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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

My engine in my truck doesn't have that oil port in the valley, only the boss. iirc there isn't the two burn-out marks ether, only the dotted round mark.

interestingly the 6.2 I have on the stand only has one oil port in the same location as my engine. it has a tee where the sensor and a line is connected that reaches over to the turbo too
 
Paveltolz said:
Feeling ya. Bought a set of reman Bosch from a local shop. Tested them about 5000 miles later. AKDiesel tried them and couldn't get them to pop as they wouldn't open and he was at about 3000psi. Took them with me to visit Heath and they eventually popped at around 3300-3500... no mist, no chatter, just streams of fuel.
Click to expand...
That right there- that is how you burn holes in a diesel piston.
The stream has to be narrow and usually one injector only so the engine is running on 7 and the other becomes a cutting tool.
 
Will L. said:
That right there- that is how you burn holes in a diesel piston.
The stream has to be narrow and usually one injector only so the engine is running on 7 and the other becomes a cutting tool.
Click to expand...
Fortunately/unfortunately, with the current issues the motor was having, the heads were removed and the pistons weren’t affected. Dodged one there.
 
Church bound this morning.
Maybe after church I’ll attempt to cut, carve, whittle, pry and beat that other valve cover from the engine.
Hoping I dont have to remove the AC compressor mounting bracket.
After wrestling and removing the RH side unit, I believe I will go in the extra debt and order Leroys gasket, stud, girdle kit.
Then if ever removal would be necessary, there be some lift to make it easier to get a carving device between the head and the cover.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Church bound this morning.
Maybe after church I’ll attempt to cut, carve, whittle, pry and beat that other valve cover from the engine.
Hoping I dont have to remove the AC compressor mounting bracket.
After wrestling and removing the RH side unit, I believe I will go in the extra debt and order Leroys gasket, stud, girdle kit.
Then if ever removal would be necessary, there be some lift to make it easier to get a carving device between the head and the cover.
Click to expand...
That's the biggest problem with the Right Stuff.
 
The girdles he has made is a great idea. I remember being excited about the rubber-like gasket he is having made. I was hoping to hear of several people that bought the gaskets and telling of results.

I use the right stuff because that was my best results. But I dang sure would like some confirmation that there is no one that used Leroy’s gasket & girdle who had leaks.
Is there ANYONE that did use them and they still leaked?
 
Will L. said:
The girdles he has made is a great idea. I remember being excited about the rubber-like gasket he is having made. I was hoping to hear of several people that bought the gaskets and telling of results.

I use the right stuff because that was my best results. But I dang sure would like some confirmation that there is no one that used Leroy’s gasket & girdle who had leaks.
Is there ANYONE that did use them and they still leaked?
Click to expand...
I haven't heard anything.

Haven't really heard of anybody using the gaskets.
 
That left side cover, while being a little more difficult to got to, actually came off a lot easier.
Got the wiring and etc out of the way. Pulled the pieces of paper towel plugging the ports, dampened them, stuffed them back into the holes.
Top side not so oily and grimy as the lower side.
Bernzomatic torch, heated the piss out of that sealing rail on the cover. Gasket scraper and it easily tapped between the cover and the head. Tapped is the word. Along the full length of the top side. Back to center position, lifted the handle and separated the top side from the head.
Got out a pry bar, slid it through the gap, lifted, lower edge started coming loose, another slight pull and it popped free.
I didnt think the cover would clear the AC bracket, it does, easily.
Now to get that nasty goop cleared off of both surfaces.
 
Will L. said:
The girdles he has made is a great idea. I remember being excited about the rubber-like gasket he is having made. I was hoping to hear of several people that bought the gaskets and telling of results.

I use the right stuff because that was my best results. But I dang sure would like some confirmation that there is no one that used Leroy’s gasket & girdle who had leaks.
Is there ANYONE that did use them and they still leaked?
Click to expand...
I watched the video.
He recommends lightly gooping the gaskets. Set the cover on and lightly tapping to seat it down, set for 24 hours to cure, then install the other gasket to the outside and set the girdle atop of that.
I’m thinking I’ll use some Honda brand gasket sealer. I’ve used that on vertically split Triumph motorcycle cases and never had a leak in many miles.
 
dbrannon79 said:
@MrMarty51 I spotted this on amazon, might be of some use for injectors.

Click to expand...
Going to stop at the jewelry store tomorrow and see if they have some of this.
If they do then I’ll have it to try out.
Going to try it on one of the old injectors first. If it works on that then I’ll move on to the new Bosch units.
 
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Long as I am this far down into the engine.
Thinking maybe the seal on the oil pump drive adapter should be replaced.
Anyone know if there is room to lift it on out of there ?
Is there any one O ring thats better than any other ?
I’m guessing it has an O ring around it to seal oil from seeping out of the bore.
 
MrMarty51 said:
That left side cover, while being a little more difficult to got to, actually came off a lot easier.
Got the wiring and etc out of the way. Pulled the pieces of paper towel plugging the ports, dampened them, stuffed them back into the holes.
Top side not so oily and grimy as the lower side.
Bernzomatic torch, heated the piss out of that sealing rail on the cover. Gasket scraper and it easily tapped between the cover and the head. Tapped is the word. Along the full length of the top side. Back to center position, lifted the handle and separated the top side from the head.
Got out a pry bar, slid it through the gap, lifted, lower edge started coming loose, another slight pull and it popped free.
I didnt think the cover would clear the AC bracket, it does, easily.
Now to get that nasty goop cleared off of both surfaces.
Click to expand...
I never thought of heating a valve cover to remove it.

How does that work with the right stuff?

Would an electric heat gun help any in removal involving the right stuff?
 
jrsavoie said:
I never thought of heating a valve cover to remove it.

How does that work with the right stuff?

Would an electric heat gun help any in removal involving the right stuff?
Click to expand...
I too have a heat gun and thought about using it. The bernzomatic (uses a screw on propane bottle) has a small enough flame that I wasnt really fearing of catching anything on fire. The top side of the cover was quite oil and grime free.
Thinking about it now, IF I’d of had to heat the lower oily side, heat gun may have been a better option.
I dont know if a heat gun would get the cover flange hot enough but it might.
At one point in time, I thought enough heat and tried driving in the scraper, still mighty stiff so I heated the flange until it was smoking pretty good, scraper tapped right in, got most of the length cut but then had to heat some more towards the front corner. Scraper then tapped right on through.
Apparently there had been enough oil seepage through the lower side flange that it didnt take much to get it to pop free by pulling outwards on the upper side.
Right stuff should let loose as well as any other adhesive when heat is applied to it.
 
MrMarty51 said:
I too have a heat gun and thought about using it. The bernzomatic (uses a screw on propane bottle) has a small enough flame that I wasnt really fearing of catching anything on fire. The top side of the cover was quite oil and grime free.
Thinking about it now, IF I’d of had to heat the lower oily side, heat gun may have been a better option.
I dont know if a heat gun would get the cover flange hot enough but it might.
At one point in time, I thought enough heat and tried driving in the scraper, still mighty stiff so I heated the flange until it was smoking pretty good, scraper tapped right in, got most of the length cut but then had to heat some more towards the front corner. Scraper then tapped right on through.
Apparently there had been enough oil seepage through the lower side flange that it didnt take much to get it to pop free by pulling outwards on the upper side.
Right stuff should let loose as well as any other adhesive when heat is applied to it.
Click to expand...
What about a piece of heat tape - like is used to keep pipes from freezing?
 
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