What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

[MrMarty51]

Delete the vacuum pump. I replaced mine and it gave out less than 30k. Just get a smaller belt and a manual waste gate.

Looks like a new Harmonic Balancer and pulley too.

 

[Lawdawg#1]

No, but they could be the rings around Uranus!

Looks like a new Harmonic Balancer and pulley too.

Good insurance to prevent broken crank.

 

[dbrannon79]

something has peaked my attention on my truck that has me a little concerned. I'm about 700 miles into this oil change and Sunday afternoon I heard a noise that I didn't like. when I cranked it up I heard what sounds like lifter or what you'd normally hear on an engine with little to no oil pressure for maybe a second then went away. I didn't think much about it since I figured it was just because I hadn't ran it all day Saturday or most all day Sunday until the late evening.

this morning and again this afternoon when I was leaving to and from work, that same sound... I have not seen any difference in oil pressure when driving around and the oil level is on the full mark.

the noise is clear and plainly not from the normal diesel sound, you can clearly tell it's ether lifters or something from the lower end, but describing it, it's exactly the same noise as if the oil pump lost it's prime and would take a second to get oil up and flowing. I watched the gauge this afternoon as I cranked it over. when it fires off the gauge is at 0 when the noise is heard and disappears the moment the gauge begins to rise ( within a second) when cranking it also will bust off right away, maybe on the second or third revolution (wasn't counting) so there's little to no time between cranking and it firing up.

Should this be something I need to be concerned about?

 

[Will L.]

anytime you hear a new noise- don’t disregard it.
You might have to let it cool down and have someone start it while you’re under the hood.

 

[MrMarty51]

Started building a bracket to lift the FFM so that the fuel hoses will be over the intake manifold.
I seen how another person did it in another forum but Incant rememer that forums name.
Oh yeah, and went to the store and got safety glasses. Seemed everytime I went into the garudge it felt like dirt or some such landed in one eye or tuther.

 

[ak diesel driver]

I just used metric all thread

 

[MrMarty51]

I just used metric all thread

I thought about using metric all thread, called NAPA and they had none, Oriellys has it in stock, even headed to the parts store and got almost there and then the thought about all the scrap metal setting in buckets in the garage I’ll complicate things and build something.
Setting the FFM in a raised up position above the mounting bolt holes of the intake manifold, I kind of like it turned 90* and the bleed and IP feed hoses coming off towards the left side of the engine.
I’m also planning a T fitting feeding the FFM. Barb fitting two of the T in/outlets and then a sender unit for a fuel pressure gauge in whichever one is left.
The heater rod in My FFM is swollen and has a split. Shopped around for a heater. About $175.00 was about as cheap as I could find for a A/C Delco unit. Got on Leroys site and got the entire FFM with heater, WIF sensor and the feed the beast kit for right at $200.00.
And so I’ll be looking for a heater for the old FFM and maybe have a spare or, set it up for the feed the beast and pay it forward to someone thats in a worser financial crisis than I am.

 

[MrMarty51]

Got a mounting, for the FFM, sort of rigged up.




And then there is this mess. Thought about building a new kne but then got into Leroys store and just got His new and improved unit on the way.
I will check continuity through to the eyelet on all the wires. Makes me wonder if at least one of the fusible links is burned out.

 

[dbrannon79]

Got a mounting, for the FFM, sort of rigged up.
View attachment 80454

View attachment 80455

And then there is this mess. Thought about building a new kne but then got into Leroys store and just got His new and improved unit on the way.
I will check continuity through to the eyelet on all the wires. Makes me wonder if at least one of the fusible links is burned out.
View attachment 80457

Your bracket looks good. you might concider adding an extra brace to bolt onto that extra threaded hole behind where the intake horn mounts just to prevent the whole apparatus from vibrating.

 

[MrMarty51]

Your bracket looks good. you might concider adding an extra brace to bolt onto that extra threaded hole behind where the intake horn mounts just to prevent the whole apparatus from vibrating.

Thought about making another tab that could go from the forward bracket bolt to the upper intake manifold rear center bolt.
We shall see.

 

[dbrannon79]

I didn't hear that ticking noise today leaving for work or coming home. I am wondering if a leaky drain back valve thingy in the oil filter can cause that.

 

[ak diesel driver]

I'd be suspecting a rocker button

 

[dbrannon79]

I'd be suspecting a rocker button

EEK! I don't even want to think about that one! I should have done them back when I did the valve cover gaskets a while back. but I didn't know any better then.

I guess I had better think about replacing or doing the bolt mod real soon.

 

[Husker6.5]

Button, button, who's got the rocker button?

 

[Big T]

Buttons are $2 apiece from Autozone. Pound them valve covers off, buttons in and new covers on.

 

[jrsavoie]

Buttons are $2 apiece from Autozone. Pound them valve covers off, buttons in and new covers on.

But how much are the new covers?

 

[MrMarty51]

But how much are the new covers?

I seen a website that has the new covers but can not remember the name of that place.
IIRC about $150.00.

 

[MrMarty51]

Amazon. $175.00 or so.

Amazon.com

 

[dbrannon79]

didn't someone offer the rubber formed valve cover gaskets that had those little metal inserts in them to prevent over torqueing the cover bolts? I looked around online and can only find the cork gaskets

 

[Will L.]

Leroy has the rubber gaskets, But no inserts.