• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Time for some rust repair on the Tahoe.

jrsavoie said:
One of the brands is slick plate. . . . Also works great on lawnmower decks
Click to expand...

Interesting . . . You use it on the bottom side of the deck? Presuming so, how long does a good coating last and what prep is necessary to apply it?

And, just saw an article where it was used to treat / rehab an exhaust manifold (after rust removal).
 
FellowTraveler said:
WOW, That HVAC air intake must be loaded with it too.....BIG PROJECT YOU HAVE THERE.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that worries me....especially after I rebuilt the HVAC earlier this summer. Actually after thinking about this a bit more, I'm going to try sucking up as much of the dust as I can with a shop vac before blowing it all over - try to capture the dust rather than force it further into the nether regions of the truck.
 
What extra dust? That just looks like it sat here in the desert for a month! Haha, oh wait, why am I laughing- that really takes about 1 year for everything here to look like that. We dont rust rigs because the dirt is a preservative. Haha - and yes guys I actually think I am funny and really do chuckle when i write these- my son was pointing out to me last night how dumb I am with my humor. Small minds are easily entertained I told him.

Take the leaf blower inside the rig. Close all the smaller vents and put the leaf blower to the big one to the right of radio. Blow all the dirt backwards out the intake vent.

The dirt in ducts is why I HATE that default setting always opens onthe outside. Windows aren’t default open, they are normally closed when people leave a car. Why should the vents default open? Park your rig and dont drive it a day or two while it’s windy. Then you get in and start it up to a face full of dust. Also why I hate electric controlled vents. I miss cable operated vents that stay where you put them. Rant not over, just suspended till I meet an automotive hvac engineer.
 
Will L. said:
What extra dust? That just looks like it sat here in the desert for a month! Haha, oh wait, why am I laughing- that really takes about 1 year for everything here to look like that. We dont rust rigs because the dirt is a preservative. Haha - and yes guys I actually think I am funny and really do chuckle when i write these- my son was pointing out to me last night how dumb I am with my humor. Small minds are easily entertained I told him.

Take the leaf blower inside the rig. Close all the smaller vents and put the leaf blower to the big one to the right of radio. Blow all the dirt backwards out the intake vent.

The dirt in ducts is why I HATE that default setting always opens onthe outside. Windows aren’t default open, they are normally closed when people leave a car. Why should the vents default open? Park your rig and dont drive it a day or two while it’s windy. Then you get in and start it up to a face full of dust. Also why I hate electric controlled vents. I miss cable operated vents that stay where you put them. Rant not over, just suspended till I meet an automotive hvac engineer.
Click to expand...
If it’s worth anything, you do make me chuckle and amuse me.

I was thinking: with all of this dust on it right now, do you guys think I could list it for sale as a “barn find” and sell it for a mint!?
 
JayTheCPA said:
Interesting . . . You use it on the bottom side of the deck? Presuming so, how long does a good coating last and what prep is necessary to apply it?

On the bottom of the deck. I used whatever they sell for grain handling equipment at Big R, Farm & Fleet or Rural King. I do not remember which store I bought the last from. Every brand I have used seems to work about the same. We've been using it for many years.

And, just saw an article where it was used to treat / rehab an exhaust manifold (after rust removal).
Click to expand...

We do a fair amount of mowing. Right now we have 15 acres to mow. It lasted about 1 1/2 seasons. I need to clean the deck and hit it again. You can tell it is still working to some extent.

I just wire brushed, applied rust converter as necessary let it sit a day or so and gave it a good coat of Slick Plate. Or whatever the brand was we used. Around here we call all products of that nature Slick Plate as that was the first product we used. Kind of like Crescent Wrenches and Never Seize.
 
n8in8or said:
Yeah, that worries me....especially after I rebuilt the HVAC earlier this summer. Actually after thinking about this a bit more, I'm going to try sucking up as much of the dust as I can with a shop vac before blowing it all over - try to capture the dust rather than force it further into the nether regions of the truck.
Click to expand...
I've been there and done that more than a few times......you have the right plan.
 
Will L. said:
. . . my son was pointing out to me last night how dumb I am with my humor.
Click to expand...

Record all of these moments and pull them out in another 30 years when it is his turn in the parenting bucket! :D


Will L. said:
The dirt in ducts is why I HATE that default setting always opens onthe outside. Windows aren’t default open, they are normally closed when people leave a car. Why should the vents default open?
Click to expand...

Try pulling a toad (flat-towed car behind a RV) and hop in it after an ~8 hour run. Just make sure the windows are open when turning on the blower!


jrsavoie said:
I just wire brushed, applied rust converter as necessary let it sit a day or so and gave it a good coat of Slick Plate.
Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks!

I need to pull the blades and sharpen / balance them anyway, so will add this to the task :) Am wondering whether this will help with keeping the lift from stalling around the center blade (which leaves a rough-cut unless I go super slow) when the grass is long and / or wet.
 
JayTheCPA said:
Record all of these moments and pull them out in another 30 years when it is his turn in the parenting bucket! :D




Try pulling a toad (flat-towed car behind a RV) and hop in it after an ~8 hour run. Just make sure the windows are open when turning on the blower!




Awesome, thanks!

I need to pull the blades and sharpen / balance them anyway, so will add this to the task :) Am wondering whether this will help with keeping the lift from stalling around the center blade (which leaves a rough-cut unless I go super slow) when the grass is long and / or wet.
Click to expand...
I doubt it will help with the lift unless the issue is caused by buildup.

I still get buildup, but the stuff comes off really easy. The underside of the deck remains much cleaner overall. A whole big bunch cleaner!!
 
The stall happens from a couple of things. Build-up is one where the reduction in clearance from the blade-to-deck decreases the space for the grass to move. Sheer volume of grass is the other where both the inboard and outboard blades essentially dog-pile clippings on the center blade in addition to what the center is trying to move. Sometimes it is both of those scenarios.
 
2 more rounds of sandblasting today to get some hard to reach areas I had missed before.

Then I disassembled that body cut I did earlier so I could blast the back side of it. I would like to thank whoever at GM that thought the foam in between the panels was a good idea - it’s been sitting inside for a week now and you could squeeze water out of the foam! At least use closed cell foam.

F22FC538-2E8F-4DDD-92B3-0733315A735F.jpeg00D21AE6-6D26-478B-AE84-F0F4C158B8A1.jpeg

Anyway, I got it apart and blasted.

3C7A928B-CBA8-4A80-8A1E-D45D9F3CBA59.jpeg

Here’s another tool I’ve been using for this project - a spotweld cutter. The drill bit in the middle is spring loaded so it just works to center the outer cutter that does the real work.

538C2121-4F57-4CF1-B489-DBCEE7D37B81.jpeg
 
Absolutely love annular cutters. Aka rotor broach /core drills.
Whenever possible that is the first bit to grab.

Mac Tools gives lifetime warranty on those just like all their other bits. Some individual tool guys won’t warranty stuff, but shipping them to corporate will get them replaced for free. Rotor broach is the brand Mac sells, so if you chip an edge, don’t chuck it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top