Upgrades to get better mileage and performance

[gcxcountrystar1]

can i use regular after market gauges, i was looking on ebay and i found regular aftermarket gauges and the i found aftermarket gauges for diesels

 

[buddy]

Any gauges are fine.

For boost gauge, 15psi is good for any normal person, but dont get one over 30psi, because youll likely only ever need to 15.

EGT gauge you want to read to 1600F max, because you really only want to use up to 1200F.

Tranny temp gauges are pretty standard in what is red or yellow at certain temps.

Like BK95td said, first half on the fuel gauge is like 3/4 of your fuel. the first 1/4 is like 1/2 the tank. Youll get a better gauge when you refill the tank and see how much from full you have used.

 

[OrionThade]

well, I am guessing your odometer is off, and by bigger gears I am assuming that means lower differential gearing, not in the tranny. Not sure he can change the transmission gear ratio changes, but maybe he used beefier planetary or something. Your bucking sounds strange, like the PO messed something up. Perhaps he put in the wrong torque converter with a stall speed of 2000rpm or greater thinking this was "better", or maybe the transmission mount is broken?. Changing the differential gears will affect the speedometer and odomoeter which can be adjusted by modifying the VSSB module.

25-28mpg is kind of unlikey with a turbo 6.5, so I would be trying to verify the speedo is accurate, as well as the odomoeter.

To further, the easiest way to check to see if your speedo is really accurate is to grab a GPS and compare the speed and distance travelled according to it with what your truck says. Like Buddy says, I'm guessing you'll see a discrepancy.

 

[Turbine Doc]

the part number for the t stat is Part No. 14039 Stant 195 Degree Thermostat, it was the only place around here that had one other places told me it would take 2 to 3 days to get a t stat i dont know why, no one had them in stock and i had to wait over night for that one. i just looked at my radiator and the fins look pretty messed up, so im gonna call some friends and see if anyone has a spare they wanna sell. as for antifreeze its what ever my dad had laying around, it was a 50/50 mix when i drained it it was green had a lil brown tint to it through

Okay you'll want to order the correct AC Delco stat as it has a design that properly blocks off the bypass of the housing the Stant stat does not have, also since you said a mix and brownish stuff, possibly rust in system or possibly somebody mixed Dex Cool (orange stuff these trucks normally are filled with) & green coolant.

I use DEX only others don't like DEX and swap to green, either is fine but they can't be mixed, so you need to do a drain & flush of what you have in there full flush is what you want stat out & heater on circulate, no residue left behind clear drain after the flush is what you are after, then after flush to clear drain all you can & you'll want fresh blend 50/50 with distilled water.

Some guys use water wetter or Evans, 50/50 Dex works well with both of mine so far, you'll get some debate that Dex isn't good, working on mine since 98 but it does require PH to be measured and it's extended life coolant, not permanent life coolant, so still has to be changed.

 

[gcxcountrystar1]

does anyone know the part number for the correct AC Delco stat as it has a design that properly blocks off the bypass of the housing

 

[bk95td]

The using distilled water is debatable also. The lack of minerals in the water will attack just about any metal . I talked to a guy from a well company that installs super pure water filtering systems. The super pure water ate all the copper piping in his house. He had to switch to plastic.
I read a article somewhere about it also. I believe John Deere paid for the research. Their conclusion was to just use tap water and change at recommended intervals.
From my experence 3-4 lbs of sand and bugs will come out of the radiator with a good wash. It just keeps on coming out. 3 hours is a good estimate.

 

[gcxcountrystar1]

hey found a buddy with a twin turbo set up for a 6.5TD brand new only wants 250 for it comes with everything including exhuast, go ideal or bad ideal to put on rig

 

[Crankme69]

We don't know enough yet to make a recommendation about that..?

I would throw the anchor out on spending anything yet until ya learn yr way around ye rig a little & find out what is what.

Most of us 6.5 guys are frugal.

 

[tanman_2006]

hey found a buddy with a twin turbo set up for a 6.5TD brand new only wants 250 for it comes with everything including exhuast, go ideal or bad ideal to put on rig

As far as i know there aren't any twin turbo "kits" availabe for the 6.5. Some info on this set up would be nice. First i would make sure the truck is in 100% good condition:
figure out the tranny surges
check all of the oil cooler lines for leaks and replace if necessary
gearing
gauges
good lift pump
turbo master (boost controler)
turn up what you have and see how things go, then you are ready push the envelope with twins

 

[Woody35]

can we see pics of it or some more info on the twin turbos?

 

[Turbine Doc]

The using distilled water is debatable also. The lack of minerals in the water will attack just about any metal . I talked to a guy from a well company that installs super pure water filtering systems. The super pure water ate all the copper piping in his house. He had to switch to plastic.
I read a article somewhere about it also. I believe John Deere paid for the research. Their conclusion was to just use tap water and change at recommended intervals.
From my experence 3-4 lbs of sand and bugs will come out of the radiator with a good wash. It just keeps on coming out. 3 hours is a good estimate.

Agreed the jury is still out on distilled, when I was running GE's locomotive shop in Waycross Ga all we added to locomotive Diesels was distilled water, but then again I also know of some turbine heat exchangers that failed (all copper bundles/plumbing) that were "thin" & burst as the copper metal xferred to the demin water used but some electrolytic actions going on as those were in power generation and some "trons" were getting into the water aiding in the leeching of copper to the demin water.

I went searching web this evening found this http://www.nichols.nu/tip514.htm which summarizes most of what else on web I was able to find on the topic,.

If you have the link to the Deere info I couldnt find it I'd like to read that, I did find this http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMRE312212_19/DX,COOL3_19_20081103.html where they recommend quality water but did not specify that it be distilled

Carrying on I found this that said mixing of coolant types was ok http://www.search-autoparts.com/sea...estandard//motorage/162005/156227/article.pdf which was news to me but mixing of coolants could negatively impact protection interval.

 

[bk95td]

It could have been hot rod, car craft or popular mechanics that I read that in. Probbly been a couple years ago. I switched back to tap water after that. The guy from the well co. confirmed what I had read. Ask me what I ate 2 days ago:???::???:

 

[Crankme69]

All I add is the premix 50/50 & that ain't much. My hope is that eliminates water mistakes?

 

[gcxcountrystar1]

Just got back from a 100 mile cruize had 2 gps 1 gps said I was one mile slow from my speedo and the other said I was right on the money my odometer is running correct filled up when I got home avg 24 mpg, my temp gauge didn't rise above 120 it usually runs 150 should I be worried?

 

[WarWagon]

Bucking in 4th is not good.

What kind of bucking and what RPM is on the tach? Does the tach jump RPM's?

Did they do anything special to the transmission like an aftermarket converter? I suspect they gave you a line of BS and sold you a truck that has some issues. In any case these issues can be overcome and people will say "What a Monster!" of your truck.

Your MPG should be in the 14 MPG range - are you sure it is a turbocharged diesel? The 6.2 and the 6.5 NA engines were options this year and get better MPG.

Use a paper clip to read codes out of the computer. As the transmission is all the computer controls it will not light up the Service Engine Soon light except for key on bulb check or loss of the engine RPM sensor signal. Have a trans issue setting a code and you will not get a light. No overdrive will be your only indication of trouble and high trans temps.

With 4.10's and near stock tires the TCC locks up around 45 MPH. It unlocks around 40 MPH.

Check your engine mounts and transmission mount.

Check the pink wire on the Injection pump for being loose.

Check the lift pump and fuel filter condition.

Then on your truck the TPS may need adjustment.

 

[WarWagon]

Just got back from a 100 mile cruize had 2 gps 1 gps said I was one mile slow from my speedo and the other said I was right on the money my odometer is running correct filled up when I got home avg 24 mpg, my temp gauge didn't rise above 120 it usually runs 150 should I be worried?

If the temp goes over 210 you should be worried about the fun of pulling an engine out. Temps read low over gas engines. These engines get MPG with higher temps but run a fine line of block and head cracks much over the best MPG temps.

Use a digital readout heat gun to verify temps. The temp sensor for the gauge is not that reliable and the connector is subject to corrosion making big changes in the readings. .

 

[gcxcountrystar1]

If the temp goes over 210 you should be worried about the fun of pulling an engine out. Temps read low over gas engines. These engines get MPG with higher temps but run a fine line of block and head cracks much over the best MPG temps.

Use a digital readout heat gun to verify temps. The temp sensor for the gauge is not that reliable and the connector is subject to corrosion making big changes in the readings. .

so my sensor might not be good?

 

[gcxcountrystar1]

Bucking in 4th is not good.

What kind of bucking and what RPM is on the tach? Does the tach jump RPM's?

Did they do anything special to the transmission like an aftermarket converter? I suspect they gave you a line of BS and sold you a truck that has some issues. In any case these issues can be overcome and people will say "What a Monster!" of your truck.

Your MPG should be in the 14 MPG range - are you sure it is a turbocharged diesel? The 6.2 and the 6.5 NA engines were options this year and get better MPG.

Use a paper clip to read codes out of the computer. As the transmission is all the computer controls it will not light up the Service Engine Soon light except for key on bulb check or loss of the engine RPM sensor signal. Have a trans issue setting a code and you will not get a light. No overdrive will be your only indication of trouble and high trans temps.

With 4.10's and near stock tires the TCC locks up around 45 MPH. It unlocks around 40 MPH.

Check your engine mounts and transmission mount.

Check the pink wire on the Injection pump for being loose.

Check the lift pump and fuel filter condition.

Then on your truck the TPS may need adjustment.

where do you put the paperclip and how do i read the code

 

[chefmike]

The technical library is your friend.

But you do it exactly like this.

 

[gcxcountrystar1]

it said flash (pause) flash flash (long pause) just kept repeating it self over