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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Finally got out there today and installed the temp gauge in the rear passenger side head port. found out the threads were galded up, the plug was just barely in there. didn't have a 3/8" pipe tap nor did anyone in town have one. ended up finessing a brass 3/8 to 1/8 reducer in the block and made it work for now. I will have to get back in there and re-thread the port in the head sometime soon.

also while I was in there I noticed an oil leak all over the shock mount on the frame and started looking where that came from.... found oil all over the lower side of the turbo compressor housing dripping down. I'm not sure if that is coming from the CDR or the turbo seals, but I don't really want to open that can of worms just yet!!

I guess I need to start looking for another turbo soon and when that goes in, get a oil catch can installed.

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TSP recommends a 35/40/12 hybrid turbo. how does a guy find and put together one of those on a budget? not sure what model dodge cummins used a 12 cm turbo stock.

I did find what I believe is a 10cm hx35 on the jungle web site made by blackhorse racing. don't know anything about them though I did look up their site and searching for some reviews. they seem to have decent ones. but then again I have no idea what the size is for the GM-8 is compared to a 10cm housing not to mention what the difference is between the 10 and 12cm ones!

for someone who never hauls anything other than the family around. I am curious if that size turbo will suffice for my use.
 
I did some searching online and it seems that the GM-8 is about a 8 or 9cm turbo. I would lean on it being more of an 8cm.

Here is the link on the one I'm looking at. granted it's on the cheap side if things but is doable for my pocket book. some of the reviews on it are harsh but reading between the lines I don't think these guys inspected it, shaft play or possibly even properly oiled it before installing. Things you DO before installing any turbo!


they have a website also that I did poke around some and also sent an email to them inquiring on some specs. hopelully they respond soon. I think this combined with the two items below will be within my budget to get by for a while. I did look on the car-part site for something used I could get and see used prices as high as $800. that in my book is a Oh No!! way over what I could pay at the moment.


 
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@dbrannon79 if it's too good to be true, it almost always is. That price is WAY cheap for a genuine Holset turbo, remanufactured or new. Best guess is that those are CKO copies that can have their internal tolerances all over the place and mostly on the loose and sloppy side - and thus the complaints by purchasers about blowing oil, sloppy shaft, early failure, etc.
 
that is true. it is a CKO copy that I'm sure of. the one good thing is on the Amazon return policy. when it's marked prime, it's a no questions asked return. that said, I could order it. check clearances, dissemble checking the internals and if there is something funky I can return it for a full refund. they usually send the refund as soon as it's scanned in at the UPS store in my town.

as for the copy clone. I would like to dissemble it and see if a genuine Holset rebuild kit will work when the time comes if needed, things like the bushings and what not. IDk if anyone has the specs for the shaft diameter or bushing sizes and other measurements. curious minds would like to know just how close of a clone it really is!!
 
the oddity is that there are so many CKO copies out there for these dodge turbos and I have yet to find anything online where someone has bought one and dissembled and inspected one right out of the box! it's usually always after catastrophic failure they show it.
 
something else that came to mind last night... for a minor safety precaution on a compressor wheel flying apart going into the intake.... can a fella take a piece of heavy steel hardware cloth and lay it over the gasket area of the intake horn using some "right stuff" making a somewhat rubber gasket so that you have a steel screen inside the intake for some sort of protection and not limit the breathing ability of the engine?

the thought came to me by getting the outline of the upper intake gasket, cutting out a piece of hardware cloth screen, using two sheets of wax paper lay a bead of cheese wiz gasket maker on both sides of the screen. having the wax paper on both sides and lay flat on a surface with like a heavy book pressing it all down like a sandwich to dry.

once dry remove and peal off the wax paper to have a wire screen intake gasket. it was just a thought that went through my mind last night LOL.
 
Not sure what year the neighbors Suburban is, guessing about a 1998 or so. Still a GMT400 whatever it is.
Wifey got up to raid the refrigerator. She calls to Me, neighbor has some lights on on their Suburban.
I install My heaviest robe and wander onto the street over to their Suburban, try the door to see if I can turn off them lights, door is locked.
To their house door, knock knock knock, wait, hear some movement, I call through the door You have some lights on on Your Suburban. He opens the door, oh, okay. I told Him I tried the door so to shut them off but the door is locked.
Back home I go, watch, Out comes Tom, unlocks the door. He steps on brake pedal, brake lights comes on bright. Not that circuit.
Still in my robe, walk back over to there. He starts the engine, cranks over slow but does start. He tries turning on the marker/headlamp switch to no avail.
I tell him, I have to go. I only have on unner shorts beneath this robe and I’m freezing off my BA DOUBLE HOCKEY STICKS with a S at the end. in other words. LLS
Dan.gif

My laigs is still froze.
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since this freezing weather has hit us, I have noticed the last couple of days my rig seems to be getting what I think is brake fading. not sure it it's just the cold that's causing it but the pedal is feeling like it's not right.

the best way I can explain it is on a vacuum booster style system when you step on the pedal down to a point and then it feels like your stepping on a big spring that has some give in it and you don't get any more or less braking action. she's still stopping but something isn't feeling right.

I wonder if that could be the master cylinder starting to bypass.
 
dbrannon79 said:
disconnect battery time and worry about it in the morning kinda thing lol.
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I went out to check the mail this afternoon, fully clothed, neighbor was outside and hollered, where’s Your bath robe. I hollered back, in the house, I didnt wanna freeze My balls off. 😹😹😹
I asked him if he figured out the problem. Nope, disconnected the battery and waiting for the temps to warm, probably tomorrow. He said he thinks its the headlight switch. 🤷‍♂️😹😹😹
 
Will L. said:
I wonder if you have moisture in your brake fluid
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it's possible. I wonder if I autta fire the cannon on a new MC and maybe even hoses. I haven't touched my brakes since I replaced the front and rears. and I remember at the time the front hoses aren't delco ones. they are from my local AAP. I never touched the rear hose ether and the pedal has always been a little stiffer than I would like. at least as I'm used to it and when I get into my wife's car I will attempt putting every one through the windshield!!

might even be wise for me to swing by the dealer and make sure this rig doesn't use the HD version of the MC like I found out on the wheel cylinders.
 
dbrannon79 said:
it's possible. I wonder if I autta fire the cannon on a new MC and maybe even hoses. I haven't touched my brakes since I replaced the front and rears. and I remember at the time the front hoses aren't delco ones. they are from my local AAP. I never touched the rear hose ether and the pedal has always been a little stiffer than I would like. at least as I'm used to it and when I get into my wife's car I will attempt putting every one through the windshield!!

might even be wise for me to swing by the dealer and make sure this rig doesn't use the HD version of the MC like I found out on the wheel cylinders.
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I wouldn’t.
If you haven’t done a fluid flush in a long time- yes try that. If you later install cylinders/ calipers the new fluid in place won’t hurt anything and would lessen need to do it then.

If you prefer to do a choose to firs the parts cannon, then imo do it all. Anything that is 2 years or older- master cylinder all the way to calipers and lines. Half a system new still leaves half at risk.
 
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