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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Will L. said:
I been using this one for 30 years now…as in same one has never failed.
www.harborfreight.com

100 Amp, 6/12V Battery Load Tester

Amazing deals on this 100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com

Possible on sale till end of Monday- not sure
Click to expand...
I have a Snap On unit that looks a little more fancy but same principle.
Along with the load testing, after it is accomplished to satisfaction, if the battery proves to be borderline to bad, then I like to use a hydrometer and check each cell.
Dont know why, battery needs replacing regardless of what each cell tests to. 🤷😹
 
Got the GP system figured out.
When I was reconnecting wires to the battery side of the underhood fuse box battery terminal, I missed getting the GP wire hooked.
Did a repair on that wire and now all is good.
This is the second fire up of the new enjun.
Piece of plywood next to the upper manifold for the just in case of a run away enjun.
After hooking the GP solenoid back to battery, the first fire up was just as quick but with a LOT of smoke.
I do have the exhaust fan near the ceiling going full bore. 🫣😹
 
That’s the conclusion I came to. A person can try to do the electrical pulse thing and try to rejuvenate an old battery. Seen people do that then drain the acid and put in new acid as an attempt. Either way doesn’t matter if you know which it is unless you plan to try scrubbing the plates inside somehow or trying to wedge a chunk of plastic between them if shorting. Never seen that done just theorizing.
Either way the wazoo tester doesn’t actually help me save a toasted battery so why spend the big $ on it?
Low acid = add water or replace all acid and no tool needed to tell that
Low charge = charge it
Unit toast= replace it
Maybe there is more to recovering old batteries than I know, but I never had a tool guy or mechanic show me so I use the basic load tester & move on.

At work we have a wazoo multi thousand dollar tester that is for massive battery banks and records the condition & history of up to thousands of batteries. It can tell you for example # 127 out 300 is failing and at what rate so you can check those connections and test that one battery separately. But it still can’t tell you how to save that battery. So it is a labor saving device for diagnostics.

But last time we used it, there was a problem in the battery bank. One guy went to get it and I pulled out my fluke 87. 10 minutes later he came back and I already identified which battery it was. Removed and cleaned connections. Retested and new the agm battery was toast, Being on a constant charger and was getting proper power to it. He wanted to learn the wazoo tool so in 20 minutes he set it up and found the bad battery. If he had used it before he could have found it in 5 minutes what took me 10. He is a better sparky than me so doing it old school way probably could have done it in 9 minutes. We both have been puzzled why the tool was ever bought. Maybe if you had some kid just out of highschool using it they would save a lot of time? But no one inexperienced should be messing around with that kind of voltage in DC. Things go wrong at the speed of light. There’s no “oops I arced my 9/16 wrench”. The whole wrench goes BOOM arc flash and dude goes to the hospital, and with any luck is just dead before hitting the ground instead of suffering in the burn ward 20 days before dying.
So only trained people doing it is the only way still. But a previous boss thought the tool was cool I guess. At least he wasn’t a cheapskate boss and willing to try tools for his workers.
 
Always nice to hear it back to running.
Good planning on the board to stop possible runaway. My plan is to buy a cable action throttle body from ebay. Add basically a choke cable to it permanently mounted in dash so a pull of the cable blocks all airflow. Should cost under $100 and take a day of building/ installing to have one work. I was hung up for years on doing one of the automatic ones that reads rpm and self closes. Years later I still don’t have it because of cost. So in with the pull cable.
 
MrMarty51 said:
While at the JY, sometime, if You happen across about a 95, how much older IDK, and it has the PS pump with the regular old fashioned hose connector and valve on the back of the PS pump, I will pay You dearly, in cash, for that set.
The JY, only one, over here, has a love affair with their GM trucks, and especially the 6.2 and 6.5 units and they are not willing to depart with any piece nor portion there of.
They have three suburbans, with roof racks, I called about buying a roof rack, nope, we dont have any suburbans and we dont have roof racks for them.
I have managed to buy a window from them for the 08 Maliblue but thats been the extent of it.
Oh yeah, they will allow not one person into their yard. Dont even ask.
Click to expand...
I have a valve,spring, and fitting from a pump here in my spare parts bin. is that what your looking for?
 
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This is one I would like. it tells you exactly what cca the battery can output.

www.harborfreight.com

12V Digital Battery and System Tester

Amazing deals on this 12V Digital Battery And System Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com

The one I used to have back in the day was this one. worked really well you set the dial to the CA or CCA the battery was rated for and connected the leads. it had settings for checking alternators too.

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went out this morning and checked the two batteries I have in the truck again. I had left both the spare I had and the new other one disconnected, the spare showed 12.56v and the new went down to 8v. pulled the now deemed bad battery out and checked with Advance where I bought them (finally found the receipt where they were purchased on 7-24-2021. inquired with them to see if there was any pro-rated thing on them since they are 4 months out of the 3 year replacement. they said nope, warranty goes to 0 after the 3 years. Bummer, used to be back in the day places gave you a "free" replacement period and then would still be able to pro-rate for up to another year on them. I guess that's a no-more!

this was my first go round the tree with Die Hard Gold batteries. I had been praising wally world batteries for their no questions asked warranty but then they got smart and started getting hard to get replacements. now a days warranty isn't worth it even to buy or pay extra for it. only place that is still good is harbor freight around here!
 
Connected up the one spare battery back on the 95 truck and wrapped the positive cable end on the drivers side with a red rag, climbed in and she fired right up. I could tell she was cranking on one battery by the slightly slower starter but at least she started. I will leave it connected up and see if this battery drains out by tomorrow after work.

Gonna work on sealing up the drain for the 93 truck CKO provent. the bolt I shoved in the hose still leaks, bought a little brass ball valve that has 3/8 hose barbs on each end. add a short piece of hose to the other side too so it's easier to drain it too.
 
well, got the ball valve installed on the 93 for the provent drain. I also wanted to figure a way to keep road grime from getting into the end of the hose. my previous drain setup had a soda bottle ziptied to the frame where I had drilled a hole in the cap and made it a tight fit on the hose.

The cap was still on the hose so I ended up cutting the top off another soda bottle and used hot glue to affix it's cap to the neck of the bottle where I cut it. it's a very tight fit so it's not coming off and should seal up nicely. fitted it to the cap on the hose, now the hose should stay clean and leak free.

I still use a soda bottle to drain into then pour back into the engine and do this weekly. I might end up sliding the cap further up on the hose and cut it off closer to the frame, but for now this should work. topped off the oil and will monitor how much I collect and loose. Once I can get to the valve cover leak, then I will be able to see just how much the engine is burning through the rings and from blow by.

Just for fun I'm thinking of grabbing a smaller bottle at the store, drink the refreshment within, then mark it in ounce increments so I can measure what comes out when I drain the provent.

IMG_5691.jpg

IMG_5692.jpg

IMG_5693.jpg
 
at least hopefully I can park in the driveway without leaving a mark LOL. I had noticed it was leaking from the drain for a couple of weeks, then the valve I had on there fell off! was a cheap plastic irrigation valve. everywhere I went I was leaving it's "mark" Ol' Smokey was here! LOL.
 
jrsavoie said:
They were a lot more expensive back in the day.

I have another similar tester of the same age. It was similarly priced.

This looks like my other battery tester.

www.harborfreight.com

135 Amp, 6, 12V Battery and System Load Tester

Amazing deals on this 135 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com
Click to expand...
Thats an exact copy if the Snap On tester that I have.
 
They do get cko stuff, and some that is third party mfr that builds some for snappy and some for others. If unaware of examples- search HF jack same as snappy.

The original blue oval LED was same exact mfr that made them for MAC when I was Mac tool guy.
 
Beginning the cooler tube run.
I decided to replace that big bad bend with a 90* 1/8th” pipe to 1/4” tube elbow.
IMG_1315.jpeg
Running the tubes over the top. After they are coiled then I’ll tuck them in nice and low, out of sight.
IMG_1314.jpeg
The next portion will be boring through the FW to get the plastic tubes into the cab. Seems quite some time ago I explored that option and things is sort of tight under the dash. I’ll make a big enough hole so any future gauges or wire can be poked through with no problems.
 
Went out this morning after leaving the 95 sit for the last 4 days. Tried staring it up, I’ve never had so much trouble getting it to run! Battery was still up but had to put the booster on and it took probably 10 sessions of running the GP’s and cranking to finally get it to fire!! Each time it would try but not run. While cranking I was looking at the clear return line and didn’t see any air. When it finally started I expected to see loads of smoke and rattles but it was like the truck just woke up and said “oh, you want me to run”!! Mind you it was 45 degrees out, when it finally busted off it just fired up and ran smooth like nothing happened!!
 
Picked up a pair of refurbished batteries as a place a couple friends recommended. Cost me $65 ea with a 3 month warranty, better than what I had expected. Both are top post so now I finally get to convert from the factory side post cables it has now. Gonna do that later today so I can start driving it around. Apparently the 95 doesn’t like sitting for too long.. LOL
 
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