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strange ticking noise what'd i break?

Acesneights1 said:
or a bolt you may have forgotten to tighten on the clutch assmby....Hmmm...Did you check your aircleaner studs ?
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Studs are both there. not sure if i broke one or not. i'll check. I swear i tightened everything under there. i remember double and triple checking things before i slid the trans into place.

Everything was torqued to the specs too.

grrrrr......what in the hell could it be? :mad2:

You never had any ticking with those old injectors in the tahoe kenny? There were like 160K on them right? The thing that bugs me the most is that its done this ticking crap before but it's always gone away.

Could the oil just be nasty? it did get black pretty quick. when i put the oil in, the cooler and lines were empty. i wonder if the oil's just nasty and some sticky/sludgy crap got stuck somewheres and is causing my problem?
 
Another thing just crossed my mind.

I was burning off that old heating oil that was in the tank for probably 10 years when i bought the truck. it was mixed with fresh ULSD but the truck did smoke at idle w/ that stuff in it. i wonder if that stuff helped gum up an injector?
 
uh-huh... sounding like you need to go loosen off your injectors, one at a time, like Kenny suggested.

And put BIG blocks around your wheels... :D

If the truck rolls over you, we want pictures!
 
JiFaire said:
uh-huh... sounding like you need to go loosen off your injectors, one at a time, like Kenny suggested.

And put BIG blocks around your wheels... :D

If the truck rolls over you, we want pictures!
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if the truck rolls over me and i live i'll be impressed. ):h

i've got foot tall solid concrete blocks behind the wheels now.

I"ll loosen off the injectors tomorrow. It's dark, and i've already got one knuckle buster from loosening the driver's side front injector. no change with that injector line loosened other than a miss from that cylinder.
 
It's no fun getting run over by your own truck...Ask me how I know. The brown one in my photo album ran me over with the plow on. Heating Oil will not hurt the engine. In fact aside fro legal implications , it's actually better for it.
 
Acesneights1 said:
It's no fun getting run over by your own truck...Ask me how I know. The brown one in my photo album ran me over with the plow on. Heating Oil will not hurt the engine. In fact aside fro legal implications , it's actually better for it.
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Even old slimy heating oil? this stuff was NASTY. It left a film on everything.
 
update:

Cracked each injector line loose save for the rear most on the passenger side as i couldn't reach it. Damn A/C box in the way and after the truck almost running me over last night i really don't want to crawl under it while it's running just yet.

With each injector line cracked one at a time i would get a miss in each cylinder, but the tap was still there. It seemed to softened up a little with the driver's side front most cylinder but was still present but the sound of the miss and the engine shaking could've just made it seem quieter.

I grabbed a piece of brake line to make a make-shift mechanic's stethoscope and touched each injector when they were all hooked back up, and all 8 sounded pretty much the same. Then i touched the passenger side valve cover with the brake line "stethoscope", all sounded normal in there. I just heard the sounds of everything moving in there. Checked the driver's side and lo and behold there was a fairly noisy tick tick tick tick tick going on in there.

Looks like I'll be pulling the valve cover off on the driver's side at some point today or tomorrow. Hopefully it's just a rocker arm retainer that let go, and nothing major that failed.

i checked the oil again and there seems to be a slight grit to it, but it's not shiny like metal would be. It was black, like soot.

The story behind the oil is as follows. When i bought the truck, there was no oil in it. The previous owner drained the engine oil out on the day i went to look at it. The oil was still draining when i got there. I put fresh oil(Warren's heavy duty 15w-40) in and a fresh filter on(Delco filter).

Soon after the oil started to really thin out, and i couldn't figure out why, until i smelled the oil. I smelled diesel in it. Sure enough the mech fuel pump was leaking into the oil. Drained that oil out, junked the filter(the oil/filter was only in there a week at most). Junked hte mech fuel pump and put a block off plate in it's place and a 6.5 electric LP was wired in. Poured in fresh Rotella T 15w-40 and put another delco filter on. That was just short of 1,000 miles ago(and maybe 2-3 months) and the same rotella T is still in the engine today.

Could that first oil fillup that ended up all diesel-y, have free'd up a bunch of crap in the motor that was a result from it sitting for over a decade? I wonder if the oil filter is plugged up full of crud and has been being bypassed and the crud's just plugged something up? If the crud plugged up a lifter it would go flat and therefore i'd have a space at the top of the pushrod where it meets the rocker arm. That extra gap could be causing my ticking noise couldn't it?
 
Missy Good Wench said:
You may have lost a rocker arm button on that side.

Krrp us posted
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Hey MGW,

You've got loads of 6.x diesel experience. Have you ever heard one with a rod knock? How loud is it? the sound I'm getting is about the same volume as the diesel rattle. i can hear it best when the motor is winding down after a rev. I noticed that after i rev it up a good bit sometimes it'll stall after i did the injector test. I guess i got air in the lines?
Thanks
 
A rod knock will most generally be associated with a loss of oil pressure too especially at low speeds HOT

The pistons in these come to within about .040" of the head, so the loss of a bearing can cause the piston to smack the head too.

A rod knock will be at crank speed, is your "TICK" at crank speed or cam speed (1/2 crank) ??????

Does the engine run smooth???

A rocker button thats failed and allowed the rocker to slip off the valve will cause a miss on the cylinder involved and also a nasty shake.

Rod bearing failure is a nasty hard thuding noise that will not usually be heard up top.

First tell us if the noise is at cranks speed or ccam speed.


Missy
 
Missy Good Wench said:
A rod knock will most generally be associated with a loss of oil pressure too especially at low speeds HOT

The pistons in these come to within about .040" of the head, so the loss of a bearing can cause the piston to smack the head too.

A rod knock will be at crank speed, is your "TICK" at crank speed or cam speed (1/2 crank) ??????

Does the engine run smooth???

A rocker button thats failed and allowed the rocker to slip off the valve will cause a miss on the cylinder involved and also a nasty shake.

Rod bearing failure is a nasty hard thuding noise that will not usually be heard up top.

First tell us if the noise is at cranks speed or ccam speed.


Missy
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The lowest my oil pressure hit was in between 20 and 40 on the gauge at idle. If i just touched the go pedal the pressure would come back up and would keep rising to just over 40 psi. Last night after i let it cool from normal operating temp i fired it back up and had 60 psi of oil pressure, but the tick was still present. Same goes for letting it sit over night. 60 psi cold oil pressure this morning, but the tick was still present.

Honestly i'm not 100% sure on engine speed as this is my first time with a noise like this. However it doesn't sound like it's at full engine speed. it sounds like it's at 1/2 speed, which would indicate cam speed.

The engine does not shake or misfire except when i crack an injector line loose. it runs as smooth as it always has.

If a lifter was plugged with junk, would that cylinder still fire?

This noise is heard best up top it seems, but after almost getting run over by the truck last night i haven't summed up the courage to go under it again just yet.

I can also hear this noise in the cab, not sure if that matters. I should see if i can find some batteries for my camera and take a quick video.
 
If the engine has/had been apart and the pushrods installed backwards they can wear quickly and then cause a lot of noise.

The pushrods on these engines are a direction specific part.

One end is hardened and it is colored a copper color, this end goes to the rocker.

Many times these get installed backwards.

Missy
 
Missy Good Wench said:
If the engine has/had been apart and the pushrods installed backwards they can wear quickly and then cause a lot of noise.

The pushrods on these engines are a direction specific part.

One end is hardened and it is colored a copper color, this end goes to the rocker.

Many times these get installed backwards.

Missy
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as far as i know this motor was never messed with. It's a goodwrench crate so unless it was messed up at the factory?

I drained the old oil into a clear catch pan and put fresh rotella T 15w-40 in. I didn't see any metal pouring out so that's a good sign i suppose. The oil was black as all hell. After less than 1,000 miles that surprises me a tad bit considering all the oil going in was fresh as there was no oil in the cooler/lines.

The old oil left a sludge like stuff at the bottom of the drain pan. it wasn't "deep" sludge, but it wasn't really oil anymore, it was nasty stuff though.

I"ll be pulling the driver's valve cover tomorrow regardless. Should i just drive it easy around my place to see if the ticking goes away?
 
I worn/collapsed lifter or cam lobe doesn't always cause a bad miss, atleats not right away. So far you are describing what sounds to me like valve train. Sorry I didn't call back But I was playing Dog , The Bounty Hunter in town today(long story will post in off tpoc later). Remove the valve cover. Look for the obviuso, anything looser than it shuld be. If you can't find anything I wuld put the Inj lines back on and the Manifold with maybe two bolts or so and start it up with valve cover off. Of course the tricky part is it's going to be messy and the 4 inj will have air and the truck will run like Poo. Missys"spinning the motor over with glows out" on that side may not be a bad idea. Never tried it but sounds good to me. Once you get it to behave you'll need to go along with the truck idling and put pressure on each lifter , on the cam side of the rocker, with a piece of wood or something and see if the noise goes away. I will tell you that this procedure is typically used on a gasser but in theory I think it should work on a diesel but I would still seriuosly check the crap out of it for ex leaks first. ex leaks can sound like a nasty Valve train noise for sure. If you had an old valve cover laying aaround you could cut the center out of it and put it on for test purposes.
 
Ok i got the driver's side rocker cover off today.

Upon checking the rockers i noticed that cylinder 1's exhuast valve rocker was loose. I could move it side to side easily. Then i checked cylinder 3's rockers and lo and behold the intake for cyl 3 was loose too. I can move this one side to side as well. I checked the rocker retainer buttons, and on both of the above mentioned cylinders i can rotate the buttons around with 2 oily fingers(almost no grip on them), so they are loose. All the other rockers do have a tiny bit of side to side movement but it's minimal compared to the rockers on the exhaust of cyl 1 and the intake of cyl 3.

I'm guessing i've found my problem?

Also the rocker buttons are a brown-ish color. Shouldn't they be white?

On an upside everything seems to be clean under the rocker cover. no sludge that i could see.
 
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