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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Anyone have any ideas as to what might have caused this constant clatter when the TCC turned on? the engine wasn't fully warm yet as I had only driven maybe 2 miles into my trip to work. outdoor temp was around 60 degrees this morning leaving. the noise sounded as if the timing went way advanced or retard. I wasn't accelerating too heavy so the engine wasn't under a lot of load. checked my mirrors to see if there was any smoke and didn't see anything. I doubt me adding this bottle inline on the provent hose caused this.

Now in the past before I installed the provent, on occasion the engine would randomly sound like this for only a split second even when not under load. I had shrugged this off to thinking too much oil was making it's way into the intake and must have pooled up then the engine swallowing it. again these random instances would only last a split second and was random. after installing the provent, it hadn't occurred since until this morning this escapade lasted about 30 seconds. of course when it started, I let off the throttle, this caused the TCC to disengage. when accelerating again the clatter continued before I felt the TCC turn back on.

it didn't act like it was trying to take off or seem to loose power, just got loud and really clattery.
 
what can be done or why is it advancing timing? is this a problem in the IP trying to warn me? it normally runs relatively quiet, quieter than my 95 runs as far as the diesel sounds. very quiet and smooth acceleration too. you almost forget your driving a diesel when your on the open road!
 
well the drive home went un-eventful. got home and then checked the jug and hoses for any residue of oil. Note, I did wash the jug out with some diesel and when I looked inside, low n behold there was about an ounc or so of diesel in the bottom! it was clean though. I pulled the hose off the outlet of the provent and looked inside, it was dry with no residue of oil with a 12 mile round trip today. no sense in going further with it anyway as Will pointed out.

pulled all that hillbilly mess off and connected the provent back direct to the turbo boot like it was....

I am going to chalk this up to the extra oil loss to external leaks. just need some advice on if I can safely pull the cam sensor oil pump drive off and swap it for the oil pump drive on the other engine to stop that leak.
 
@ak diesel driver I believe you are talking about this part of the IP in this video. time starts at 1:32 and continues till 6:58. I do know the little plunger behind the advance lever does not return when the engine is off if pushed in. I discovered this when I adjusted the piece on the throttle shaft. I had adjusted it since it was not contacting the lever until about 1/2 throttle a while back. I had compared it to the IP on the 6.2 engine and set it accordingly. this adjustment made a major difference on how the engine is much quieter under acceleration.


I'm not sure I want to attempt to pull the IP and mess with this in the way this guy did. I wonder if it did have water in the IP if over time that water would evaporate out with heat and running where I could possibly fill the filter with ATF or some other oil that would help clean it, work that plunger pin and lever without pulling the IP and then let the engine run flushing the ATF out with fuel.

Maybe @Will L. or @Rockabillyrat can help with their vast knowledge on this and the symptoms I witnessed this morning as well.
 
Pulled the power steering pump and returned to Napa. They will have a new one to me in 2 days. The box says Hecho in China. If the next one does not work, I will request reimbursement and go with an AC Delco unit.

On the bright side, set a new record of 30 minutes to pull the pump. If I had a knowledgeable assist handing me tools, I could get that down to 20 to 25 minutes.
 
Big T said:
Pulled the power steering pump and returned to Napa. They will have a new one to me in 2 days. The box says Hecho in China. If the next one does not work, I will request reimbursement and go with an AC Delco unit.

On the bright side, set a new record of 30 minutes to pull the pump. If I had a knowledgeable assist handing me tools, I could get that down to 20 to 25 minutes.
Click to expand...
I'd skip the frustration and go ACDELCO now.
 
Big T said:
Pulled the power steering pump and returned to Napa. They will have a new one to me in 2 days. The box says Hecho in China. If the next one does not work, I will request reimbursement and go with an AC Delco unit.

On the bright side, set a new record of 30 minutes to pull the pump. If I had a knowledgeable assist handing me tools, I could get that down to 20 to 25 minutes.
Click to expand...
And little Ralphie hanging onto that hub cap of lug nuts, sends it flying, oh fugggggg, except it was the real thing. 🫣😹😹😹
 
I have the passenger side half completed to some degree on my 96 Chevy truck.Heres how it looks with the red prothane control arm bushings in place.It does have a new eccentric bolt kit in place too.

Both sides will get new cv axles as well along with tie rods,pitman arm,etc.Still waiting on FedEx to arrive with the dust seals so I can install the steering knuckle.I’ve had a lot of these types of trucks apart in the past and many of them have those seals missing altogether.

I also have new rotors that are slotted and drilled for the same truck.Those came from Amazon $155 delivered.
 

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dieselolds said:
I have the passenger side half completed to some degree on my 96 Chevy truck.Heres how it looks with the red prothane control arm bushings in place.It does have a new eccentric bolt kit in place too.

Both sides will get new cv axles as well along with tie rods,pitman arm,etc.Still waiting on FedEx to arrive with the dust seals so I can install the steering knuckle.I’ve had a lot of these types of trucks apart in the past and many of them have those seals missing altogether.

I also have new rotors that are slotted and drilled for the same truck.Those came from Amazon $155 delivered.
Click to expand...
So question.... with the prothane bushings, once they are tightened up does the a-arm flop around like the bushings are a bearing of sorts or is it like the rubber ones where they have to be in a loaded position before tightened?
 
Right now the bolts are somewhat tight and when I attempt to move the control arm up and down the bushings remain stationary with a smooth movement of the control arm.I greased the bushings on the outside before pushing them into position.They went into place pretty easily.You do have to reuse the inner steel sleeves that the bolt kit passes through along with the thin washers on either side of both bushings.

So you are right.This right now is acting like a roller bearing.
 
Wheres a good place online to purchase things like injection pump take outs from military vehicles? Or even a source to get parts to rebuild one. I figured I might start looking at prices vs sending one to someone to have re-done. doing a little searching online all I can find is one source that wants a little over $600 for one. for that price used I might want to attempt my hand at opening up the one on the 6.2 and doing it my self with the help of some youtube teachings.
 
Guessing Steel Soldiers would be a good starting point. Your 12v parts would go onto the military ones that are 24v. But make sure you get one with a TPS.

There is a list here iirc which ip delivers what fuel amount. If not, just search the web for it. Have the list ready before you start searching because you might find something that looks like a smokin deal then find out it is for a 110hp 6.2 that only hits 2200rpm.

There are things you can diy to bring up the volume of fuel if needed without going crazy. But look for one in the right ballpark.

There are government auction sites but you have to discover them and check frequently, being patient but know you might never find one … bigger $$ savings but bigger risk of not getting one.
 
Question for you DB2 guys... something I was thinking about today was the little solenoid for the timing advance and the fuel outlet with the glass ball thingy in it. correct me if I am wrong. when you apply power to the advance solenoid on the top cover doesn't it deadhead the return causing the case pressure to rise in the pump which then forces the advance piston to full tilt?

I started thinking about this today because I have this solenoid disconnected on the IP in the 93, I was remembering how it ran when I applied power to it. same rattly sound as it's been randomly making while on the road. with that solenoid disconnected could there be something else in the IP that would also make it go full advance?

when I was replacing the shutoff solenoid on the IP for the 6.2 I noticed with the top off that advance solenoid plunger just flops back n fourth with no resistance. made me think about the IP on the 92 wondering if something in there is "bumping" it or if it could move while the truck is in motion.

I did swap out the top covers between these pumps due to the one in the 93 was all 24v and I did not like the inline solenoid it was using to turn off the engine.

tell me how this advance solenoid works in the top cover please.

I found this tidbit bit is still confusing to me how or what this solenoid actually does.

some questions about the DB-2 timing advance solinoid.

What does the timing advance solenoid actually do? It looks like the plunger actually connects or contacts anything in the lower part of the fuel pump. If I'm right it looks like when the solenoid is energized the plunger pushes up and either opens up the check valve on the fuel return connector...
www.steelsoldiers.com
 
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