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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Got the refurbished batteries installed late evening. kinda goofed as I didn't pay attention to which side the positive posts were on. both of these were backwards. Luckily I was had enough cable length to get the connected using some top to side post adapters. I didn't feel like cutting off the copper ring terminals. drove the truck into town and filled the tank, noticed the PS fluid was low and there had been a wet spot on the concrete below the gear box, so while I was in town I picked up a bottle of steering stop leak. dumped that in hoping it will swell up the pitman seal some.

The fella at the battery store recommended me getting a battery trickle charger to keep them charged and explained to me that letting the truck sit weeks at a time is what most likely killed the batteries. the old ones wouldn't even take a charge anymore! I have one that only puts out 1.2 amps but IDK if that is enough for a dual battery setup. I might hard wire it into the truck at some point so I just have to plug it in like the block heater. maybe even tie it into the plug for the block heater and add a thermostat for the heater so it's only on when it gets cold.

I also need to order a cord for the 93's block heater hoping it's good. cord is missing.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Got the refurbished batteries installed late evening. kinda goofed as I didn't pay attention to which side the positive posts were on. both of these were backwards. Luckily I was had enough cable length to get the connected using some top to side post adapters. I didn't feel like cutting off the copper ring terminals. drove the truck into town and filled the tank, noticed the PS fluid was low and there had been a wet spot on the concrete below the gear box, so while I was in town I picked up a bottle of steering stop leak. dumped that in hoping it will swell up the pitman seal some.

The fella at the battery store recommended me getting a battery trickle charger to keep them charged and explained to me that letting the truck sit weeks at a time is what most likely killed the batteries. the old ones wouldn't even take a charge anymore! I have one that only puts out 1.2 amps but IDK if that is enough for a dual battery setup. I might hard wire it into the truck at some point so I just have to plug it in like the block heater. maybe even tie it into the plug for the block heater and add a thermostat for the heater so it's only on when it gets cold.

I also need to order a cord for the 93's block heater hoping it's good. cord is missing.
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I got one of these for My four wheeler.
Every time I wanted, or needed, to use it the battery was dead.
Have not had that problem since I got this.

 
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Big T said:
You will need two trickle chargers for the 6.5. Get one that automatically shuts down once charged.
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That's the issue I found with the automatic charger I bought a few months ago from the jungle site. it puts out max of 10 amps but once it reaches full charge it shuts down and doesn't turn back on until it's disconnected and reconnected. I had left it on the 95 trying to keep the batteries up before I found out they were dieing. couple days later went out to find them dead and the charger still connected with the display showing full/complete! Learned then that that one won't float them when fully charged!

Here is the one that shuts off and won't float them.
 
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Today in between the rain showers I decided to toy with the block heater on the 93. instead of ordering a replacement electric cord for it, I rigged up one of those two prong plugs I had from an old radio. found that the pins on the block heater fit perfectly into the cord after I split and separated them to make them a little further apart from each other. used my ohm meter on the 95 to get a base reading on a working block heater, read 28 ohm's.

measured the one in the 93 and it read 25 ohms. connected it to power and it seems to be working! yay! IDK if it needs the third pin for the ground, but at least now I know the block heater works, I know now I can just order the right cord for it and not need to replace the block heater too.

left it connected the rest of the day. later tonight I went out and fired it up and it started much easier in 50 degree temps. sad thing is now for whatever reason my heater hot/cold control went on the fritz now, we were going to head out for a dinner date tonight in it but I couldn't get any heat out of the vents and the digital display for the temp would just flash at me. ended up taking the 95 out for the drive tonight!

if the rain permits tomorrow, I will look at the heater control, I suspect the stepper motor in the dash went out.
 
Big T said:
You will need two trickle chargers for the 6.5. Get one that automatically shuts down once charged.
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I'm actually tempted to take this one I recently bought apart and see what limits it's 1.2 amps. I only paid $6 for it on their sale but now are $9.

I think it's just a simple bridge rectifier converting wall power to DC and then a two stage voltage regulator inside. it's as small as a tape measure and too light to have the weight of any transformer inside it. if it can be modified to push maybe 5 amps I think one will work for the two batteries, just as long as it doesn't start to boil them. used it and it seems to charge up to 14.5v and then shuts down and floats at about 13v continuous.
 
Parked the 93 (black truck) in the back today. Might be parking it for the duration of the winter months if not longer. with the recent hard to start, I'm not sure if it's an issue with GP's or just that the engine is so far wore out it's showing it's difficulty in the cooler temps. I know it has Bosch duraterm GP's installed, not sure if those are self regulating or not. I have them on a 8 second timer which is not long enough for it to start and run. in the last week I have been having to let the 8 second timer do it's thing on top of using the overide button for another 8-10 seconds. today around lunch time and being it's 56 degrees outside, I had to do this for it to fire up, when it started it shook some and had a terrible smell of raw fuel from the tail pipe. after a few seconds it cleared up and ran fine.

I need to diagnose this to see if it's GP's or low compression from old and wore out. Might even be injector issues too, have no idea how many miles are on them or if they were already used when they were installed. rather than risk damaging the engine even more I feel like it's time to park it till I can put my finger on it.

last winter when I brought it home, once I got it running it wasn't this hard to start. Could also be the starter cranking too slow too, it has a regular auto parts starter on it unlike my 95 having a powermaster.

Been thinking more about waiting till around spring time and getting setup to pull the motor and see what I can do , finding out if it's worth doing a ring job on. If it's not cracked too badly I'll most likely end up doing a bell hone and fresh rings, not sure if gapless rings would be cost effective or not without a full rebuild.
 
My 95 has lasted me 4 going on 5 years now and is still a good running truck, has it's flaws like eating steering parts and the starter mount on the block. AC compressor I think has finally gone fubar, I recharged it right before the weather changed, now it's completely empty. Been thinking about trying to find the brackets and pulley for a 96+ system so I can run a different style compressor and get rid of the pancake one that doesn't last. I'm sure I'll be needing it for the defroster function as winter comes on.

This would move the alternator to the passenger side and allow a better compressor to mount on the drivers side. Not sure if any of the same brackets are used on gasser models or not.
 
Attempted to install new PowerMaster Starter in the ‘94 K2500 Suburban. Existing battery lead is 40” and that is too short as the attachment lug is located on the underside of the starter and more towards the rear of the truck. Need a new 48” battery cable and nothing that was open had something with ring terminals in 2 gauge. Had to order it online from Napa and it will arrive Thursday, so this will become a next weekend finish on this job. Very frustrating.
 
Big T said:
Attempted to install new PowerMaster Starter in the ‘94 K2500 Suburban. Existing battery lead is 40” and that is too short as the attachment lug is located on the underside of the starter and more towards the rear of the truck. Need a new 48” battery cable and nothing that was open had something with ring terminals in 2 gauge. Had to order it online from Napa and it will arrive Thursday, so this will become a next weekend finish on this job. Very frustrating.
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You can’t lie to us… we know you enjoy the small challenges 😂
 
Will L. said:
You can’t lie to us… we know you enjoy the small challenges 😂
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Just been on a streak here with bad parts out the box (power steering pump and encoder motor) and now this. Nothing going to form.

I do have 4 of our 5 vehicles up and running, available for use. That salvage transmission with 43K miles is working perfectly in the 2014 4Runner, best thing I ever did. Wife just drown it down from Montana to SoCal and rolled past 369K miles. The engine in the ‘99 is purring and it’s very strong. I need to repair or replace the driver’s side window regulator.

Wife just drove the 2014 4Runner down from Montana to SoCal. She went through California and picked up a driver’s seat for it that I had purchased from a salvager in Roseville. Air bag is blown out of the seat back, but our existing seat back is fine. Our seat bottom is worn. I will swap seat backs and get the seat warmer out of the existing seat bottom into the salvage seat bottom. $125 and I will have a good seat for her again.

IMG_6618.jpegIMG_6619.jpegIMG_6621.jpegIMG_6622.jpegIMG_6620.jpeg
 
Big T said:
Just been on a streak here with bad parts out the box (power steering pump and encoder motor) and now this. Nothing going to form.

I do have 4 of our 5 vehicles up and running, available for use. That salvage transmission with 43K miles is working perfectly in the 2014 4Runner, best thing I ever did. Wife just drown it down from Montana to SoCal and rolled past 369K miles. The engine in the ‘99 is purring and it’s very strong. I need to repair or replace the driver’s side window regulator.

Wife just drove the 2014 4Runner down from Montana to SoCal. She went through California and picked up a driver’s seat for it that I had purchased from a salvager in Roseville. Air bag is blown out of the seat back, but our existing seat back is fine. Our seat bottom is worn. I will swap seat backs and get the seat warmer out of the existing seat bottom into the salvage seat bottom. $125 and I will have a good seat for her again.

View attachment 91135View attachment 91136View attachment 91137View attachment 91138View attachment 91139
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My cousin lives at Citrus heights and races stock cars at the Roseville speedway.
He usually, most times takes first, once ina while second and seldom 3rd.
 
was snooping on the web at work today and found out Harbor Freight had their diesel compression tester on clearance! got off work and ran to snag one up. Now I have most of the tools I need to see the condition of the engine in the 93. also can do a compression test on the 6.2 too.

1733793672174.png
 
dbrannon79 said:
was snooping on the web at work today and found out Harbor Freight had their diesel compression tester on clearance! got off work and ran to snag one up. Now I have most of the tools I need to see the condition of the engine in the 93. also can do a compression test on the 6.2 too.

View attachment 91140
Click to expand...
Does it have the glow plug adapter for our 6.5 and 6.2s?

When I bought mine,- not HF, many years ago, I had to buy that adapter separately
 
Yes, I verified that it has the right adapter. it's a 10mm x 1.0 thread it also has the adapter for testing though the injector hole.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Might be a silly question, but how is a cylinder leak down test done? I assume it's what it sounds like, pressurizing the cylinders with air and seeing how fast it bleeds off?
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Correct, pressurize the cylinder, ball valve shut off air watch the gauge drop you can buy or build them , I built one I don't remember the outlet office size. .090 if I remember correctly. I filled the outlet with jb weld and then drilled it out. I did it on my LS
 
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