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Tune, resistors and tcc

Well the transmission is officially roasted... I'm waiting on my buddy to come tow me home... It will intermittently drive a little bit and then it just stops and coasts...no matter how much you rev the engine... And I can hear some kind of noise coming out of the bellhousing area at least I think that's where it's coming from it's real faint but if the truck is running and in park and you get under it you can hear it
 
Oh darn. I was hoping for a little happier outcome.
Will You attempt to rebuild Your transmission ?
To Me, that would be the preferred method.
 
No clue what I'm doing with this one.. I don't know anything about tranny's. My "brother" Clayton is giving me one to put in he said the one he's got should be good. He's not sure if it came out of a 97 or 98 but I don't think that matters also not sure if it came out of a gasser or a diesel, so if anyone knows of any complications with those unknowns please let me know... probably going to change rear main seal while it's apart if anyone has one in stock..
I have tomorrow and Tuesday off so God willing I can get it changed by Tuesday night.. cause considering I just started this job I don't think boss will be very understanding if I miss work..
Not gonna lie, I haven't done this before but according to Clayton on a 2wd, 4l80e's are really easy to change..
If any one has any pointers or advice please chime in, gonna start dropping the old one out in the morning..
 
I might be wrong on this suggestion.
Before installation of the transmission, Drop the pan, check the contents, blackish muddish stuff, if it all looks okay, throw in a new fromt pump seal and a new torque convertor too.
 
Gotta see what converter costs. But yeah I figured I'd drop the pan and put new filter in it. And new fluid obviously. What is fromt pump seal?
 
@Stoney there's an oil seal behind the torque converter. I think the auto parts calls it the input shaft seal. might want to replace the drive shaft seal too (output shaft)

I'm no expert, but your truck is a 97, there shouldn't be anything different on the gasser tranny of that year. maybe the speed sensors or the PRNDL switch connectors are different, but I wouldn't think they'd be different.

if you don't have a tranny jack and doing this on the ground, be sure to use a block of wood on the pan and use a strap to hold it and the jack to the tranny. what I have done in the past when pulling it, drop the drive shaft from the rear diff and the carrier bearing but leave the drive shaft in the back of the tranny to avoid the mess from tranny fluid pouring out as your dropping it down!
 
If the replacement transmission is from a gasser- you can’t use that torque converter. You will be pulling the trans again in a couple months.
And AK is on point. If your current one is smoked- the torque converter will be full of junk and will ruin the new transmission. You simply HAVE TO have the right one.

You HAVE TO flush the trans cooler lines and cooler. New transmission will be quickly ruined if you don’t

wipe new atf of the seal face where the torque converter goes in- like any seal it should never be installed dry. Just a tiny amount on your finger or better yet a small skinny paint brush. I also rub atf on the tc before sliding it in. Same thing for driveshaft.

Make sure the tc goes all the way in. There is a ton of YouTube videos showing how.
 
not sure if the application catalog is incorrect but I just looked up on RA for a 97 3500 torque converter. they show the same two for both a 5.7, 7.4 gasser and the 6.5 diesel. but the 98 model is different for the AC Delco GM. the reman unit shows the same one. there might be some markings on the converter thats on the donor tranny to help identify it.

hope this info will help you.
 
dbrannon79 said:
not sure if the application catalog is incorrect but I just looked up on RA for a 97 3500 torque converter. they show the same two for both a 5.7, 7.4 gasser and the 6.5 diesel. but the 98 model is different for the AC Delco GM. the reman unit shows the same one. there might be some markings on the converter thats on the donor tranny to help identify it.

hope this info will help you.
Click to expand...
Yes but we don't know if the donor tranny came out of a gasser or a diesel so the markings on it might not be correct for what I need if I understand you correctly.
I doubt auto zone or advance or any of them will have one it stock and will have to over night it... So maybe once I get the old one out I can check that converter for numbers to see which I need... That reminds me...are there any converters I should definitely not buy as far as brand and such?
 
The 7.4 gasser and 6.5TD used the same torque converter from the factory. It is NOT the same as the one for the 5.7! If you use the 5.7 TC, you will be most likely replacing that transmission and TC within a few months. That torque converter has a different stall speed and internally is not designed to handle the lower torque band and more torque of a BBC/diesel in front of it. When it goes poof, so will the tranny behind it as it gets pumped full of TCC debris!
 
honestly if there are any tranny shops in your area I would check with them on locating one for your truck. since you have it out, you might want to concider getting a heavy duty converter as oppose to the stock one. using the same stall speed as stock but better TCC lockup disc inside for towing. even ordering one from the local auto parts houses, you really don't know what your getting, most are reman. their catalog may also show the same converter for all 4l80e's mainly due to our 6.5's are a dieing breed most auto parts manufactures are starting to "use one for all models" aspect which is just plain wrong. maybe even overnighting one from summit after verifying the one you need.
 
Sorry I'm late to the thread Stoney. If you want to know a good transmission shop in our area bring it to Steuben Auto Service in Savona. All the small family garages around here send their transmission work there. Scott rebuilt my NV4500 a few years ago but I know he's well versed in Autos too should you want to have yours rebuilt and on the shelf as a backup (which I recommend as I trip over the spare one in my shop lol)

I've never pulled an auto but imagine it's the same principle- brace motor, brace tranny when moving trans mount crossmember, etc etc just be deliberate in taking things apart. I don't know if you can pull an auto without being able to leave the bellhousing on so can't speak to that. I also have to pull the exhaust crossover pipe when dropping my tranny which is honestly one of the more difficult part of the process on my truck.

having access to a good transmission jack makes the job SO much easier. Everyone else has made good points about making sure the system is flushed and whatnot. If it's your first go around just take lots of pictures/ video before and after so you aren't second guessing yourself putting it back together
 
@ DieselAmateur you just broke my heart...I have no way to get the crossover pipe off..don't own torch's and don't know how to use them if I did . I got a good crossover pipe from @ ak diesel driver awhile back..thought I had someone to change it...was sadly mistaken...still got the pipe..so guess I'm screwed for today..gotta find someplace to take it. BTW how do y'all flush the cooler and hoses? Gotta get a different converter cause this one is out of a 5.7l. They were nice enough to label it when they pulled it... Clayton says he has a 6.5 converter I can have.. before anyone says it, I know I'm screwing up using a used one, I don't have a couple hundred bucks to spend on this project...clay is fronting me the tranny on credit cause we're friends.. but I was out of work for a long time and just got back to work a week and a half ago .I get my first full pay check Thursday and it will only be about 400. (They can only give me 30 hrs a week) but I'm thankful to have a job..I'm already figuring I'll spend over a hundred to get fluid and filter and rearain seal ant front and rear tranny seals..but if I don't get it done quick I'm gonna loose my new found employment...so gonna have to cut some corners..
 
Soak those manifold to crossover bolts good before trying to loosen them. If they’ve been in there a while you don’t want to break the studs off or you’ll be pulling the manifold off too!

if you can get clearance for a temporary quick and dirty fix. You might be able to cut the crossover pipe off leaving yourself enough pipe on the manifolds to clamp a piece of flex pipe on there until you can have the time to pull the bolts out and install your other crossover pipe.
 
Ironically I was mentioning a week ago that I didn't understand why you can't use flex pipe for a crossover pipe lol..it's a 97 and best of my knowledge it's never been out so there rusted in there pretty good. Lol..when it rains it pours
 
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