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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

@Chewy1576 are you referring to an adapter kit for the Garrett that @quadstar87 developed? I didn't know that, it would definitely make the swap easier and quicker for sure. I already have, and am still debating which one I'm going to use when I have the available funds to dive into the turbo upgrade project, an IC from an LB7 and an IC from a 2nd Gen Dodge. What orientation is the Garrett mounted to the exhaust manifold with the Quadstar kit?
 
Husker6.5 said:
@Chewy1576 are you referring to an adapter kit for the Garrett that @quadstar87 developed? I didn't know that, it would definitely make the swap easier and quicker for sure. I already have, and am still debating which one I'm going to use when I have the available funds to dive into the turbo upgrade project, an IC from an LB7 and an IC from a 2nd Gen Dodge. What orientation is the Garrett mounted to the exhaust manifold with the Quadstar kit?
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John built the adapters to mount the Holset HE351VE to the exhaust manifold, turbine outlet to the downpipe, modified the compressor housing for side exit instead of front, and compressor outlet to the intake.
 

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Oh, I thought you were talking about the Garrett and I got my hopes all up. Nevermind.

That is some excellent craftsmanship and design. If I was going to use an HE351VE, I would use it with the stock compressor outlet for ease of CAC installation. Now, the question for that is, "Do I use the LB7 D-Max unit ala Ferm's installation, or do I use the Dodge unit and its installation method?"
 
I was trying to track down a front exit housing, even one with a larger wheel for better airflow, but just went with it. I have to modify the IC for the stock radiator, so I may still go that route.
 
Husker6.5 said:
So, you started with a turbo core and not a complete HE351VE used (or new) take off unit?
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It was a complete take off turbo that the previous owner said worked fine. The actuator ended up being bad, but they are easy to replace. Sent it to John for mockup and part build on an engine, and he made and modified what he needed to make it fit, basically ended up being bolt on.
 
So you were just looking for a larger front exit housing to just install a larger compressor wheel into it? Now you have a custom side exit housing (bigger compressor wheel?) and you're going to plumb in a CAC to that? Just trying to follow what's going on.
 
Husker6.5 said:
So you were just looking for a larger front exit housing to just install a larger compressor wheel into it? Now you have a custom side exit housing (bigger compressor wheel?) and you're going to plumb in a CAC to that? Just trying to follow what's going on.
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This is how it sits now. Stock compressor wheel and housing, only modification is for side exit. I clocked the compressor outlet down for the CAC.

When doing the CAC install, I was thinking about changing the compressor back to front exit but couldn't find another one reasonably priced, so I started looking at aftermarket housings and wheels, but decided to make what I had work.
 

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Thought I was going to get the truck back today, no go. Got the call that it was ready, so I went to get it. Started it up to leave and could hear a tick like an exhaust leak or valve train? It increased with RPM so definitely in the engine. Go back in to get the tech that did the work and have him listen to it, and notice oil dripping on the ground under the driver side. I'm suspecting valve cover gaskets. It gets to stay until all the problems are fixed. It was a big job and I'll give them a chance to clean it up. Hopefully no more issues after this.
 
Truck is home. The oil leak ended up being the driver side valve cover gasket. We think that the tick must have been air in the fuel lines, it's gone now. Looks like the rear main seal is going to need to be done soon now, but I knew that already. It's running great, can't believe how much the fluidampr smooths things out. Temps are a solid 190 degrees, but the true test will be towing. It's pulling my trailer to elk camp in 3 weeks, so better be ready!
 
When you do the rear main seal later, get the tool. So many times I’ve seen people (and could be me included) installed it with out the tool and a year or less later... do it again.
 
Will L. said:
When you do the rear main seal later, get the tool. So many times I’ve seen people (and could be me included) installed it with out the tool and a year or less later... do it again.
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Probably just going to have a shop do it honestly. I used to be able to do my own projects, but I have come to the realization that spare time is too scarce to be able to dig in and do things like this myself. Maybe after kids grow up and can be more self sufficient.
 
That’s fine, but tell them ahead of time you would like to see the tool- just to know they have it. Otherwise it’s a common thing to just try fitting it without a special tool, but if they actually have the tool then they will use it.
 
I was looking the old heads over today, and there don't appear to be any damage or cracks. I may have wrongly assumed they cracked and/or warped to cause or contribute to the pressure leak in to the coolant system. I havent put a straight edge to them yet, but they don't look warped either. There are diamond precups, and seem to be in good shape. Maybe a visit to the machine shop to be cleaned up, new spring and seals, and maybe they can be passed along to someone in need.
 
Will L. said:
That’s fine, but tell them ahead of time you would like to see the tool- just to know they have it. Otherwise it’s a common thing to just try fitting it without a special tool, but if they actually have the tool then they will use it.
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Asking someone to see their special tool and if they can use it? That could get a guy punched in the face. I know, what happens in Vegas stays in Vegas. :joyful:
 
@Chewy1576 Yeah, definitely get a machinist's edge on them and see if there's any warpage. You may have gotten lucky and the head bolt(s) stretched and the head lifted causing the head gasket to let go and leak combustion into the cooling system.
 
Getting a pretty good oil leak from the front of the engine. The shop that did the heads put in a new front main seal when they did the fluidampr, hoping they didn't screw it up.

Another big concern I have is they didn't put sealant on the studs before threading them in to the block. I checked the oil and it is well above the full mark on the dipstick. Im theorizing they overfilled it when they changed the oil after the head change and its leaking past the seals. Im half tempted to drain the oil and look for coolant too, just to ease my worries.
 
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