docdray
Oompa Loompa
with tubes and no fins to radiate heat off, I really dont know how much heat it would shed, not enough air flow through tubes.IMO, I think something with rapid heat dispersal is needed.
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So anywho thoughts on this Trans pan cooler ?
Mikey
Yes, you will have a positive effect with the pan. I would expect that the tube would help as it is lower in the stream.
The point is that it will catch the air, and the tubes force it to travel all the way across the tranny instead of just hitting the pan and diverting somewhere else in turbulence.
GM's stance according to the label they put in the door jam is to NEVER tow in OD, always put it into D. Now if you have 4.10's and stock tires like I have, your topped out at about 75 in D. I always towed in OD once I got up to highway speeds, and if I had an incline coming up I would slow down slightly to 65 and put it into D. If I didn't slow down to 68 it would hit the limiter when the torque converter unlocked and shifted to 3rd.
(1)
I have heard lots of conflicting stories about how to tow a trailer or haul loads with the 4L80E.
Some say just leave it in OD.
Some say run it in DD.
Some say Run OD till you hit a hill then down shift to DD then shift back up to OD.
Now i'm sure i'll hear a bunch more of these 3 claims again but i would like to know whats the Correct GM operating procedure for the opertation of the 4L80E ?
In a 4L80-E you can tow in OD. Only 4L60-E has the Tow in Drive restriction. Do you know why????? The EXPERTS here will know more than I.
I agree with the 3rd about leave it in OD until the trans starts to hunt gears. THis is more so for the engine than trans protection IMHO. I will reach down and kick out OD even with my ALLISON when I'm coming up to a hill I know it won't hold in 5th. It doesn't change the fact that GM took the time to put a warning label in the door jamb telling owners of trucks equipped with a 4L80E trans NOT to tow in OD. I and many others don't agree with it and towed in OD anyways, but GM's stance was not to(or at least for 95 in which case my 95 still has the sticker in the door jamb).
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(2)
Now for Fluid type is this better off on Dino oil or run with a high end synthetic Fluid ?
How often should the fluid and filter be changed in these units ?
What type of fluid exchange would be best for these units ?
If your Trans has over 100k AND has NEVER had the fluid changed many trans shops and even the GM 700-R4 Tech guide states to not change it.
Change the fluid How Often? Depends on the use. Towing in HOT temps, every year. Driving in Cool temps (Canada) once a year Drain the fill.
Synthetic or Not in a 4L80/85-E. Inside GM we had to change the pressure tables with one brand of car that used the 4L80-E. Higher Pressure.
Dex3 or 6? Do you know what the diff is???? I use Dex 3, change the fluid, brake clean off all the internals with the pan off, allow the brake clean to dry, reinstall the filter and fill to the FULL HOT mark with ambient temp fluid. (Think about this. In 4th Gear with TCC on, all the clutches are filled. Even with the post 95 case there is still a small amount of oil in the pan. An extra 1/2 quart won't hurt it.)
Oil is cheap, metal and paper clutches are not.
Dex 6 is only Dex 3 with tighter specs for the additive package. Dex 3 is 1/3 the price. The gain, to me isn't worth the price when I cnhange it every 8 to 12k miles. USE NAME BRAND OIL.
Um, I'm calling BS on your statement about DEX VI being DEX 3 with a tighter additive package. How can a FULL SYNTHETIC fluid be the same as a conventional mineral based oil? DEX VI is a FULL synthetic fluid of a LOWER viscosity than DEX 3 for longer drain intervals because it doesn't rely on an additive package to maintain it's lubrication and viscosity properties. I'm not a fluid expert, but even I know enough to know DEX VI is a COMPELTELY different fluid from DEX 3. As for when to change it, if it's never been done changing it coudl open up a can of worms. I myself believe in changing at least every 30K miles.
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(3)
Now how about the cooling of these units ?
Do these Trans pan coolers work ? Not really. spend your money on a Long Ind stacked plate cooler. a 12" X 12" by 1.5" thick
The extra 1qt in volume with flow threw cooling tubes ? Put a deep pan with a LARGE COOLER in front of the A/C Condenser
or
The extra 3qts in volume with cooling fins ?
Pans with tubes??? Take a Thermocouple and place it in front of the trans pan to measure the temp of the air. Then take a flow meter or a string and place it under a stock pan. The air flow is small and the temp that will cool this tube set up is around 150 to 175 degrees. this is dependant on air flow and ambeint temp. OIt is not worth it. Put your money on a STACKED PLATE COOLER or a Oil over Water cooler. Why not the tube cooler that is cheaper? They are 50% less efficient.
I made my own cooler after I had talks with the GM Cooling men.
Complete agreement here. The finned or tubed pans have proven little to no gain.
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(4)
Now is the GM factory Cooler mounted by the Radiator the best way to go ?
or
Should and after market unit unit be used ?
some say get the GM cooler and bypass the Rad.
Some say get the GM cooler and run it inline with the Rad.
Some say after market next size bigger than your gross GVWR inline with Rad.
Some say next size bigger than you GVWR bypass the Rad.
Whats the best setup For the 4L80E ?
I DO feel the radiator should stay inline because at low speeds you get no cooling from a liquid to air cooler. At least GM was smart enough to use a design for the 6.5 trucks to maintain coolant flow across the trans cooler in the radiator.
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