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Trouble... Won't stay running

6.5dragracer said:
no i havent put the turbo on yet...
Click to expand...
Monster 45 psi turbo ??? :nono: way too much for the ole 6.5, and FYI boost without fuel is just hot air you'll need some sort of post turbo cooling once you start spending sustained boost above 12 psi, you'll want more fuel via reflash/chip 1st.

What monster turbo you have that you are planning to put on it?
 
well i got it off a generator at work a while back
and the generator would make 45 psi at 1500 rpms so with the 6.5 it would make crazy boost at 3000...
 
Have you tried the PMD?

LP you said it is working. All grounds are good.

Try to check to see if you can meet with Leroy of PMDCable. He is there in Houston metroplex somewhere.
 
ok now i fixed that problem now i got some kind of fuel leak and its somewhere i cant see it its seems to be coming from the back side of the motor at the top somewhere?

does anyone have any sujestions???
 
Sure sounds like by the filter manager area, that or injector/ injector return line.

What did you do to solve your other problem?
 
Did you bleed your flt mgr after new lift pump? Is it tight? Is a new filter installed correctly? It sure sounds like fuel is leaking from the filter area.

Maybe you disrupted the old line that clamps to the back of the flt mgr when working the lift pump? Maybe its dry-rotted?
 
ok i just went outside and looked at the fuel filter and found it leaking directly under it but only when the lift pump is on or when the fuel system is under pressure...

how would i go about fixing it???
 
Well, flt mgr is held on with 2 bolts, then you should be able to pull it up.

Either the hose thats attached on the back needs to be replace, which is easy, as its just hose clamped on, spring clamp, from factory, 3/8 ID diesel rated fuel line.

OR, the heater bowl is rotted or the O-ring shot.

Your going to need to spend some time there and figure out why/where it is leaking.

Hopefully its just the fuel line. Easiest way is to get a length and go all the way to the hard line where it attaches to the lift pump. Leave about a foot or 6" after the LP and flare and hoseclamp the new line there. Depending on condition of that line.

If its the heater bowl, it may just need a new O-ring, or maybe a new flt mgr, you need to get close and intimate with the unit and figure out why its unhappy.

Did you change the filter recently? Perhaps its just not seated properly? Maybe the rubber seal on top of the filter isn't seated properly? Thats easy to do. And make sure the bleeder is tight.

Let us know!
 
ok well it was the o ring on the bottom of the fuel filter unit i replaced it and its not leaking anymore

but when i went to crank up the truck it started up ok and it was making a little whining noise and it just stalled out and now it wont crank up...

the t-valve is getting fuel so idk...
 
Did you bleed all the air out now that leaks are gone?

Open bleeder, and jump Lift pump until fuel spews out, and no more air, then tighten.
 
hey there was a lot of trash and dirt down in the valley of the motor and one of the fuel
lines fell down into it do you think that it got some trash in it or something???
 
6.5dragracer said:
hey there was a lot of trash and dirt down in the valley of the motor and one of the fuel
lines fell down into it do you think that it got some trash in it or something???
Click to expand...

I guess its possible... good news is there is a screen in the injection pump inlet, so you could just remove the hose and undo the fitting and pull the screen. Probably need to remove upper and lower intake though. NO big deal, just need new gaskets.

Next time you're in that deep, shopvac that crap outta there.

Are you sure you bled all the air out? Try again, jump the LP with bleeder open, until fuel spewing out the top, then close it, and try to start the truck.

You hooked all the lines back up where they belong, and no vicegrips or anything left to block fuel when you took apart the flt mgr?

I wouldn't think something big enough to clog the system shut would just 'fall in there'... but you never know. I'd double check everything else before removing that line.

You may be able to remove the IP inlet hose and catch filter without removing the lower intake, but i've never done it. There is a spring clamp holding it on to injection pump, you could open bleeder and blow air (breath or low PSI compressed 5psi or so) back into the flt mgr. Once the IP hose removed off the IP, there is a threaded fitting I think that pulls out of the IP and there is that catch screen.

Like I said, I don't think you'd clog that up just by undoing a hose and re-connecting it, but... Unless the open end of the hose dug into the mud like resedue of wet dirt from diesel....

Double check everything else... rebleed the system with LP jumped first.

There is a diagnostic connector hanging out past the underhood fuse box, has one wire. Just take a piece of wire and connect that to positive battery and it will run the lift pump, easy way to bleed system.
 
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