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Ted's trucks

New rings?

Yeah surplus engines are low mile. Even high miles diesels are known to leave crosshatch on the cylinders.

Yeah what were the ARP studs sealed with?
 
Will L. said:
I would ask what they installed the studs with. Liberal amounts of Loctite is preferable. The arp crap will leak.
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Ive never had a issue with the arp thread sealer? I dont know the torque settings on the arp studs i here its 30 60 90 but that well over 110 ft lbs? And also i dont have the extra money to replace the studs and head gaskets
 
WarWagon said:
New rings?

Yeah surplus engines are low mile. Even high miles diesels are known to leave crosshatch on the cylinders.

Yeah what were the ARP studs sealed with?
Click to expand...


I dont know i hear arp sealer is junk ive used it on race engines with no issues? I also dont know the torque settings for the studs? Nor do i want to have to replace the studs and head gaskets. I haven't ran engine yet im waiting on some parts before i install
 
I've heard of guys going as high as 120 but they also started distorting the block around the bolt holes. I'm planning on going to 100 and retorqueing after it's had some heat cycles when I get around to my build
 
That is the same sealant I normally use on all my fittings, but on the arp studs most pro racing teams use blue loctite unless nitromethane- they use red. Most at home guys use the same sealant shown on studs- However, on this engine it doesn’t hold for everyone. Idk if it is method or why. One that I tore down helping a guy, it looked like he used enough but no way to know and he was unsure, so we did new headgaskets, blue loctite, new valve cover gaskets and flushed down the oil system with a couple 10 mile oil changes to be sure no coolant was in the oil.

The studs would be reusable many times, but the headgaskets are once only. So you could run it as is. But monitor if you get any coolant into the oil. If the valve covers could pop off easy like a gasser then it would be nothing to remove valve covers a couple times to ensure the sealant is holding up. But the injector lines suck to move.

Maybe some of the guys here that went through it can suggest best way to keep an eye on it? @WarWagon I know you walked that road.

The torque is always turn them on by hand. Then using proper pattern: 1/3 final torque; 2/3 final torque, final torque. For people that like to post torque, maintain the same torque, never “bump” it up.

On high compression engines like these, I have a tendency to hit max torque for the headgaskets. Now because the mains are a known weak spot, I shoot for middle of the spec.
 
Will L. said:
So you should do 30 in order. Then raise wrench to 60 and tighten in order. Then 90 in order.
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Right 30 60 then 90 i mis worded that last night. To be honest id be a little worried about using locktite that last 502 i build i tryed tge locktite on the head studs and failed and went back to tge arp sealer. Ive pulled the covers off granite its no fun on how the come off if youve ever pulled tge passenger side valve cover off a crown vic 4.6 without removing fender and inner femder then you'll understand lol.

Ill keep a eye on it ill be installing engine next weekend so ill make another post on the build it self and then one of the old engine which i think is a optimizer as well cause of the dots on the sides in the valley and the drain hole unless its a knock off?
 
The endless roads casting in the valley that look like 2 triangles back to back is the fastest identifying mark. So is the casted number julian date code on right rear of block newr head.
The drain hole and the dots are not identifying it as optimizer, some gm blocks had those also.
 
Will L. said:
The endless roads casting in the valley that look like 2 triangles back to back is the fastest identifying mark. So is the casted number julian date code on right rear of block newr head.
The drain hole and the dots are not identifying it as optimizer, some gm blocks had those also.
Click to expand...

Thats true. At lease the new oneis a navistar
 
SS Diesel is a poor choice. Bad rep and no warranty because it's always your fault. Google reviews...

Cloyes is a good chain, but, it will be streached in 30k miles due to IP shock loads. Retime ip often. The gear set is the only upgrade to stop this GM cheap design flaw.
 
WarWagon said:
SS Diesel is a poor choice. Bad rep and no warranty because it's always your fault. Google reviews...

Cloyes is a good chain, but, it will be streached in 30k miles due to IP shock loads. Retime ip often. The gear set is the only upgrade to stop this GM cheap design flaw.
Click to expand...


What about the melling one?

Also this engine was a center mount turbo setup am i going to be able to use my intake?
 
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