What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

[MrMarty51]

Similar happened to My son, between I-94 and Colestrip. Except his deer was bigger, bashed the hood and just about came through the windshield. It was a Dodge with a mitsubishi V-6 enjun. Whatever that car is. He got a new windshield. We dissected the windshield frame of its multiple layers by drilling spot welds. Straightened the pieces and welded them all back in using the holes we drilled for the weld points. A slight bit of rattle can primer and some shake and shoot touch up paint. Urethaned in the new glass and could not tell the car had been damaged. The hood did have a small deformed spot that we pulled out and later Kory got a nice used hood the same color from the pick and pack over in Billings.

 

[Husker6.5]

@MrMarty51 would that have been a Dodge Challenger? It's sister was the Plymouth Sapporo, both made by Mitsubishi for MOPAR in the late 70's/early 80's.

 

[dbrannon79]

Good morning all, just discovered I might have a bad alternator! yesterday on the way to work I noticed my dash lights were dimming out and my voltage gauge was showing around 9 volts. by the time I got to my turn off the main road it was back to charging normally. this morning while on the main road I noticed as soon as I hit 65mph it did it again! I let off the pedal and voltage came back, stepped on the pedal to continue on and as soon as I did, voltage dropped and lights dimmed. Got to my turn off and all came back to working.

I have never experienced an alternator that would stop charging at a higher RPM but worked fine otherwise! I guess I will be pulling the oem cs130 and re-installing the ad244 I had back on. hoping it's just the alternator and not something goofy happening.

 

[Big T]

Good morning all, just discovered I might have a bad alternator! yesterday on the way to work I noticed my dash lights were dimming out and my voltage gauge was showing around 9 volts. by the time I got to my turn off the main road it was back to charging normally. this morning while on the main road I noticed as soon as I hit 65mph it did it again! I let off the pedal and voltage came back, stepped on the pedal to continue on and as soon as I did, voltage dropped and lights dimmed. Got to my turn off and all came back to working.

I have never experienced an alternator that would stop charging at a higher RPM but worked fine otherwise! I guess I will be pulling the oem cs130 and re-installing the ad244 I had back on. hoping it's just the alternator and not something goofy happening.

So this thread turned into what my GMT 400 did to me today?

 

[Husker6.5]

Nah, it's what he's GOING to do to it!

 

[Husker6.5]

But yeah, @dbrannon79 , that's a symptom of an alternator on its last legs. My Burb did that same thing a couple of times, then was fine for a couple of weeks.

Was headed to NYC with some friends and stopped off in west Joliet, IL to top off, as fuel was about 30 cents a gallon cheaper than on the Indiana and Ohio Turnpike service plazas. Any how, got back on I-80 and almost immediately noticed that the voltage gauge was reading about 12 and the tach wasn't working.

After a brief, heated discussion among the four of us that I won as the driver and owner of the Burb of why we didn't need to find a truckstop to work on my diesel engine/replace the alternator, one of my buddies Googled for the nearest auto parts store (an Advanced Auto) off the next exit and a couple of miles into Joliet.

Long story short, pulled into the AA, went inside and asked the parts guy if they had the specific alternator in stock for a '98 6.5TD, he asked me standard or the HD rated one. I said HD if he had it, and if he was looking at the 6.5 application, that while a gasser will bolt in, the pulley sizes are different and it throws the tach off. He had the correct HD alternator sitting there on the shelf! I then amazed my friends when I grabbed my travel tool box out of the back from under our luggage (I ALWAYS carry a pretty complete set of hand tools - ⅜&½ drive SAE&Metric deep and shallow sockets, Torx bit sockets, various length extensions, ratchets, breaker bar, SAE&Metric combination wrenches, 24" prybar, ball pein hammer, 2lb hand sledge and a full assortment of sizes and lengths of Phillips and straight screwdrivers and a cheap code reader, VOM and test light and a small butane torch/soldering iron, solder and a small crimper and connector set in a 24", three drawer tool box whenever I travel anywhere in any of my vehicles), pulled the old alternator right there in Advanced Auto's parking lot took it in, got it tested, confirmed it was dead, bought the HD alt for $128 including the core trade, took it out and installed it, and we were back out on the road and headed to NYC an hour after noticing the alternator was dead and my buddies were amazed at both my carrying a full set of tools, but being able to get everything fixed and back on the road.

So yeah, @dbrannon79, I'd say that alternator is on its last legs.

 

[Husker6.5]

@dbrannon79, if not something Goofy, it could be something Mickey Mouse happening, too!

 

[Grisley1958]

Check all your electrical connections. I had an experience on a 2 hour trip from home where mine would be charging one minute and not the next. Voltmeter kept getting lower and lower as I was nearing home, I even stopped and pulled the fuse for the daytime running lights. Thought for sure it was the alternator. Barely made it home , was at 9 volts on the gauge. Shut the truck off in my shop and it wouldn't start. Went to remove the alternator and the main wire off the back wasn't tight. I tighten the connection, threw the jump pack on it and it fired up and the charging system has worked fine ever since. That was a year ago.

 

[Big T]

But yeah, @dbrannon79 , that's a symptom of an alternator on its last legs. My Burb did that same thing a couple of times, then was fine for a couple of weeks.

Was headed to NYC with some friends and stopped off in west Joliet, IL to top off, as fuel was about 30 cents a gallon cheaper than on the Indiana and Ohio Turnpike service plazas. Any how, got back on I-80 and almost immediately noticed that the voltage gauge was reading about 12 and the tach wasn't working.

After a brief, heated discussion among the four of us that I won as the driver and owner of the Burb of why we didn't need to find a truckstop to work on my diesel engine/replace the alternator, one of my buddies Googled for the nearest auto parts store (an Advanced Auto) off the next exit and a couple of miles into Joliet.

Long story short, pulled into the AA, went inside and asked the parts guy if they had the specific alternator in stock for a '98 6.5TD, he asked me standard or the HD rated one. I said HD if he had it, and if he was looking at the 6.5 application, that while a gasser will bolt in, the pulley sizes are different and it throws the tach off. He had the correct HD alternator sitting there on the shelf! I then amazed my friends when I grabbed my travel tool box out of the back from under our luggage (I ALWAYS carry a pretty complete set of hand tools - ⅜&½ drive SAE&Metric deep and shallow sockets, Torx bit sockets, various length extensions, ratchets, breaker bar, SAE&Metric combination wrenches, 24" prybar, ball pein hammer, 2lb hand sledge and a full assortment of sizes and lengths of Phillips and straight screwdrivers and a cheap code reader, VOM and test light and a small butane torch/soldering iron, solder and a small crimper and connector set in a 24", three drawer tool box whenever I travel anywhere in any of my vehicles), pulled the old alternator right there in Advanced Auto's parking lot took it in, got it tested, confirmed it was dead, bought the HD alt for $128 including the core trade, took it out and installed it, and we were back out on the road and headed to NYC an hour after noticing the alternator was dead and my buddies were amazed at both my carrying a full set of tools, but being able to get everything fixed and back on the road.

So yeah, @dbrannon79, I'd say that alternator is on its last legs.

I have tools. 6.5s will do that to you.

 

[MrMarty51]

@MrMarty51 would that have been a Dodge Challenger? It's sister was the Plymouth Sapporo, both made by Mitsubishi for MOPAR in the late 70's/early 80's.

I do believe that was the model of that car. I had even thought, it must have been embarrassing for Dodge to put their name on such a crappy little chassis.
The son though, He said that thing will get up and really scoot.
My mind went to a vision of a dogs ass across a white rug.

 

[MrMarty51]

@dbrannon79, if not something Goofy, it could be something Mickey Mouse happening, too!

Yup, sometimes its the mickey mouse PO repairs that makes everything goofy.
I have seen a wire inside the rotor come loose, charge real good until higher RPMs is reached then the wire separates from its position and charge rate goes to crap.
Brushes get a unhealthy buildup of soot within the brush holder and then they dont contact the slip rings tight enough.
Could be a number of reasons but, have You checked the ground connections at the rear of the right side cylinder head ? Mighty important to keep them clean.

 

[dbrannon79]

Yup! headed home today and this time the tach was acting up too! pulled over at the gas station to check and make sure nothing was shorting out. fiddled with the wires a few minutes and didn't see anything. too off for the house and all went well no charging issues.

I am wondering if the side connector is loosing contact on the pins. I have the upgraded alternator I scavenged from the JY that I can re-install plus this OE alternator is still under warranty too. might just see if AAP had the HD version on hand, swap it out under warranty.

@Husker6.5 do you remember the part number they gave you for the HD one? when I looked up by application, they only show one that is the 105 amp same as the gasser one.

 

[Big T]

Yup! headed home today and this time the tach was acting up too! pulled over at the gas station to check and make sure nothing was shorting out. fiddled with the wires a few minutes and didn't see anything. too off for the house and all went well no charging issues.

I am wondering if the side connector is loosing contact on the pins. I have the upgraded alternator I scavenged from the JY that I can re-install plus this OE alternator is still under warranty too. might just see if AAP had the HD version on hand, swap it out under warranty.

@Husker6.5 do you remember the part number they gave you for the HD one? when I looked up by application, they only show one that is the 105 amp same as the gasser one.

NAPA offers lifetime warranty on their alternators. In my experience, none of the alternators out there last very long. Typically like 50K miles.

 

[93detroit]

I thinks my gauges on the pillar are having issues! Both of them were along for the ride when I drove into an apple tree. Boost gauge bezel was bent from my hand flying off the wheel. Had to take it apart to rezero it. Pyrometer started getting wonky- usually fixed with a sharp rap. Last time I must have overdone it! It's mostly dead and the boost gauge shows 7psi with the engine off. New units on the way!

 

[dbrannon79]

I was able to zero my boost gauge by pulling the bulb out and sticking a pick in there tweaking it a tiny bit. but mine was only off by about 1 psi. the boost gauge I have is a bosch one that shows -15 to +15lb. would be nice to be able to pull the face without destroying it and change the face. with a gauge isolator, one if these can be used as a fuel pressure gauge.

 

[dbrannon79]

@93detroit I love that style dash! I wish my 95 had this style and was in good shape like yours. (wishful thinking and dreaming)

 

[Will L.]

NAPA offers lifetime warranty on their alternators. In my experience, none of the alternators out there last very long. Typically like 50K miles.

I have had the opposite on both the 130 and 144 units from delco remy. I never had one that didn’t break 150,000. But I only bought brand new, and I found that is a part the dealership used to beat the price from napa and other Delco Remy distributors on. Like my hummer is over 140k on the original alternator when it was built in 95.

The powermaster alternators that have been installed on upfitted rigs with tons of stereo, lights, etc. all went over 200,000. I can’t say the higher expense of the powermaster pays for itself in time, definitely more than a 33% price difference, I think they were 50% more. I haven’t priced them out in several years though. If electrical system is stock, Idk if I would get powermaster.

The lifetime warranty is always nice though, and not hard to swap. Only issue I have is of it kills batteries or electronics by over charging, all savings are lost.

 

[Husker6.5]

I have tools. 6.5s will do that to you.

Not just the 6.5. I take a travel tool kit with me in any vehicle on a road trip, having learned my lesson many years ago on a road trip with the kids in the Chevy G20 conversion van and having the water pump take a dump out on the Interstate, limping it three miles to the exit and into Cozad on a Legal Holiday Monday. Having to spend way too much money to have a local shop install a $30 NAPA water pump (they called the owner of the local NAPA to come unlock the store and pull them a water pump, the joys of rural, small town Nebraska) because I didn't have any tools with me to do it myself and the kids had to be back home for school the next morning. After that, except for rental cars, every vehicle on a road trip gets the "vacation toolbox" put in the trunk/back.

 

[Big T]

Not just the 6.5. I take a travel tool kit with me in any vehicle on a road trip, having learned my lesson many years ago on a road trip with the kids in the Chevy G20 conversion van and having the water pump take a dump out on the Interstate, limping it three miles to the exit and into Cozad on a Legal Holiday Monday. Having to spend way too much money to have a local shop install a $30 NAPA water pump (they called the owner of the local NAPA to come unlock the store and pull them a water pump, the joys of rural, small town Nebraska) because I didn't have any tools with me to do it myself and the kids had to be back home for school the next morning. After that, except for rental cars, every vehicle on a road trip gets the "vacation toolbox" put in the trunk/back.

The only extra tools I have in the Toyota 4Runner is a cordless 1/2" impact and and inflator, so my wife can change her own tire when she pops them off road. I will consider adding an electric jack. Otherwise, Toyotas don't need tools for emergency repairs.

 

[Husker6.5]

View attachment 68422
I thinks my gauges on the pillar are having issues! Both of them were along for the ride when I drove into an apple tree. Boost gauge bezel was bent from my hand flying off the wheel. Had to take it apart to rezero it. Pyrometer started getting wonky- usually fixed with a sharp rap. Last time I must have overdone it! It's mostly dead and the boost gauge shows 7psi with the engine off. New units on the way!

"Don't drive into the apple tree in anybody else but me, anybody else but me, anybody else but me !