What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

[Will L.]

There is a wide selection-
Here is the best comparison video I’ve seen on them.
A couple thingsI learned - the cheap ones fail no matter who makes them.
Differenct brands have massively different results.

In the video below I add NO VALUE to how wide, how thick, or what strength lifting something with it. Something not compared is the safety wire clamp method.
Using 2 mm actual aircraft rated stainless wire double wrapped has held ridiculous pressure without failure. But it’s annoying to use and takes a special tool to do it right.
Analysis paralysis potential here.

 

[MrMarty51]

Well dang.
Constant “fizzle” sounds like air intrusion like why you have a clear line out the ip return.

I think you have a loose fitting, bad hose clamp, split hose, etc on the suction side of the system.

It is possible a bad pump can do that but you might have has $7 worth of life in the old pump.

Watch for it in the new set up and if the bubble are there- thats a problem without sucking air before the pump.

Dexron3 is generally a better choice than the clear power steering fluid. Fully synthetic is better yet but the cost isn’t generally justified.

IDT that there is suction on the return hose to the pump. I believe it is a free flowing system.
There is no vacuum applied to the reservoir O-Ring to the housing
I think the main air intrusion might be at the front seal.
But that is just My theee-O-reeee.

 

[Will L.]

It’s technically a return circuit. Aka low pressure side not the high pressure side.

 

[ak diesel driver]

One of the things no one seems to test for is long term holding ability. Spring clamps shine there. How many times have you had to tighten a screw type clamp?

 

[Will L.]

One of the things no one seems to test for is long term holding ability. Spring clamps shine there. How many times have you had to tighten a screw type clamp?

That is a place the constant tension and the safety wire clamp methods shine.

 

[dbrannon79]

did the last couple of rust fixes today on the 93. on the drinkers front door pillar where it goes up the side of the windshield was starting to rust pretty bad. I didn't realize just how bad it was until I started with the wire wheel cleaning it off! it was badly pitted under the paint both on the outside and inside where the door rides the windshield lip seal. ended up using a wire cup crush on the grinder to get most if it all cleaned up. then used the rotary sander to smooth it all out. it will need something like some spot putty to build it back up but for now I just spitz a few coats of black rattle can in the area then topped that off with some rattle can clear. after that cures I might attempt wet sanding and polishing to see what it does.

while I was at it, since the hood shines so well compared to the upper areas of the fenders, I spitz some of that rattle clear over the tops of the fenders just as a test to see what it does. I will attempt wet sanding and polishing that later in a few days.

 

[MrMarty51]

Cleaned some more bolts and parts.
Power Master starter arrived today.
Didnt take it out of the box, left it sealed up.
The extended engine harness is suppose to be in tomorrows mail delivery.
That’ll be interesting, seeing the harness over the top of the intake manifold.

 

[Big T]

this was a quart can of rustolium gloss black I mixed 8:4:1 with some mineral spirits and hardener and used a hvlp gun from harbor freight. sprayed out in the back yard under my canopy. not the best I know plus I skipped out on some steps too. laid on about 4 coats so I could "play" with it.

later on I might come back and try guide coating and block sanding to get it looking better. I still need to wet sand the hood and use the polisher make it look better. there is a lot of over spray, the wind picked up while I was painting it. roof came out better than the hood even with all the rust pitting in the metal! Ive got one more spot of rust to tend to on the passenger door up on the front pillar yet. it's the worse area, there is a plastic lining running on the inside of that area of the door where it seals to the windshield pillar I need to remove. it's rusted badly under it in one area. I'm hoping I can clean that area up and use some kind of filler to make it smooth for the seal.

626K views · 13K reactions | Turned out decent for my extremely horrible body work lol. Soon will be heading to the body shop to get the body 100% straight and a WAY better satin paint job…….. #c10trucks #loweredtrucks #c10 #chevytrucks #squarebody #

Turned out decent for my extremely horrible body work lol. Soon will be heading to the body shop to get the body 100% straight and a WAY better satin paint job…….. #c10trucks #loweredtrucks #c10...

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The Rustoleum OG ^^^

 

[MrMarty51]

626K views · 13K reactions | Turned out decent for my extremely horrible body work lol. Soon will be heading to the body shop to get the body 100% straight and a WAY better satin paint job…….. #c10trucks #loweredtrucks #c10 #chevytrucks #squarebody #

Turned out decent for my extremely horrible body work lol. Soon will be heading to the body shop to get the body 100% straight and a WAY better satin paint job…….. #c10trucks #loweredtrucks #c10...

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State used to buy the ACE brand oil base paint in Omaha orange.
They had some equipment I was assigned to paint.
Sand blasted off the snow plows and used that ACE brand oil base and mixed it like I would the professional body shop stuff.
IIRC, 60% paint, 40% reducer and a couple of glup glups of hardner.
Over looking the runs, dry spots and all the dirt from painting in one of the truck stalls, didnt look too bad.

 

[dbrannon79]

I think if I had used some filler primer or had laid the paint on thicker I would have been able to fill all the sanding gouges to make a really nice flat shiny paint job. I'm in the learning process of painting! as with just about everything I do nowadays LOL get out there and learn from mistakes even at my age!

I'm wondering if next time I use a flat or satin paint and then go back over it with tractor supply clear coat it will last a few years. single stage paints tend to get dull after a year or two in the sun. adding a heavy layer of clear over it would help with this and allow leway on buffing and polishing. at least on the budget side of thing.

 

[MrMarty51]

Hole saw seal driver.


Did a nice job.
And the spring was still in position on the backside.


Time to lift.


In the hole.


Still a lot of hookups to do, bolts to tighten, fuel system to sort, then it will be ready to fire.

 

[Big T]

Aisin 750F from the 2014 4Runner. Probably have it rebuilt for use the next time. This unit went 365.6K miles. Damn good transmission.

 

[Big T]

Pulled the power steering pump. Took 40 minutes this time. Last time it took 2 hours. Waiting for the bypass fitting to arrive tomorrow so I can reinstall. Definitely had the seal in the right position on the oriface.

 

[dbrannon79]

Well I'm not proud of this invention, but, well here goes.... I have noticed that I'm only catching about 1/2 the amount of oil in the CKO provent 200 on the 93 with all the blow by it has. today I decided to try something. I've done this in the past on gassers and seen several others do this though the other end wasn't getting fed back into the engine like on a 6.5. I cobbled in a gallon oil jug inline from the outlet of the provent before it goes back into the engine just to see if it also catches any oil.

so how dose that saying go... desperate times call for hillbilly matters.... I even made it hillbilly since I didn't have enough hose to run so I used an old scrap piece of CPVC I had laying in the yard!!

 

[dbrannon79]

While I was at it, after I had replaced the rubber in the steering shaft, that took a lot of slop out of the steering. I noticed the steering wheel was off just a bit. I pulled it in and did a poor man's alignment on it. leveled the truck using my torpedo level, then realized the drinkers side wheel was a little pigeon toed where the top was too far in and bottom out. ended up moving the caster/camber bolts front and back on that wheel all the way out just to get it close. I think the lower A arm bushing are possibly causing this. straightened out the wheel and adjusted the toe. this will have to do until I get around to replacing the a arm bushing, I want to go with the poly kit on this truck.

 

[Will L.]

Well I'm not proud of this invention, but, well here goes.... I have noticed that I'm only catching about 1/2 the amount of oil in the CKO provent 200 on the 93 with all the blow by it has. today I decided to try something. I've done this in the past on gassers and seen several others do this though the other end wasn't getting fed back into the engine like on a 6.5. I cobbled in a gallon oil jug inline from the outlet of the provent before it goes back into the engine just to see if it also catches any oil.

so how dose that saying go... desperate times call for hillbilly matters.... I even made it hillbilly since I didn't have enough hose to run so I used an old scrap piece of CPVC I had laying in the yard!!

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Nothing wrong with hill billy- but you are about to become bill stuck in the hills.

That plastic jug and cpvc withstanding the heat of that oil and not melting-
Nope.

Replace that cpvc with metal. Cpvc has a service temperature of 200f. You are about to create your own oil slick dispersed by the fan.

Idk what plastic the jug is- but they sure aren’t thick. Your idea is ok, the material is the failure about to occur.

If you do something else to replace the jug and stuff it full of stainless steel scrubbers (not sos pads with the soap) and a divider then it won’t help.

If you want- pm me your address and I can loan you my actual provent to try - see if there is any difference in performance from the housing. Did you ever install the actual provent filter, or still using the cko filter in it?

 

[dbrannon79]

I figured I would try this for the week going back n forth to work. my short trip shouldn't cause that much heat build up. I still have the CKO stainless mesh filter in the provent and I also stuffed scrubbers loosely in the 1" clear hose coming off the tuna can from the valve cover to the provent. that part seems to be helping.

I haven't wanted to spend much more on it with the engine and this is just to see if the CKO provent combined with the scrubbers in the hose is catching all it can. I do have valve covers leaking some along with the cam sensor oil pump drive also leaking oil. I have thought about pulling that cam sensor oil pump drive thing and swapping it with the oil pump drive that's on the 6.2 which is a plug without the sensor but I don't want to disturb that plastic retainer down on the oil pump. I was told that if that brakes I would have to pull the pan to replace it.

if you guys think I would be find pulling and swapping out the oil pump drives (where the distributor goes on a gasser) to stop that oil leak I will go for it.

so I know it leaks oil along with drinking it. just want to know how fast it's getting past the CKO provent vs how bad it's leaking the oil.

 

[dbrannon79]

If the jug does catch some extra oil, I was thinking about spending the extra $20 for a generic coolant overflow bottle and run hoses to it in this fashion with adding a pot scrubber or filling the bottle with loose foam like you find in cheap air filters. the foam is usually large fiber mesh type and won't impeed air flow just helps with filtering dust with wet with oil in those applications.

 

[Will L.]

The cko filters do almost nothing in the provent style housing. The housing was designed to help the REAL PROVENT filter work properly. The cko thing is lucky to capture 2%. Not buying the real provent filter makes the cko housing a waste of money & time.
You have gone down the rabbit hole and are now digging your own tunnels.
Take half the time you would spend experimenting and read online. You can find dozens of examples quickly.

The long hose theory- in our plastics to fuel plant we had oils in a vapor form. It was under 3psi causing it to move along through a pipe not much larger diameter than you have. It traveled about 250 yards to the separation tower. 99.999% of it got there in vapor form. Sooo, yeah… other than where you build the pressure differential device that is needed (think a/c orifice) the only reason for pipe or hoses should be to where the device fits.

The function of the pressure differential device is to rapidly cool the oil vapors. What did ours do? Wen through a chiller coil (commercial ac unit) since we couldn’t make it go from a high pressure to a low pressure and greatly expand into a large volume area- which is what the provent filter does on a micro level, that none of the competitors do as well.

On heavy equipment where the engines are insanely expensive to rebuild and the most effective one I saw burn through massive amounts of oil- the second best thing to the huge provents for them is when guy diy a collection chamber using an a/c evaporator. They literally install a window banger ac unit. Cut the lines to the evaporator and make a container the evaporator fits in. Solder on copper lines to the new extension.
The oil fumes get pulled across the ac coil and cooled while of course going through a sea of stainless steel wool. Throw in a suitcase honda to power it and good to go. He reported he already had the ac unit and generator. So cost was minimal, mostly time. He said about a year later he got the big provent and it outperformed his diy system. He made the jump when one of the soldered joints at the coil failed and he couldn’t recharge because obviously the lines were oil contaminated.

If you see buggs bunny in the rabbit hole- ask him which way to turn at Albuquerque.

 

[dbrannon79]

I will probably remove all that hose and bottle tonight. on the way to work this morning as soon as the TCC locked up at about 50 MPH the engine went to a loud continuous clatter as if the timing went way off. I had to back off the throttle a couple of times within about a 30 second window to get the clattering to go away and run normally. this is something this truck has not done before.