wyrmrider
Member
let me give some of your questions a shot and would appreciate any feedback-- retired service manager
(2)
Now for Fluid type is this better off on Dino oil or run with a high end synthetic Fluid ?
Remember than many "Synthetic" or "Fully Synthetic" is hydrocracked Dino OIl - lots of BS to wade through
Absolutely Best fluid is Allison Transend TES 295 and best Tansend style but better is CITGO QuatraSyn
why? TES295 is a Group III type synthetic mostly wheras QuatraSyn is a Group IV (PAO) V mostly Synthetic
why "mostly" some Group III is needed to better carry the additive package
Group IV and V base stocks are EXPENSIVE
I can't see what year you have but trans before certain numbers in 2007 took DEX III and later took Dex VI
do not use Dex VI in the earlier trans as soft parts go away
Dex III (even DEX IIII H) is obsolete- best is Certified Allison TES 389 certified or use MOPAR ATF +4 (which I like better than even DEX VI) but DEX III or DEX MERC or "MAX" change often
How often should the fluid and filter be changed in these units ?
Depends on usage low speed with Converter unlocked and big load is hardest
Transend works better when cold AND when HOT should last about forever unless plowing or similar
you can use it in your power steering-power brake unit also
any DEX III-VI, Mercon except latest and most Jap (Nissan K,J,S) etc
What type of fluid exchange would be best for these units ?
double change if old with some time between changes, change filter after second change, inspect OR
The dump, change filter then removing the cooler return line and flowing 2 quarts at a time till it comes clear gives you slightly more of a change but is a pita to do by yourself
.................................................................................................................
(3)
Now how about the cooling of these units ?
Do these Trans pan coolers work ?
IMHO not much- not enough airflow- but if you are off road a deep pan helps
The extra 1qt in volume with flow threw cooling tubes ?
or
The extra 3qts in volume with cooling fins ?
still gets hot but if you are on hills extra depth can help most trucks have a deep pan compared to cars
if you do get a aftermarket deep pan have a source of deep filters or why bother
...................................................................................................................
(4)
Now is the GM factory Cooler mounted by the Radiator the best way to go ?
or
Should and after market unit unit be used ?
there have been suggestions about a gauge
that said if you are into heavy duty use or live in very hot weather in stop and go or hills then swap out the factory add on cooler with a bigger one
I steal them off FORD trucks at pick a part- mount where they get air flow
some say get the GM cooler and bypass the Rad.
The Rad does most of the cooling at low speed
The trans can get hot without the fan coming on and the in rad cooler will still cool (and the fan will come on)
you need a gauge and a monster add on cooler
I would also NOT do it in like AK or MN
I have one vehicle with add on cooler only but have temp controlled electric fan on it
Some say get the GM cooler and run it inline with the Rad.
What is usually done I have one vehicle with inadequate radiator and not much room which has cooler before (to help the rad) and after (to cool the trans) works fine but a pita
Some say after market next size bigger than your gross GVWR inline with Rad.
use the biggest cooler you can fit- you cannot go too big
use a stacked plate cooler not a "tube and fin" of flat tubes (which look like a stacked plate sorta)
Some say next size bigger than you GVWR bypass the Rad.
Whats the best setup For the 4L80E ?
I'd add a transdapt oil filter adapter - regular big oil filter works fine
will save your radiator and cooler if the converter clutch lets go
(like it will if you run trick or type F fluid)
let me know if you are thinking of a "shift kit"
most do not really need one with this trans unless hot rodding or really hard use
(2)
Now for Fluid type is this better off on Dino oil or run with a high end synthetic Fluid ?
Remember than many "Synthetic" or "Fully Synthetic" is hydrocracked Dino OIl - lots of BS to wade through
Absolutely Best fluid is Allison Transend TES 295 and best Tansend style but better is CITGO QuatraSyn
why? TES295 is a Group III type synthetic mostly wheras QuatraSyn is a Group IV (PAO) V mostly Synthetic
why "mostly" some Group III is needed to better carry the additive package
Group IV and V base stocks are EXPENSIVE
I can't see what year you have but trans before certain numbers in 2007 took DEX III and later took Dex VI
do not use Dex VI in the earlier trans as soft parts go away
Dex III (even DEX IIII H) is obsolete- best is Certified Allison TES 389 certified or use MOPAR ATF +4 (which I like better than even DEX VI) but DEX III or DEX MERC or "MAX" change often
How often should the fluid and filter be changed in these units ?
Depends on usage low speed with Converter unlocked and big load is hardest
Transend works better when cold AND when HOT should last about forever unless plowing or similar
you can use it in your power steering-power brake unit also
any DEX III-VI, Mercon except latest and most Jap (Nissan K,J,S) etc
What type of fluid exchange would be best for these units ?
double change if old with some time between changes, change filter after second change, inspect OR
The dump, change filter then removing the cooler return line and flowing 2 quarts at a time till it comes clear gives you slightly more of a change but is a pita to do by yourself
.................................................................................................................
(3)
Now how about the cooling of these units ?
Do these Trans pan coolers work ?
IMHO not much- not enough airflow- but if you are off road a deep pan helps
The extra 1qt in volume with flow threw cooling tubes ?
or
The extra 3qts in volume with cooling fins ?
still gets hot but if you are on hills extra depth can help most trucks have a deep pan compared to cars
if you do get a aftermarket deep pan have a source of deep filters or why bother
...................................................................................................................
(4)
Now is the GM factory Cooler mounted by the Radiator the best way to go ?
or
Should and after market unit unit be used ?
there have been suggestions about a gauge
that said if you are into heavy duty use or live in very hot weather in stop and go or hills then swap out the factory add on cooler with a bigger one
I steal them off FORD trucks at pick a part- mount where they get air flow
some say get the GM cooler and bypass the Rad.
The Rad does most of the cooling at low speed
The trans can get hot without the fan coming on and the in rad cooler will still cool (and the fan will come on)
you need a gauge and a monster add on cooler
I would also NOT do it in like AK or MN
I have one vehicle with add on cooler only but have temp controlled electric fan on it
Some say get the GM cooler and run it inline with the Rad.
What is usually done I have one vehicle with inadequate radiator and not much room which has cooler before (to help the rad) and after (to cool the trans) works fine but a pita
Some say after market next size bigger than your gross GVWR inline with Rad.
use the biggest cooler you can fit- you cannot go too big
use a stacked plate cooler not a "tube and fin" of flat tubes (which look like a stacked plate sorta)
Some say next size bigger than you GVWR bypass the Rad.
Whats the best setup For the 4L80E ?
I'd add a transdapt oil filter adapter - regular big oil filter works fine
will save your radiator and cooler if the converter clutch lets go
(like it will if you run trick or type F fluid)
let me know if you are thinking of a "shift kit"
most do not really need one with this trans unless hot rodding or really hard use
