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The Cowboy Cadillac Revival

Well i Drove it around the block today:thumbsup: not the easiest thing to do with out the clutch working, im guessing that since i rebuilt the tranny the syncros are tight and it didnt want to glide shift very easily. still cant get the clutch to disengage. i didnt have a grease gun where the truck is at but i think the fact that there is no grease on the pivot ball (i cleaned it all off when cleaning up the bell housing) counld have something to do with it not moving enough. just a wild guess and it needs to be done any way so i will do that tommorow.

iv tried everything i can think of to get the thing bled:mad2:, iv bled it normally, gravity bled it, removed the slave from bellhousing opened bleeder and push cyl in and closed bleeder, borowed a vacume bleeder from a guy i work with but that wont work beacouse the bleeder on the slave isnt a normall style one. i was hoping that driving it a little would help but it didnt really and the only way to get it in gear from a dead stop is to shut if off and restart in gear PITA

Still have to make a TM for the Gm-5 that i put on but im unsure which way is open and which is closed on the vertical wastegate? i took some pics could one of you pleas tell me which one is with the WG closed
 

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With the lever down the wastegate is open. The vacume actuator sits on top. With no vacume it would let the lever go down.
 
I found the best way is to remove the slave with the line still connected,and push in and out on the rod. Have some one watch the master cyl to tell you when the bubles stop. Also do it slow,especially on the out stroke,or it can suck air.
 
well it turns out that some how i recieved the wrong clutch the one i got is for the later modle with internal slave cylinder. but it is all getting worked out.

i should have know better when it had the wrong style throwout bearing. :nonod: but i was in a hurry and just got the correct bearing thinking that something got mixed up in the wearhouse since the allingment tool was missing as well. i compared the clutch with my old one everything seemed correct so i installed it, looks like i was wrong:mad2: oh well im getting it all ironed out with the company i bought it from so no worries:thumbsup:
 
bk95td said:
I don't even put the thermostat in untill the engine is full of coolant. The newer engines I fill through the thermostat opening. No chance for air locking when there's very little air in there to start out with.
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I do the same thing with my truck every time i need to fill it, a gasket is 1.19 at napa, plus there is hardly any need to bleed, besides a tiny bit at the upper rad hose when it warms up.
 
chevyCowboy said:
It was a big relef when it started up. the CC goes under the wrench next! Thats the hope any way. once i get this clutch problem worked out this truck will be going in for the new windows and then it will be drive able again.
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I had so many things going on my old engine, but ever since i rebuilt mine ive had zero problems with it. I was so nervous firing it up for the first time, but i have since put almost 20k on the rebuild. Runs great however my beautiful paint job is already starting to rust in spots. I hate CNY.....
 
I found the best thing to do was paint the engine twice. Once with black rustoleum and then with color of choice.
 
ak diesel driver said:
I found the best thing to do was paint the engine twice. Once with black rustoleum and then with color of choice.
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I painted mine a total of 3 times on the block with the yellow from eastwood, but its the manifolds i painted with 1200 degree cast iron gray from eastwood. They are turning orange already...
 
I had some headers cerama coated and it only lasted about 6 months before rust bleed thru. Sent them back under warranty for a redo and same thing 6 months and rust.
 
Well it lives:D. iv put about 30 miles on so far and all seems well, except i have a driver side valve cover leak:mad2: not to big of a problem but i will have to take all the injector lines off again and the intake inorder to get the valve cover off. i was driving it this morning and it was smoking like a freight train and i was getting no boost and high EGT's turns out i had forgotten to tighten the upper intake down and the bolts and worked loose. the middle 2 where out and luckly they where sitting by the intake studs. tighted it down and i am makeing good boost. the GM-5 seems to spool much faster than my gm-3 did. not sure that my LP is working correctly though. i dont hear it, really need to get a gauge for it. i will most deffinetly install one when i have the intake off to reseal the valve cover.
 
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