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Time for me to join in as well.

bfourman said:
Looks nice! Don't forget to put your steps up before hitting the road or you'll add those to the to-do list :D
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I do my best to remember em, i've already caught myself just moving it around the yard forgetting em though. Gotta have em though as this sucker sits up high off teh ground due to the 8" I beam heavy frame and all under it.
 
Good luck with your new trailer Ferm. Check your tires. You will want to keep it under 65 mph due to the tire ratings. I think 65 mph is max for speed.
 
Pm me if you are heading through North Georgia, especially if you have any trouble, truck or otherwise. I am in Chatsworth, Ga, about 10-12 miles off I-75.
 
I'm ready to rough it now. Took the spare tire off the back and I'm gonna put it up front under the bed and built me a rack for the back of it and put my generator on it. I'm no fabricator, but I think it turned out pretty nice.
trailer5.jpg

trailer6.jpg
 
It was sure nice when we stopped to sleep at a truck stop and fired up the generator and had the trailer at 65 for sleeping. It does vibrate ab it mounted to teh trailer, but isn't unbearable. What shocked me was that it used less than half a tank running for over 10 hours of running the A/C. Also I was worried it wouldn't start the air on eco throttle, but with just the A/C on it runs at idle. It does idle up a bit though running the A/C and fridge on 120. It couldn't quite run the A/C, fridge, and the microwave though.
 
Don't know if the wife would let me get a generator, but I would consider running 2 eu2000 in parallel with a cable...

I'd like to have one just run the a/c for the dogs in the camper while we are rolling...would running a generator(or the a/c for that matter be bad for either if on the highway?

we always chill the camper the day before with the a/c set on 60 up until we pull out...on a four hour ride to GulfShores or Destin in 90* weather the trailer is at like 82* on arrival and that is bearable for the dogs cause it's a gradual warm up...but we plan on doing Disney's Fort Wilderness and that is gonna be a 10 hour ride...unless we board the dogs and leave them behind...thats just not going to cut it if the temps are warm outside...
 
It don't hurt em a bit to run the A/C going down the road. People do it all the time in motorhomes to keep them cool. If you have a 13,500 BTU roof air I would say a HONDA EU2000 with the eco throttle off would run it. Many people have to install a hard start capacitor for when the compressor kicks on(SUPCO SPP6E), but other than that they do alright. I wish I had a 2000 instead of my 3000 as the 3K weighs almost 150 pounds by itself whereas a 2K weighs 80 something. It sure is nice to be able to stop and fire the generator up and turn the A/C on and eat lunch in the trailer instead of stopping somewhere to eat lunch.
 
I know my father in law is a retired a/c refrigeration guy...and he's already told me I/we should install a hard start on the unit...I'd be hard pressed to get a 2000 even with the hard start installed, because you are limited in what you can run in addition to the A/c if your are limited to a generator only power supply...

on edit I have heard nothing but good about yamaha's generators...and it looks like they came out with an in between model...

a 2400 that weighs only 75#

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outdoor/products/modelspecs/475/0/specs.aspx
 
Pepperidge said:
I know my father in law is a retired a/c refrigeration guy...and he's already told me I/we should install a hard start on the unit...I'd be hard pressed to get a 2000 even with the hard start installed, because you are limited in what you can run in addition to the A/c if your are limited to a generator only power supply...

on edit I have heard nothing but good about yamaha's generators...and it looks like they came out with an in between model...

a 2400 that weighs only 75#

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outdoor/products/modelspecs/475/0/specs.aspx
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The YAMAHA sounds like a good unit, only drawback I have heard of is it is a bit lacking on initial starting capacity. They may have improved this though as that was when they first came out with the 2000 watt unit. I got the HONDA as I found it for $900 and it was only 2 years old. I had to put a $65 ignition module in it, but has been flawless since.

EDIT: it looks like the 2400 is designed just for running a 13,500 BTU roof air. Only drawback I see is I couldn't find anything saying they could be run in parrallel, so you would have just the 1 2400 watt unit whereas the HONDA's can be parralleled.
 
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Well just got back from about a 2000 mile round trip with her, and the worst problem was the milage. She got 12 running 60-62 through the mountains, 11 running 65, and 10 running 70 on the way home. My 3:42 gears are a hinder towing in the mountains, but she does good on thge flat. There is a dead spot per say running around 55-66 in her due to the lower gears keeping the RPM's down a bit much, and it makes the grade breaking(which sucks in an 01 OS to begin with) a bit lacking although I could go down a 6-9% grade without hardly using the breaks once the TCM stepped in and activated grade breaking. Looks like she's ready to head to La in October.
 
Glad to hear you're going to make it...

I have a question for you ferm since you seem to be really good with this stuff...

My rear tube bumper that holds the sewer hose tore a little on the pass. side at the top where the frame rail welds to it...

I have a curt hitch on the tube but never towed with it, but have a hitch haul with just the kids bikes on it and also the spare tire is mounted directly to the tube...

there are no signs of it being corrosion related...so I'm guessing it's a strength issue...

any idea if there is another thicker walled square tubing that will still have enough inner diameter to accept the sewer hose into it...it still has to be 4x4 because the curt hitch's u bolts have to go around it and line up with the hitch bolt holes...

just looking for ideas really other than maybe bringing it to a welding shop and have them fish plate the bumper in the area where the frame mounts/welds to it...

just want it to be strong, cause I'm seriously considering toting a generator on the hitch haul for long trips for the dogs sake...
 
Pepperidge said:
Glad to hear you're going to make it...

I have a question for you ferm since you seem to be really good with this stuff...

My rear tube bumper that holds the sewer hose tore a little on the pass. side at the top where the frame rail welds to it...

I have a curt hitch on the tube but never towed with it, but have a hitch haul with just the kids bikes on it and also the spare tire is mounted directly to the tube...

there are no signs of it being corrosion related...so I'm guessing it's a strength issue...

any idea if there is another thicker walled square tubing that will still have enough inner diameter to accept the sewer hose into it...it still has to be 4x4 because the curt hitch's u bolts have to go around it and line up with the hitch bolt holes...

just looking for ideas really other than maybe bringing it to a welding shop and have them fish plate the bumper in the area where the frame mounts/welds to it...

just want it to be strong, cause I'm seriously considering toting a generator on the hitch haul for long trips for the dogs sake...
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I've seen where others have welded angle iron across the bottom of the square tube to re-inforce it, but the stock 1/8" walled 4X4 bumper isn't going to be that rigid. I used 2X2 1/4" angle iron bolted to the actual frame underneath on mine to support my rack on the back. If you go thicker with the tubing i doubt you will be able to get the sewer hose in it, but you could go with a piece of 1/4" thick tubing and cut about the last 6 inches off of it and weld a piece of 1/8" thick to it to allow the sewer hose to fit in it as the coupler is the largest part of the hose. I'm probably going to get rid of my 3000 watt HONDA as it is just to dam heavy to go on the rack on the back. As for teh generator, I would just put it in the back of the truck if you don't have anything in the bed.
 
Only issue with putting it in the bed would be buying another shore cord and running it under the camper to the front...I still would need to fix the bumper, it'strange that it can't support a hitch haul with 2 kids bikes and a spare tire...
 
Paul: As far as something to store the hose, have you seen the PVC pipe that you can get and custom cut it to fit your trailer. You can attach threaded ends and glue them to the PVC pipe. It is much better than the bumper. Just a suggestion for the sewer pipe. As far as the bumper goes, you are best to get a custom made piece like Ferm says, and have it bolted or welded in place to the trailer frame. The stock bumpers on the trailers are very cheap and only for aesthetics.
 
Unfortunately the time came to end this chapter. Just got back from delivering it to the new owners. With the addition of a baby it just wasn't big enough for us to fit all of his stuff in, AND still have enough room for him to move around. So I listed it for sale On Monday, some wonderful person on craigslist kept flagging it over and over(guessing they didn't want the competition for there own ad), but regardless of all that somebody showed up Saturday and fell in love with it right off the bat. I bought it for $3500 2 years ago, put $450 into repairs and modifications, and ended up selling it for $3850 delivered(cost me $50 in diesel to deliver it). Can't complain when I got to use it for 2 years for $100. Now to start looking for a bigger one to replace it.
 
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