timing?

[iamdave0887]

i know it's a 6.2 diesel, but i know i'll get more help here where the experts are.

I"m wondering if the timing is off on this engine. It's a goodwrench crate 6.2. i know i've got at least one bad glowplug so that could be part of my fun cold starts. new fuel filter, new oil and filter, need to replace air filter but smoke is present with or without the air filter in.

My biggest problem is that when idling, even when warmed up(temp gauge is a tad before 200*) i'm getting a blueish smoke from the tail pipes(true duals). When i rev it i get a big cloud that burns my eyes since the wind loves to blow right in my direction at the time i rev the motor, so it's either unburnt or semi burnt fuel i'd think. it seems to run fair if anything. almost no blowby, i'm not loosing oil or coolant(since it's still smoking blue-ish when warm as well). The exhaust does not smell sweet and does not smell like engine oil being burned.

i pumped 20+ gallons of heating oil/off road diesel(dark red and smelt of ancient diesel and rotten eggs) from god knows when out of the fuel tank. replaced it w/ 10 fresh gallons of diesel 1/2 gallon of marvel mystery oil and a quart of lucas injector cleaner. I had the engine running off of straight marvel mystery out of a 1 quart bottle and it was still smoking blue on that.

I know the injectors are probably shot, so i'm planning on having my old 6.5 bosch injectors rebuilt and putting those in.

Anything you guys can think of would be great. i bought this thing so i can keep the miles off my red truck, as winter isn't very kind to it. plus this 6.2 blazer is slowly being claimed back to nature already(read big friggin holes all over) so that doesn't bother me.

If the IP is bad the PO has a few spares he's planning on giving me. i just have to go get them.

Thanks in advance guys.

 

[Ratman]

By the sounds of what you describe, the timing is too late. I am assuming it is hittin' on all 8.

The exhaust should be clean, and late timing will cause what you describe.

Try giving it a touch of advance, the exhaust should clean up. If not, then you may have injector issues, but I kinda doubt it.

You don't have to move the IP much, so scribe a line and only go about .030"-.040" off your mark (toward drivers side).

 

[DieselCash]

Got any pictures? I like the old Blazers! :thumbsup:

 

[Acesneights1]

The advance might be stuck in the pump. Try moving it to clear up the smoke. If it was an injector you would know which side because of the dual ex. OItherwise IP might be shot. IIRC there is a plastic gear in them that goes bad. As far as red fuel/heating oil it should have made no difference as long as it wasn't contaminaed. Heating Oil smells like rotten eggs due to high sulfur content. 6.2s runperfectly fine, in fact better on heating oil. i doubt that was your issue. If you need help let me know. I have swapped many 6.2 pumps. Easiest pump you'll ever do IMO.

 

[iamdave0887]

i think i found my smoke. oil's as thin as 5w30. fuel pumps leaking externally and the oil level is rising a tad bit. i think i've got fuel in my oil. it certainly smells like it. that would thin out the oil to the point where it coudl slip past the valve seals and cause my smoke yes?

i just hope i've caught it in time. i just put that new oil in less than a week ago too. :mad2:

 

[Acesneights1]

Get rid of the factory mech lift pump. Put an electric one on. You'll be happier you did.

 

[Matt Bachand]

You sure did add alot of additive in there, perhaps too much?

Compression test?

Just a few thoughts...

 

[bk95td]

definitly ditch the mechanical lift pump. Much easier to bleed fuel filter with electric. The olds diesels would fill the crankcase when the pump would start going. They would still run fine for a short time. Then kaboom!

 

[iamdave0887]

definitly ditch the mechanical lift pump. Much easier to bleed fuel filter with electric. The olds diesels would fill the crankcase when the pump would start going. They would still run fine for a short time. Then kaboom!

kaboom = bad. i hope i caught it in time.

it's never been driven when it was leaking fuel into the oil. just idled and revved a bit. i did turn it around in my driveway but it hasn't been driven any further than 20 feet or so.

Would a normal chevy block off plate for the fuel pump work? After reading how much damage fuel in the oil can possible cause plus the added benefit of the electric one, i think i'm headed down that road. I"ve still got the old LP from my 6.5 that put out very little pressure at WOT(~1 psi and 4-5 psi at idle). the 6.2 N/A would need much less fuel than the 6.5 TD so i may be ok yes?.

i just have to get the fitting's to stop leaking. any idea what the fittings for the LP are? I've got 2 in there that are the correct thread but it seems they are not the right flare end as they still leak a tad once pressure is built up in the fuel lines that are post LP.

 

[midniteplowboyy]

Should be inverted flare(like a brake line).

 

[iamdave0887]

Should be inverted flare(like a brake line).

Thanks. off to the parts store i go....again.

 

[iamdave0887]

ok i just remembered as i'm rubbing the sleep from my eyes, that the mech lift pump on the 6.2 has a pushrod that operates the pump off the camshaft. if i remove the pump the rods just going to fall down will it not?

any tips or tricks to get that rod out without turning it into a major disaster, or having to drop the oil pan if the rod falls down to the bottom? something about having that rod in there just sort of floating around or rattling around in the pan doesn't sit well with me.

 

[DieselCash]

ok i just remembered as i'm rubbing the sleep from my eyes, that the mech lift pump on the 6.2 has a pushrod that operates the pump off the camshaft. if i remove the pump the rods just going to fall down will it not?

any tips or tricks to get that rod out without turning it into a major disaster, or having to drop the oil pan if the rod falls down to the bottom? something about having that rod in there just sort of floating around or rattling around in the pan doesn't sit well with me.

If it is like the 350 it will fall out to the ground. See if I can find some pics of it.

Read this it may help you out;

http://www.classiccarauto.com/impala/how_to/replace_chevy_fuel_pump.shtml

 

[iamdave0887]

If it is like the 350 it will fall out to the ground. See if I can find some pics of it.

Read this it may help you out;

http://www.classiccarauto.com/impala/how_to/replace_chevy_fuel_pump.shtml

Thanks Marty. that article is quite helpful. Now to find a block off plate. i'm guessing it's like the 350 block off plate? the new fuel pump looks just like a gasser fuel pump, but i did confirm it's for the diesel. the old fuel pump looks the same, just coated in an oily/greasy diesel fuel mess.

 

[Acesneights1]

Just leave the Mech pump in place and disconnect it. The only reason to remove it is if you are going to use the turbo drain back off a 6.5. All 5.7 handgrenades go boom. Poor design. mY fathers's caddy ate two. ONe at 20k under warranty second at 50k no warranty. Pure junk. They where what turned people off to pass class diesels back then.

 

[iamdave0887]

update:

I removed the mech fuel pump, it was definately leaking into the engine as i tipped it and diesel came out by the pump lever. lever had loads of slop in it as well. The pushrod makes a nice paper weight however. :rolleyes5:

i brushed away some of the snot at the top of the IP and found the marks you spoke of Kenny. They look to be right in line with eachother, but in the dark i couldn't tell for sure. I think the cold advance is getting stuck a bit, as when i took it for a drive down the road i was fogging the neighborhood. Pulled back in the driveway, shut the truck down. disconnected what i believe is the cold advance(green wire that also goes to fast idle solenoid) and nothing changed upon restart. shut it back down and tapped on the area by where that wire attaches and the smoke cleared up somewhat.

I do get a tad bit of blue-ish looking(hard to tell it's dark out) smoke that smells like 1/2 burnt diesel at idle, but upon bringing the RPM up right off idle the smoke clears right up and the exhaust stays clear. My pickup was doing this exact thing, smoke at idle, right of idle and up the smoke was gone. injectors solved that one.

I put 2 and 2 together when i noticed a few things while under the blazer today. it's got wiring for a trailer brake system, a beat up hitch, 90K on the clock, and a new motor. I'm wondering if the guy that had it before the guy i bought it from beat the hell out of it towing, blew the original motor, dropped in the GM crate motor and reused the old injectors?

 

[bk95td]

I think the block off plate is the same as a big block chevy. Are you going to update your signature? Kenny: not all 5.7 olds diesels were bad. I had a 82 that made it to 370,000 miles before it blew a head or head gasket.

 

[iamdave0887]

help me guys.

i can't figure this out. i swapped my old 6.5L injectors(had a tiny bit of the leakdown starting on the 6.5) to the driver's side of the blazer's engine.

all glowplugs are in working order.

i checked the timing marks on the pump and on the case and they are right in line with eachother.

i cleaned that little valve for the return system like Dennis suggested via PM, and the glass "ball" is not stuck and moves freely. i'm guessing there's a spring in that fitting as i can push the glass ball back from the IP side of the fitting and it springs back. i cannot move the bead from the return hose side. One of a spare DB2 IP was the same way.

My problem is i still end up with this.

Here's a cold start but the camera didn't pick up outside too well, so i started the video again from outside the truck. The clouds of smoke stink like unburnt diesel. What's going on?

the thud you hear after the key is turned is me pressing down on the go pedal to set the high idle.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IO3RyZ-zBlM

Second video. The batteries died in the camera before i could get to the engine bay to video the shaking motor.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtjvCJL4G24

any ideas at all guys? Weak IP perhaps? this truck's sat, according to the title since 1998, but it's been run on a regular basis as the guy would take it around his yard i guess to circulate the fluids. has not been registered since then as the title has no evidence of the guy i bought it from ever owning it(the name on the title is not his and the date of the title is 89 with the original owners signature on the back on the "seller" line). I'm guessing that means he never registered it. There's no window sticker for registration either nor any evidence of one.

He said it smoked on startup only, but this much smoke has to mean somethings wrong. When my neighbor's come outside and go "what the hell is all that smoke" that can't be good.

 

[Acesneights1]

Here Dave, is te pics of my homebrewed IP tools. I later went and bought the Kent moore ones cause I'm Anal but it was a waste of money. My homemade ones worked just fine. The pic with the 3/8 bolts, you just stick a long screwdriver/prybar between them and turn.

 

[iamdave0887]

Here Dave, is te pics of my homebrewed IP tools. I later went and bought the Kent moore ones cause I'm Anal but it was a waste of money. My homemade ones worked just fine. The pic with the 3/8 bolts, you just stick a long screwdriver/prybar between them and turn.

do the bolts thread in or do they just sit there? if they just sit there i'm sure i can find something that'll fit the IP turning tool holes. There's plenty of room to get at them and i can see them plain as day.