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strange ticking noise what'd i break?

now you're halfway there. you know what it is. aren't the just in sleeves in there?

Adjusters? I don't see any adjusters. I"ll go back out and look again however. Wish i had batteries for the damn camera......:pissed:
 
not sleeves as in adjusters. sleeves as in a bushing.

by the way. the only adjusters are hydraulic ones. no adjusting them :D
 
Ok on further inspection, and info from MGW, the back and forth motion of the rockers seems to be normal.

However my buddy noticed that the #1 cyl's exhaust rocker could be pushed on(pushrod side) and it would move. Looks like i've found my problem. he said the gap was more that it should be. I"m guessing this indicates a non pumped up lifter?

What to do next? Pull the lifter out or should i button the ol girl backup and just run it to see if the lifter gets cleaned out with the fresh oil i put in?
 
for just one lifter I'd pull it apart and see if I could clean it up

you mean pull the lifter out?

Can the lifter be pulled out through the head after the retaining plate is removed? I really don't want to pull the head for one lifter.
 
I've pulled lifters through the pushrod slot. ya need a GOOD magnet wand, preferably with a side shield. just pull the retainer, and the shield, and it slides right out..., assuming the motor is not TOOO gunked up.
 
Anyone know where i can get one lifter? I'll try to pull it out later on and see if it's just sludgy or if it's actually no good.
 

I haven't messed with it since removing the valve cover and finding my issue. It seems like the lifter's got some varnish or sludge in it. I don't think the lifter is physically bad. I'm going to work the pushrod side of the rocker to see if i can free up the lifter. I really can't afford to do anything else. I'm so broke i don't even know if i can afford a test drive after getting it all back together.

Still got any work Kenny? I"ll take whatever i can get now, i don't care how far a drive it is.
 
I'm actually slow this week. friggin warm weather is killing me. I was seriuos, the town has an opening but you must have a CDL B.

I don't have a CDL. Damn....

I did a little more work on the blazer today. I took the handle end of my, i'm guessing plastic, dead blow hammer and tapped the pushrod end of the rocker a few times, making usre to not beat the daylights out of it. After that i removed and reinstalled the Rocker shaft after checking to make sure the #1 exhaust pushrod was straight, and it is straight. Now everything seems to be nice and tight. I wonder if i freed the lifter up?

I went by the torque specs in my 6.5TD book for the rocker shaft which said 37-44 ft lbs, so i set the torque wrench at 41 or 42 ft lbs.

The lifter looked ok and the lifter's "guts" didn't look damaged or anything.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I'll be re-assembling everything tomorrow i think.

I did notice that both ends of the pushrod seemed to be the same color, but it was dusk out and i was under halogen worklights which probably didn't help. When i removed the pushrod i left finger prints in the oil residue. I used the finger prints as a "guide" as to which side was facing up. Crude yes, but i can't see getting finger prints on the side of the pushrod that was in the block when i didn't touch it. But with my luck. :rolleyes5:
 
when in doubt about a pushrods striaghtness I usually roll it on a piece of glass.

I roll the pushrod on a flat steel storage box top with a shop towel in between the box and the pushrod, so i didn't have any risk of getting the pushrod dirty.

It seemed to be perfectly straight.
 
Be careful, the pushrods on these can only go one way.
There is a copper color on one end (Ball) and this goes to the rocker. Getting the pushrods in backwards will result in rapid wear and failure of the rocker and the pushrod.

One end of the pushrod is hard the other is not.


Good luck


Missy
 
Be careful, the pushrods on these can only go one way.
There is a copper color on one end (Ball) and this goes to the rocker. Getting the pushrods in backwards will result in rapid wear and failure of the rocker and the pushrod.

One end of the pushrod is hard the other is not.


Good luck


Missy

Both ends looked to be the same color, but again i was in a low light situation. I went by the finger prints i left at the "top" of the pushrod when i removed it as that's the only part i touched. I put it back in with the side that had fingerprint facing up again. The pushrod went back in the same way it came out.

The pushrod and rocker looked pretty much new, save for the oil residue showing the motor was run.
 
Well everything's back together.

It runs, but the ticking is still there. I'm going to run it for a little bit and get it up to operating temperature with the fresh oil and see if that clears it up.

I found no physically damaged parts when i had the valve cover off. I guess the lifter could just have some varnish on it or in it. Time will tell i suppose. Have to replace the GP controller before driving it any. The one on there has a huge crack in the housing. :mad2:
 
I would have chaged it although Cam and lifters are married so changing just a lifted can actually wipe the cam lobe. Not sure if that hold with Roller lifters .
 
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