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TPS ? Fuel Pressure ? What You think ?

There also is a multi wire plug right below where the PCM mounts.
Any idea what that one is for ?
SnowDrift said:
Have you ruled out the ignition switch as WarWagon suggested? Mine was doing goofy things and I'd never have guessed it since the one I had was a new OEM part not too many years earlier.
Click to expand...
Not yet.
Got off work and there was hydraulic clutch components setting here for the MG.
Was going to install the new master cylinder but the mounting flange is a little thicker and made to original bolts too short.
Used them on the new fuel enrichener cable bracket so tomorrow will be new longer bolt time.
Got that bracket installed and supper in me then just too tired to move on.
Rested for a bit then got up and mixed together a cake for the step sons birthday tomorrow. He said thats what He wants. Extra moist chocolate cake with chocolate chip, butter, milk and sugar topping.
Going to check voltages at the 12 volt wires feeding the ECM and also check for loss of continuity on the grounding wires.
I’ll get on that this weekend. Not sure how much I’ll get accomplished, the son has his wifeys Continental X in the garage and installing a new coolant pump, located within the enjun. Whatta blitch to work on. 💩 POS ford 💩.
 
On youtube, looked up how to replace the ignition switch.
I think that if I’m going to do whats necessary to just get a look at that switch, I’ll just go the full route and replace it with a new GM genuine switch and harness.
Rock Auto shows the GM switch for, IIRC, about $110.00 before postage.
Oriellys shows the GM original switch for about a hundred bucks more.
Makes Me wonder if the RA unit is a CC knock off ?
I’m not sure if either site is a AC Delco authorized outlets.
Thinking I’ll call the Chevrolet dealer here and see if the switch/harness is still available through them and phor how much.
 
MrMarty51 said:
On youtube, looked up how to replace the ignition switch.
I think that if I’m going to do whats necessary to just get a look at that switch, I’ll just go the full route and replace it with a new GM genuine switch and harness.
Rock Auto shows the GM switch for, IIRC, about $110.00 before postage.
Oriellys shows the GM original switch for about a hundred bucks more.
Makes Me wonder if the RA unit is a CC knock off ?
I’m not sure if either site is a AC Delco authorized outlets.
Thinking I’ll call the Chevrolet dealer here and see if the switch/harness is still available through them and phor how much.
Click to expand...
If it's discontinued at the dealership, ask them to do a nationwide search for the part.

There used to be a webpage for that. I found quite a few discontinued parts at various dealerships and had them shipped.
 
MrMarty51 said:
I’ll see if I can find that page, just to have it.
Click to expand...
I don't know that the page exists anymore.
I probably posted about it years ago. Possibly before this page was up and running.

I know the link I had quit working. But I have had a couple dealerships search for me. And at least one, refuse.

All depends on how busy the parts guy is
 
jrsavoie said:
I don't know that the page exists anymore.
I probably posted about it years ago. Possibly before this page was up and running.

I know the link I had quit working. But I have had a couple dealerships search for me. And at least one, refuse.

All depends on how busy the parts guy is
Click to expand...
Probably not the same page then but similar. 😹
On their about portion of the site, it states that they most likely do not have the part on the shelf, but rather, on the shelf of a different GM dealer so shipping most likely will be delayed up to about 7 days.

26075995 - Ignition Switch 1990-2002 GM | GMPartsNow

Order Your OEM GM Ignition Switch (26075995) For Your 1990-2002 GM Vehicle At AN Affordable Price With Nationwide Shipping!
www.gmpartsnow.com www.gmpartsnow.com

Oh yeah, and the youtube video, just in case anyone would like to know how this operation is performed.
This guy even tells of what tools is needed.

 
MrMarty51 said:
Could a faulty VSSB cause the engine to die and then not restart until it had set for a cooling off period of time ? Like less than five minutes.
Click to expand...
The VSSB only controls the speedo. it takes the signal directly from the rear output speed sensor on the trans and converts it for use on the speedo. it does have a 12V power and ground to it but shouldn't effect the engine though it dose also send MPH signal to the ECM too.
 
MrMarty51 said:
View attachment 89113View attachment 89114No burns or bad spots within.
There is not one thing in the upper regions of the placement of the ECM that would have made rub marks on that cover.
ONWARDS ! ! ! !
After work that is. 😹😹😹
Click to expand...

Since your here ... inspect the harness connector solder joints (to the board) for cracking.

Do take the old ignition switch apart, but, only after you feel the problem is solved.
 
WarWagon said:
Since your here ... inspect the harness connector solder joints (to the board) for cracking.

Do take the old ignition switch apart, but, only after you feel the problem is solved.
Click to expand...
It seems to me that after disassembly, I figured out a non-destructive way to disassemble the ignition switch.

It didn't really matter. Every ignition switch I disassembled was charred.
 
Checked all the terminals in the three blocks.
Not knowing which terminals is suppose to be hot doesnt help, but, every terminal was exactly the same on voltage, 13.35.
A new code appeared. U1255, seems the ECM is looking for communication from another module.
No indication of which module though.
From what I was reading, ECM is expecting communication from a module that does not exist.
I probe lamped all the fuses.
In the end of the dash unit, probed those fuses too.
On the fuses numbers, the number 8 position, 10 amp fuse, labeled CRANK.
Whats that mean. There is no power to either side of that.
Whats that fuse for ?
Also, frum what I’m reading, the ignition switch could be involved.
Ordered one of those GM original from RA last night.
Now I’m also thinking that it would be a good thing to upgrade the ECM and have one programmed to that A-Team Turbo then eliminate the vacuum pump and belt.
Not sure about what to list for the tune.
Better economy but I dont want to loose power. I seldom tow any sort of a trailer but the opportunity could happen so I just dont know.
Maybe if I get an ECM in the cart and actually make the payment then the folks at Quadstar might give me a call to get it set up. Have the new ECM setting here but install the new ignition switch first then run the truck for several weeks or a month to make sure it will not die again then install the new tuned ECM and see how I’m liking that.
 
Yes I forgot about that, there is a re-learn procedure when replacing the switch or keys. iirc it involves a good battery and leaving the key in the run position for a period of time with the engine off.
 
you only had to do that if the truck had the optional security immobilize from factory. all it did was prevent the engine from running. you could crank and it would fire off but only run for a split second or two. there were two ways to tell if it had the option, the cluster ether had a "SECURITY" word light up or it had a single round red dot in the cluster. when there was an issue they would stay lit, otherwise they turn on for a split second during the key on cycle.
 
dbrannon79 said:
you only had to do that if the truck had the optional security immobilize from factory. all it did was prevent the engine from running. you could crank and it would fire off but only run for a split second or two. there were two ways to tell if it had the option, the cluster ether had a "SECURITY" word light up or it had a single round red dot in the cluster. when there was an issue they would stay lit, otherwise they turn on for a split second during the key on cycle.
Click to expand...
Mine has the split second key on cycle.
I have always wondered if that pig would ever give me grief.
Guess I better figure out how to reset it just in case it is the problem.
 
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