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Time for new engine

buddy said:
Cant wait to find out how it runs.
Click to expand...

Not half as much as me.

Have about a month to get it broken in so I can start pulling the trailer hauling hay. Got no desire to use the F600 to pull the trailer, it gets about 4mpg and I've got about 20+ 30 mile round trip trips to make.
 
:D:D:DIT RUNS!!!!!!!:D:D:D

As usual the truck fought me again today. Bought the wrong band clamp for the crossover pipe. Then couldn't get the fuel system to bleed. So I started opening and closing the bleeder valve when the pump was running to see if that helped. One time the idiot light for clogged filter came on. That got me to thinking. Dug up the instructions for the Walbro and it turns out I'd hooked up the lines backwards. :mad2::mad2: Turned the pump 180 and after about 5 cycles I had fuel.

Went to town got the correct exhaust clamp. Hooked exhaust up. And couldn't get oil pressure. It took 2 battery chargers and a bunch of cranking to get the pressure to show and to get oil to the turbo.

Hooked up FSD and attempted to start. Cranked 4-5 times with no luck so I started cracking lines while my father cranked the truck. After the 3rd injector it gave a little grunt. The next crank it fired up.

Warmed it up and timing is 10.5. Will go down shortly and try to get that set.

Also still need to mount the heatsink to the bumper, and replace wheel well and hood.
 
packratt said:
Talked to the guys at Heath today. They said sometimes the shroud needs trimming also old trans mount with new motor mounts could be a problem. Replaced the trans mount but the fan still hits. I swapped my stock fan, which has a smaller diameter, to the new clutch and everything fit. Sometime when I get a chance I'll do some major trimming to the shroud.

Radiator and coolant lines installed, so now its down to turbo, exhaust and fluids. I'm going to wait to install the wheel well until after I get it running. May be able to try and fire it up tomorrow night.
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Just curious what was the logic behind an old trans mount w/ new motor mounts potentially being a problem? Possibly the trans/engine being tilted back slightly if the old trans mount might not be holding the trans as high as a new one?

I could see a possible problem with flexi original motor mounts & a very stiff trans mount, if the engine torquing over twisted the trans more than a very stiff trans mount would allow. Just trying to understand as I've heard this before but must be missing something.
 
Its not a problem really, just an issue if trying to squeeze in a larger fan, because engine might tilt up raising the fan slightly, and there isnt much shroud clearance there.
 
The new fan is almost eactly as large as the diameter of the shrowd, which is 21 inches i believe, im sure a little sag is to blame, but i couldnt see much, i did the conversion and i know my tranny mount is shot, i can push it up and down, so when i get the new mount in my fan will prolly rub on another part of the shrowd, what a pita.....
 
SmithvilleD said:
Just curious what was the logic behind an old trans mount w/ new motor mounts potentially being a problem? Possibly the trans/engine being tilted back slightly if the old trans mount might not be holding the trans as high as a new one?

I could see a possible problem with flexi original motor mounts & a very stiff trans mount, if the engine torquing over twisted the trans more than a very stiff trans mount would allow. Just trying to understand as I've heard this before but must be missing something.
Click to expand...

My issue was the fan hitting most of the perimeter of the top shroud and having about 1/2" clearance around the bottom one. We felt that if the trans mount was shot the engine could be tilted causing loss of clearance at the top. Unfortunately this wasn't the case.
 
Just re-read the thread & realized you'd already covered the motor/trans mount situation.

On mine, it was the top half of the shroud that had the least clearance to the DMax fan.

I used a few washers as spacers in btwn top & bottom shrouds & used self adhesive weatherstripping to seal the gap. Then loosened all the bolts holding the shroud halves to the truck & pushed the entire assembly up to the limit of slop/tolerance in the holes.

That gave me enough clearance (~ 1/4" all around) that the fan hasn't touched the shroud so far. The urethane motor mounts limit the amount the engine can torque over. But I haven't had to start a seriously heavy load out in 1st gear yet, which will be the real test if the 1/4" clearance is enough.

Thought I'd mention taking up all available slop in the holes toward the direction you need clearance as it's an easy thing to try if you haven't already.
 
Got the timing set. Thanks TD.

Now all that's left is to button stuff up. Pick up tools, especially find my SK 1/4 palm ratchet and 7mm deep well socket that hit something and vanished when I dropped them while installing the injector line brackets.
 
No worries my friend, you got the number, don't hesitate to call again, glad it worked for you. FWIW all; he was using a 99 vintage cartridge MT2500 to read the TDCO, it's display is like the one I use and not same as a GM T2s display, -1.85/-1.94 reads as -5.0/-5.4 TDC on those scan tools
 
DD was suggested to me for mine.

I'm very happy with my Diesel Depot engine! :)

My only issue was the trucking company. But all is good.
 
No complaints with the motor or their machine work. Only issue is their poor communication policies as has been mentioned numerous times.

I opted for the 20:1 as it wasn't an additional charge. Have had no issues with it. Temps in low single digits this past winter. Started fine without plugging in or extended glow time.
 
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