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timing?

Just sit in there. Then I stuck a prybar between them n an angle to turn pump. You may not need to do this with a 6.2. I used to just grab it and muscle it. But then again I was younger and stronger. Now I'm old and fat....:)
 
Actually, I'm not even positive a DB2 has those holes anyway. The pics are of a DS4. I never had to use anything on my 6.2s except muscle.
 
I'll check back later. Price of Oil is going crazy so gotta go split some wood today. Like I said in the PM if you turn the pump alot and the smoke clears, probably the advance is stuck not that it helps. Still gotta yank it. If I had a good one sitting next to me I could do the swap in about 2 hrs. with air tools. it's easy. Do yourself a favor. Check the air cleaner studs, better yet replace them. I lost an engine due to a broken one.I would double nut the air cleaner so if the stud does vreak it can't loosen from the nut and fall into the motor. I am not the only one that has had that happen.
 
wait. I just watched your video. It looked to me like smoke was coming from one side only. Are you sure you don't have a dead cylinder ?
 
That starter sounds like crap. Did you put the bracket on ? Many many sad stories start out with "Help my block broke where the starter bolts up!!"
 
the hole in the block is full of crap for the starter bracket. the M8x1.25 bolt went in, but won't come out now. Takes loads of force to turn it. I'll have to get the bolt out and pick up a tap. The threads are probably trashed, it wouldn't surprise me at all w/ my luck with this truck lately.

The starter sounds like crap because i've got one big battery 1000CCA on it, now two in those videos. normally i've got a battery out of the pickup to accompany that one big one so i'm not always doing that, I"m not that foolish. although i'm an idiot for starting it as much as i have without that bracket :mad2:. I can't spare the battery for the vids only.

if i had a dead cylinder I'd have loads of blowby. There's a little blowby but not a boatload of it. one it warms up it runs on all 8 and drive really well. Even when i step on it i get a light blue-ish smoke from the tails when driving it. i really am starting to think it's the timing. The advance is the cylinder on the bottom on the pump that has the "arm" that rides on the side of the throttle where the TPS would go correct? that arm's moving with the throttle and the little piston is going in and out of the cylinder when the throttle is moved.
 
IIRC if the advance is stuck or no good the pump needs to be sent out but that was 10 yrs ago for me and I never really messed with trying to fix a pump. On those the only other thing I vaguely remeber was there was a check valve ?? on top that could go bad , had a small return line on it or something. It's been awhile. It just bothers me that your only seeing smoke from one bank. It should not be hard to narrow down. Either you got a weak/dead cyl or a bad injector. I'm not sure about mixing and matching long and short injectors. Might want to ask Bill H on that one. I can still mail you my old set from the Tahoe. You want them to go out tommorow ? No guarantees other than the truck ran fine with them. I changed them merely as PM given they had 160+K on them.(Hope I can find them :eek:)
I never really noticed the whole pre cup thing and I have had 6.2 ripped down to the block A few times but then I wasn't really looking either.
 
Acesneights1 said:
IIRC if the advance is stuck or no good the pump needs to be sent out but that was 10 yrs ago for me and I never really messed with trying to fix a pump. On those the only other thing I vaguely remeber was there was a check valve ?? on top that could go bad , had a small return line on it or something. It's been awhile. It just bothers me that your only seeing smoke from one bank. It should not be hard to narrow down. Either you got a weak/dead cyl or a bad injector. I'm not sure about mixing and matching long and short injectors. Might want to ask Bill H on that one. I can still mail you my old set from the Tahoe. You want them to go out tommorow ? No guarantees other than the truck ran fine with them. I changed them merely as PM given they had 160+K on them.(Hope I can find them :eek:)
I never really noticed the whole pre cup thing and I have had 6.2 ripped down to the block A few times but then I wasn't really looking either.
Click to expand...


if you could send them out that'd be great kenny. i swapped the ones form my truck as they started to have leakdown issues after the truck was shut off. they were kept clean too, so i don't know if my issue is the injectors or the pump itself. can't hurt to have something that was known good last time it was used.
 
OK As per your PM you said both sides smoke the same. The vid was kinda cut off but looked to me like only the left side. So that said if both sides are equal most likely the IP. That is how every one I had died, with lots of nasty smoke. These IPs were never designed to run on low sulfur or ultra low sulfur fuel so unless you religoiusly put additive in thier lifespan is cut very short.
 
yes aces. your correct. both sides smoke like crazy, even with a warm start but once it's been running for a bit the smoke clears up a tad, but never truely goes away.

even adjusting the timing a tad to the driver's side didn't help.

now that makes 4 DB2 i've got lying around. 3 unknown condition weather beaten ones(still turn freely however) and the one on the truck which is being a POS.

anyone have a good DB2 lying around? :mad2:
 
2 more videos. smoke is present more so on passenger bank after the original coughing like hell goes away.

i know my 6.5 injectors that i put in the driver's side had a leakdown issue(but once started there was no smoke on the 6.5), and it seems the ones i removed from the truck also had said issue but it was much worse. my 6.5 injectors that i removed have sat for almost a year in my toolbox in the boxes and plastic bags the new ones came in. i can't see the leakdown getting worse by them just sitting.

the difference in smoke from passengers to drivers side is significant but both banks do smoke constantly at idle. passenger bank smokes a bit(blue-ish unburnt diesel stinking smoke) when driving, but i can't get my driver's window down(damn power windows w/ no power) to stick my head out and check driver's side but looking through the back window it seems to be fairly clear.

thoughts?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6bylZ0cBuQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLsD3JrXupQ
 
well, My injectors will be on there way to you tommorow. I am not sure about difference from 6.2 to 6.5. To my knowledge Fuel Rate is really measured by the IP. Since these really are not "injectors" as we call them. They are actually "Nozzles". I would think mine should work but maybe someone else will chime in. given the condition of this truck and rough life it probably lived I would do a full blown compression test before I dumped money on an IP and assess the condition of the engine before you throw good money after bad.
 
i'll tackle the full comp test later on this week. i've got to get that starter bracket in before that and steal a battery, or maybe both from the pickup as they'll really spin the blazer's engine over.

might as well work on other things for now, like those rotted heater hoses that keep springing leaks. i hope the rad hoses are in better shape. those aren't cheap. :mad2:

Thanks again Kenny for the your old injectors. I owe you a drink at the next get together. don't let me forget.
 
Matt Bachand said:
Sure must be nice to work on that without a turbo in the way!
Click to expand...

i'd rather have the turbo honestly. It comes off easier, sometimes. ):h However i'm not without a challenge as the evaporator/heater core box is really in the way.

the #8 injector line is actually touching said box. This means it's gotta come out to change that final injector.

Hopefully once this things running correctly i'll get good mileage out of it. According to the RPO codes in the glove box it's got 3.08 gears and a posi rearend.

There's a mile of room around the IP however. i didn't need special IP wrenches or anything to loosen all 3 IP bolts and turn the IP. i needed 2 3.8's bolts to stick in the IP turning holes and a big screwdriver to use for leverage.
 
You'll need a crows foot for the IP lines at the pump though IIRC The bottom ones are a PIA. I don't remember having any issues with the a/c box and injectors but then again both mine had body lifts. I can't remember if you can pull the IP with the lines on but I know I didn't.
No problem on nozzles but careful offering an Irish men free drinks..Could be cheaper to buy a new truck...:rofl:
 
Acesneights1 said:
You'll need a crows foot for the IP lines at the pump though IIRC The bottom ones are a PIA. I don't remember having any issues with the a/c box and injectors but then again both mine had body lifts. I can't remember if you can pull the IP with the lines on but I know I didn't.
No problem on nozzles but careful offering an Irish men free drinks..Could be cheaper to buy a new truck...:rofl:
Click to expand...


Let me clarify. one free drink on me. :rofl: maybe two. ):h

no body lift on this truck. once running correctly it'll get the body work it needs and maybe a 3-4" suspension lift and 35"s. slowly build myself a toy to beat on in the mud/snow/etc.
 
8 lug diff an absolute must. 1/2 rears are junk. staion wagon brakes. Lose the wheel axle and all when they blow and blow it will. especially from the torque of a diesel. 4.10 diffs out of an old rotted 76 or so chevy(try to get dana 44 front )bolt right in and the ratio works nice with 35s . Tha is what my Blazer had. Boy do I miss it.
 
that's a given on the axles. they don't look too strong to me. I'd like DANA's under it.

iv'e got a buddy that's got loads of 80s GM truck's for parts. i'm sure i can get whatever i need for axles from him.

for now it'll get the smoke issues solved(i hope), 31x10.50R15LT's on it(I've got 2 practically new ones so i'm got to get 2 more) and driven as is once all fluids levels in difs and tcase are checked. trans needs a filter swap, fluid's a nasty dark red/brown color.

it's too bad the front tires are shot to hell. 33x12.50R15LT's. they look nice on there too.
 
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