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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

there is no chance I will end up having to pull the motor over this right? if the shaft it stuck in the top, it won't end up breaking the plastic retainer joining it to the oil pump forcing me to pull the engine? this is what I'm afraid of getting into.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Here is the current state of affairs... Maybe @Will L. or @ak diesel driver has some tips on what to do here. the top of the oil pump drive rotates easy and smooth, I can lift and feel something down lower in the block seem like it's stuck, that or the lower section is broken? I can't seem to find a good way to get a pry bar in there to get a bite on it trying to lift. all I'm doing is swapping this out for the one off the 6.2 block to stop the oil leak.

View attachment 90757

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Do you have a small gap under the oil pump drive?I was thinking you could use one of those cv axle puller tools that’s shaped like a C that guys use to pull stubborn cv axles.Thread on the slide hammer and it might do the job your looking for.

EDIT:Looks like you already have it out…lol.I was late with my response.Good job👍
 
dbrannon79 said:
Ok Now I did it! here come the worms out of the can.... Help me understand this....

I got the rod off t he drive only to find how worn it is. is this a problem?


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Looks like the hex is indeed worn.New sealed power shafts are available from
Rockauto.You’ll also need the nylon retainer that clips upon the oil pump.It prevents the shaft from being pulled upwards when removing the oil pump drive or vacuum pump units on older 6.2 engines.
 
Is that plastic retainer needed once I get the rod back in with the top part of the drive ? I pulled the rod from the other engine easily and it doesn’t have any wear

I’m working to find something to hold the rod into the upper drive so I can reinstall using the drive without the ESS sensor to fix the oil leak
 
The retainer in my opinion is only needed when you remove the oil pump drive so the oil pump shaft wont lift and fall into the oil pan or get lodged someplace where it should not be.

You could try using some heavy grease on the end of the shaft before you insert it into the oil pump drive unit.That should hold the shaft in place until you get it down into place.
 
Got it in! Me sweating bullets hoping to get it nailed while my wife was sitting in the background giggling and laughing as I said “gotta get the shaft in the hole “ and “gotta rotate the engine to get the tip in”. lol her mind was in the gutter

Went in smooth with no issues. I had a ratchet on the alternator pulley turning the crank slightly and it felt like it dropped right in.

IMG_5648.jpeg
 
you read my mind, I almost did! standing over the engine looking at it I almost forgot I had pulled it off to gain access. put it all back on and buttoned up the harness I had moved out of the way. test fired watching the gauges, oil pressure went up, checked for leaks pouring out. all seems good.

all that work just because the ESS sensor was leaking oil from the seams where it's crimped onto the drive. only other leak it has is the drinkers side rear of the valve cover. I had found the bolts loose on the captain's side, maybe tomorrow when I have better light I will see if those bolts are loose too. Not worried about a slow leak but I would like to seal it up as best I can.

I stabbed the oil pump drive with the ESS sensor back in the other engine I have on the stand just so it's back to being complete.
 
Now that all that is out of the way, I might tinker some with the cold advance on the IP. earlier today I energized it with the engine running and it didn't seem to change the way it ran. maybe there is something with it or the glass ball in the return line port messing up that might be causing the seemingly random timing advancement while driving. if I need to, I can rob the return line fitting from the other engine. iirc that glass ball acts like a check valve and also regulates internal pump pressure to around 5-10 psi. when the solenoid is energized it pushes the ball and opens the return to a free flow dropping the internal pressure to 0 which advances the timing in the pump.

I don't use the solenoid but the wires for it are just laying there disconnected.
 
Got that variable valve orifice thing removed from the PS pump and the bypass kit installed.
I even had a new O~Ring that fit the original steel pipe.
Cleaning the fluid and such from the flooring. Getting ready to go under and start unbolting enjun mounts.
I always refer to engine/enjun as a fuel fired device and a motor as being an item fueled with lectricity. 😹
Thats all for now.
 
@dbrannon79 glad you got it- just reading all this. Those lil plastic parts always scare me. Yeah that rod is a junker now. The freeplay doesn’t really hurt anything it just drives the oilmpump. The argument can be made that the freeplay will cause chatter to the oil pump gears, so maybe the oil pump only lasts 1 million miles instead of 1.1 million- haha.
But you see the part that actually gets all the wear, and experienced the negative side effects of changing it so no worries now.

@MrMarty51 yes- motor oil was originally for the things powered by shocktricity. And from there the name stuck. I tried mentioning to a judge once that the DMV (motor) shouldn’t have jurisdiction in my rig and they have no DEV department so I should be exempt. He smiled and said “nice try”. He went on something about 110mph on a 55 hiway and the cop was nice because he showed me the radar and I was almost upset the ticket couldn’t be used as proof that rig could hit 121 but he did save me a couple hundred bucks knocking it down so there’s that.

See - I was young and dumb once. Now just not young. And since it’s now a felony here to be over 100, I haven’t over 95 on the I95 in many years.
 
it was funny because that slop was what was holding the rod in the gear. the last maybe 1/4" of the rod had no wear so when it was cocked in that direction it kinda wedged its self into the oil pump drive gear! when I removed it from the drive, I had to lock the rod in my bench vice and tap on the gear with a hammer to jar it loose. it was wedged in there real good at first kinda like a bolt head about to get rounded off in a socket and getting stuck.

I could only imagine what would have happened if it did start rounding off inside the engine! oil pressure lost and you'd be hearing about another locked up engine carnage thread, don't even know if I would have found this at the culprit!
 
Will L. said:
@dbrannon79 glad you got it- just reading all this. Those lil plastic parts always scare me. Yeah that rod is a junker now. The freeplay doesn’t really hurt anything it just drives the oilmpump. The argument can be made that the freeplay will cause chatter to the oil pump gears, so maybe the oil pump only lasts 1 million miles instead of 1.1 million- haha.
But you see the part that actually gets all the wear, and experienced the negative side effects of changing it so no worries now.

@MrMarty51 yes- motor oil was originally for the things powered by shocktricity. And from there the name stuck. I tried mentioning to a judge once that the DMV (motor) shouldn’t have jurisdiction in my rig and they have no DEV department so I should be exempt. He smiled and said “nice try”. He went on something about 110mph on a 55 hiway and the cop was nice because he showed me the radar and I was almost upset the ticket couldn’t be used as proof that rig could hit 121 but he did save me a couple hundred bucks knocking it down so there’s that.

See - I was young and dumb once. Now just not young. And since it’s now a felony here to be over 100, I haven’t over 95 on the I95 in many years.
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Damn, I loved Montana when three two barrels could be opened up and made to howl, 147 was what the HP showed Me on his radar.
He checked the tires, said, please slow down some.
Ohhhh, okay. Haha 😹😹😹
No speed limit back then. When I was young and dumb and had a head of hair. 😹😹😹😹
 
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