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truck shutting off

A bad alternator or a bad ground can put a lot of electrical "noise" in the charging system. In some cases it can be enough to "confuse" the ECU or interfere with the signal to/from the PMD. Since the problen seems to be engine speed dependant, I would get that alternator checked... I wouldn't be surprised to see a (couple) bad diode(s). I would also look into checking the ground wires that go from the batteries to the engine. Those aren't expensive and pretty easy to swap out.

A quick way to check the alternator for bad diodes is to turn the radio to a frequency with no signal (AM is better) and turn up the volume. If you hear a whine that is engine speed dependent from the speakers, you definitely need to get the alt and ground cables checked. This trick won't work on all vehicles because some radios have good supply filtration. No noise doesn't necessarily mean a good alt, but any noise means the charging system needs to be checked.
 
Oh, and to your question about what capacity alternator you should get, I'd say go with your budget. Any alt over 100 amps should be sufficient to do the job, but in this case bigger is mostly better. Also: a quality 100 amp alt is probably better in the long run than a cheap 140 amp one.
 
My guess is that being a 96 he'll have only 100 or 105 amp alts listed. That's all was available for my 94. I got a CS144 alt and had to go to I think a 97 or 98 to find an optional higher amp alt.

The CS144 is physically a bigger case than the CS130. The main mount lug on the serpentine system fit perfectly for the alt. The top mount where on the older style non-serpentine systems the tension adjuster was located had to be modified. The stock strap metal bracket was dog leg shaped and I remade as a flat bracket.

The CS144 is physically deeper than the CS130 so I did a major remodel to the rear bracket. Kind of hard to describe so if you are interested I have pics of what I did. You could possibly even not have to use the rear bracket but I'm kind of picky about that kind of thing.

Don
 
Yeah im going to the gym first then going to get the alt checked, it really seems like alt to me cuz if i keep it at 70mph it wont cut off, and that tells me its charging but not real good on low rpms, also when i got the batt they were both fully charged so the truck ran good for about 2 days now the batts aint getting the charge they should there for killing the truck, but i could be wrong lol
 
got it tested today and the alt was only putting out 53amps and it calls for 100 or more so i got a new one but how the hell do you get the belt lose i tryed that little star thing and it wouldnt come lose and im not weak i work out every other day so its not me lol maybe its rusted and wont turn
 
got to take a 1/2 inch breaker bar put it in the little slot in the belt tensioner and move the tensioner and it will come out easy. it will take you 30 seconds to get the belt off
 
Got it in and found out the stupid guy that put my batt in striped the bolt so its not tight on there, so tomorrow im going to drive it up there and have them give me a new one or ill throw it at there front window lol
 
If You can do the work yourself ,You should. Including installing a battery! I think an auto repair manual for your truck would be good reading for you. I also bet that window will be pricey!! Good luck
 
In my case, I cut all those red plastic part that cover the connector. It is usually corroded. Clean it real good with wire brush.
Keep the bulging red part though since it is just an insulator.
 
I got lucky with mine got to em when still relatively new @ 37K no corrosion, kept em clean and coated with Di-electric grease over the years grit sticking to the grease externally is another story as you can see from the pictures :???:
 
Still cutting off on me seems like its getting really bad now but still if i keep in at or over 70 its fine i really dont get this thing
 
Have you cracked the T valve with the engine running?

Have you run 1/2 to 1 gallon of fuel out the drain while observing the flow?

Does the engine ever stutter or does it just shut down when it dies?
 
i did check the t valve and it seemed to flow good i didnt drain alot, i have a guy coming to look at the truck today and we'll see what he comes up with, next time it turns off im going to try opening up that t valve and see if anything comes out, i just dont get it i can wait 2 or 3 mins and i turn the key on the glows will flash and i hear the pump come on and it will start right up this things got a mind of its own
 
When your truck dies does it take some time before the wait to start light comes on?

Are you having wait to start GHost problems?

How many times do you hit the key before the wait to start light comes on?

Or do you just wait a minute or 2 and everything goes normally for a restart?
 
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