What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

[Husker6.5]

The only extra tools I have in the Toyota 4Runner is a cordless 1/2" impact and and inflator, so my wife can change her own tire when she pops them off road. I will consider adding an electric jack. Otherwise, Toyotas don't need tools for emergency repairs.

Hit a deer or elk some time. Bet it would need emergency repairs then. Plus, you never know when an alternator or water pump will go out, or a timing belt break 5,000 miles early (daughter's 97 2.2 4cyl Camry).

 

[Big T]

Hit a deer or elk some time. Bet it would need emergency repairs then. Plus, you never know when an alternator or water pump will go out, or a timing belt break 5,000 miles early (daughter's 97 2.2 4cyl Camry).

Timing chain. Considering a bull bar for the deer. Deer are like rabbits here. Elk are around, but typically in the higher elevations.

 

[Husker6.5]

@dbrannon79, nope no clue the AAP P/N. That was over six years ago and the P/N was the least thing on my mind at the time. They may not even carry it anymore.

 

[Big T]

I have had the opposite on both the 130 and 144 units from delco remy. I never had one that didn’t break 150,000. But I only bought brand new, and I found that is a part the dealership used to beat the price from napa and other Delco Remy distributors on. Like my hummer is over 140k on the original alternator when it was built in 95.

The powermaster alternators that have been installed on upfitted rigs with tons of stereo, lights, etc. all went over 200,000. I can’t say the higher expense of the powermaster pays for itself in time, definitely more than a 33% price difference, I think they were 50% more. I haven’t priced them out in several years though. If electrical system is stock, Idk if I would get powermaster.

The lifetime warranty is always nice though, and not hard to swap. Only issue I have is of it kills batteries or electronics by over charging, all savings are lost.

I tried the Powermaster and it went like 2 years. They're over priced and shit and shipping to claim warranty is too costly. Better to have a Napa as they are everywhere. Just keep the receipt in the glove box.

 

[Husker6.5]

Timing chain. Considering a bull bar for the deer. Deer are like rabbits here. Elk are around, but typically in the higher elevations.

I was just referring the unforeseen emergencies. I know the later generation 4 cyl Toyotas, like my '05 and my ex's '10 use timing chains that the recommended guide change is 300K and chain/sprocket change at 500K.

 

[Husker6.5]

@dbrannon79 . Just logged into my account with Advanced Auto Parts and went to my saved vehicle, '98 K2500 Suburban 6.5TD VIN F, then to charging system.

This came up, and it looks like it went up by about $20 since I bought it. Looks like its in stock at the Carquest on the other side of town, but not the AAP near my house. Didn't bother to check the other 4 AAP locations in town, nor the other 3 Carquests to see if they had it in stock.

 

[Grisley1958]

Not just the 6.5. I take a travel tool kit with me in any vehicle on a road trip, having learned my lesson many years ago on a road trip with the kids in the Chevy G20 conversion van and having the water pump take a dump out on the Interstate, limping it three miles to the exit and into Cozad on a Legal Holiday Monday. Having to spend way too much money to have a local shop install a $30 NAPA water pump (they called the owner of the local NAPA to come unlock the store and pull them a water pump, the joys of rural, small town Nebraska) because I didn't have any tools with me to do it myself and the kids had to be back home for school the next morning. After that, except for rental cars, every vehicle on a road trip gets the "vacation toolbox" put in the trunk/back.

I have a Travel toolbox that I take when going on a trip. I have a lot of tools so I can keep it loaded with all the essential tools.
I used to work as a Truck/equipment mechanic so I had a big set at home, a bigger set at work and another another set on my service truck. Now I work at a Rest Home so my shop at home is overloaded with tools. Seems like the only time I have trouble on the road is the few times I've neglected to take them with.
A couple of the 6.5's I've bought (off ebay) were in Texas so I would mail down tools and extra parts,(PMD, lift pump, ect.) to my uncle or cousin down there, fly down with my wife, rent a car to get to the truck, spend a day or so checking it over and then drive it home to N.Y. Both trucks made it home (with Gods grace!) and a little tinkering along the way. That was 2008 and 2009. Both trucks are still on the road today, my oldest son has the '96 K2500 6.5, NV4500 and I just bought the other one ('95 C2500 6.5 4L80E) back from my younger son. The '96 was a farm truck that I bought for $2,500 and the '95 I paid $1,500 for. That was the extent of my Thrill seeking adventures! All my friends thought I was nuts but it was exciting to say the least!

 

[Big T]

I was just referring the unforeseen emergencies. I know the later generation 4 cyl Toyotas, like my '05 and my ex's '10 use timing chains that the recommended guide change is 300K and chain/sprocket change at 500K.

F! so I have to do this timing chain and sprocket change in 30k miles?

 

[Will L.]

F! so I have to do this timing chain and sprocket change in 30k miles?

Better find out engine details- most toy engines are combative and when their chain goes it takes out everything.
That one of the things the honda guys beat up toy guys over. Since I had both honda and toy need timing chains- it made me miss the 6.5. Made me really miss the original sbc/ bbc design.

 

[Big T]

Better find out engine details- most toy engines are combative and when their chain goes it takes out everything.
That one of the things the honda guys beat up toy guys over. Since I had both honda and toy need timing chains- it made me miss the 6.5. Made me really miss the original sbc/ bbc design.

Is replacing the timing chain on the Toyota more work than the 6.5?

 

[Will L.]

Depending on the engine. Some are easy, some are way harder.
their are some engines like certain bmw that takes $1500 in specialized tools and 85 hours book time.
Most Toyota engines are around 6 hours book time with a couple specialized tools. But forst time doing it and not being familiar with the tools, plan on 10 hours.

Ya need to do some research and decide if your just gonna send that one in vs diy.

 

[MrMarty51]

F! so I have to do this timing chain and sprocket change in 30k miles?

Guide change at 300,000 and sprocket/chain at 500,000 is what he said in the post above Yours.
It is best to have an original equipment workshop manual to be able to look up the component life span.
Wifeys 1990 4 cylinder Corolla, I think, is 70,000 for a belt job.

 

[Big T]

Depending on the engine. Some are easy, some are way harder.
their are some engines like certain bmw that takes $1500 in specialized tools and 85 hours book time.
Most Toyota engines are around 6 hours book time with a couple specialized tools. But forst time doing it and not being familiar with the tools, plan on 10 hours.

Ya need to do some research and decide if your just gonna send that one in vs diy.

I found a video on it and the tech said 10 hours book time. It looked like a royal pain in the ass. By comparison, our 6.5s are like unhooking a bra. Video is time lapse and edited to shorten, but it’s still 1 hour 30 minutes long:

 

[Big T]

Changed the O2 sensor in the catalytic converter of my ‘05 Honda Accord and cleared the code. Pretty quick and easy job.



Took the forged lower control arms for Colby’s ‘94 Suburban in to have the bushings pressed in.

Next up is replacing the IP on the ‘94 Suburban this weekend.

 

[Husker6.5]

Great. Those can be a PIA to remove sometimes if the threads have seized from years of use. The fun (not really) part on a 97 Camry is the plug on the downstream converter O2 sensor. It's under the carpet smack dab under the driver's seat where it's hard to cram an American-sized hand under there, or go through the added hassle of pulling the seat to get access. You have to snake the new plug in through a floor access hole, plug it in, then pop in the new floor plug grommet from underneath. A fun hour of contortions!

 

[Big T]

Great. Those can be a PIA to remove sometimes if the threads have seized from years of use. The fun (not really) part on a 97 Camry is the plug on the downstream converter O2 sensor. It's under the carpet smack dab under the driver's seat where it's hard to cram an American-sized hand under there, or go through the added hassle of pulling the seat to get access.

This was the downstream O2 sensor. Had previously replaced the upstream one, but could not figure out the downstream one. Then I found a video on YouTube.

The plug is under the passenger seat, but it's just 4 bolts to pull the seat. I would spend forever trying to do it blindly with the seat in place. Then 3 buttons holding the carpet down. Unplug the sensor. Pop the grommet the sensor wires run through the floor and pull it through. It wasn't seized and I avoided the need for an 02 sensor crows foot socket by merely removing 4 screws holding a shield on the catalytic converter, which gives you full access to it.

I have an oil leak after previously resealing the valve cover. Some research and confirmed its the VTEC Solenoid gasket that's the culprit. So that is on order. Easy job.

 

[Husker6.5]

@Big T California car? The reason I did the snake my hand under the seat from in back with the rear door open and pull the carpet back with my other hand through the open front door and help to guide/hold the two plug halves together, was because I was leery after looking at the ends of the four seat bolts' threads protruding through the four spot-welded nuts was that even with copious amounts of PB/Liquid Wrench I might accidentally torque off a bolt or break the spot welds holding one or more nuts, something about what 24 years worth of Nebraska winters worth of road salt had done to the exposed threads and no telling what had occurred under the factory undercoating remaining. I'm sure @MrMarty51 and the Rust Belters can appreciate where I'm coming from on that, right @n8in8or?

 

[Big T]

@Big T California car? The reason I did the snake my hand under the seat from in back with the rear door open and pull the carpet back with my other hand through the open front door and help to guide/hold the two plug halves together, was because I was leery after looking at the ends of the four seat bolts' threads protruding through the four spot-welded nuts was that even with copious amounts of PB/Liquid Wrench I might accidentally torque off a bolt or break the spot welds holding one or more nuts, something about what 24 years worth of Nebraska winters worth of road salt had done to the exposed threads and no telling what had occurred under the factory undercoating remaining. I'm sure @MrMarty51 and the Rust Belters can appreciate where I'm coming from on that, right @n8in8or?

Yes, California car = no rust. Will L probably has the best rust free spot of all.

 

[Husker6.5]

Yes, California car = no rust. Will L probably has the best rust free spot of all.

Yeah, but the heat burns out trannies and the sun kills paint and interiors. But, no rust.

 

[Will L.]

Snow
Rust
Paint

3 things I hear rumors of but yet to see. Haha

Nothing rusts here, almost. My shop has the breeze blocks installed along one wall which gets air flow from the swimming pool area. In 5 years of having my tools in the shop where it gets the air from the pool and it’s chlorine- I have more rust on a couple tools that my dad bought in the late 60’s before I was born. My dad didn’t have a garage from mid 70’s until he died in 2001. All his tools were kept in metal desks and basic tool boxes just outside under a big mulberry tree. One craftsman chain wrench in particular I know he told me he bought in early 1966. Had a tiny amount where the teeth get worn, so little that steel wool and 2 minutes would remove 100% of it. Because of the pool I had to start scrubbing off the rust and oiling it and obviously other tools.
Yes I have blocked off those holes now to stop the issue, although temporary, I don’t know what to fill them with permanent so it looks good. Grabbed a couple bags of quick-crete, but thought there might be something better so waiting till I can read up a hair.

This morning helped a guy at work who has a square body suburban, wire from relay to blower motor was loose and cooking. Quick chop and few inches of wire has it working until he gets new mini harness ordered.
Then a stran97 k2500 gasser by another guy (when I was getting my tater tots at sonic at lunchtime) popped an upper radiator hose so helped him by just chopping hose 2” shorter and slight angle change it still reached. Sonic manager let him use their hose to refill his radiator and he was on his way. He lived only 5 miles away and he already ordered all new hoses and belt last week, planned for this weekend. Said it was thinking about putting it off one more week but after that- nope! Haha.


When I was a munchkin & teenager, I loved working on rigs. It was something always done with friends or helping out someone who needed it. “They” say: do what you love for a living and you’ll never work a day in your life. That backfired for me. I enjoy the conversations here and on hummer forum, but now am just so burned out working on rigs that I hate working on mine by myself. Used to be needed time and or money to get things done on my rig. Now I am always short time, money, pain killers & motivation! Haha