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Stalling / Smoke

R

Rodd

Recruit
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Location
Antelope, CA
While my son was driving the 98 burb yesterday it started stumbling, smoking, and stalling. He had 2 pmd's that he swapped out and it continued. Also as he was driving the coolant temp climbed to 220-230 range driving through town. It was about 110 degrees. I bought a new PMD today and it works but still smokes. I took some video and will post them here shortly. The motor is louder that normal. Not much smoke at idle but when it is shifted into gear the engine bogs down and smoke starts to come from between the turbo and downpipe union. I know the turbo needs a rebuild but I'm thinking the soot trap may be clogged. What do you think?
 
Will L. said:
Clear return line look ok? Fuel clean?
Open the exhaust and see the difference to see if your soot trap is plugged.
Click to expand...
The fuel is good. No bubbles. Another reason I think it's probably plugged is the black smoke coming out of the tailpipe Is dark but there isn't enough coming out for the amount that the accelerator is being pushed. To open it up do you just unbolt at the downpipe and shine a light up the pipe?
 
Just unbolt the exhaust pipe before it gets to the muffler/ soot trap whichever is first.
Then use bailing wire, metal clothes hanger, etc to tie the two pieces up from the ground and away from each other. Then test drive.

If that solves the problem- you have a plugged soot trap and or muffler.
Act accordingly in replacing or bypassing them as you and your local e, p, & a personnel decide.

If you do this test and it does not have a problem- the search continues.

I am running on little sleep last 2 days- can’t remember-
Make sure you checked air filter not restricted and getting proper boost from turbo if you have not already done so.

Oh yeah- critical:
Make sure black smoke smells like exhaust not oil.
 
Any codes present? What's the VIN i.e. F or S motor. I've had issues (S vin) with the mass airflow sensor in the past while using a K&N air filter. If so, sensor can be cleaned using carb and choke cleaner. I now use a regular cartridge air cleaner.
 
Will L. said:
Just unbolt the exhaust pipe before it gets to the muffler/ soot trap whichever is first.
Then use bailing wire, metal clothes hanger, etc to tie the two pieces up from the ground and away from each other. Then test drive.

If that solves the problem- you have a plugged soot trap and or muffler.
Act accordingly in replacing or bypassing them as you and your local e, p, & a personnel decide.

If you do this test and it does not have a problem- the search continues.

I am running on little sleep last 2 days- can’t remember-
Make sure you checked air filter not restricted and getting proper boost from turbo if you have not already done so.

Oh yeah- critical:
Make sure black smoke smells like exhaust not oil.
Click to expand...
Thanks! That's what I figured. It smells like exhaust. I took the filter box off and the issue was still present.
 
Wreckinball67 said:
Any codes present? What's the VIN i.e. F or S motor. I've had issues (S vin) with the mass airflow sensor in the past while using a K&N air filter. If so, sensor can be cleaned using carb and choke cleaner. I now use a regular cartridge air cleaner.
Click to expand...
The only code is a boost code that has to do with the turbomaster. It occasionally comes on when you get on it. It is an F code, no sensor.
 
I would take a sawzaw to the back side of the soot trap so you can access it from the inside. jam a steel bar you can beat on with a hammer to "rod it out" then before reconnecting the pipe, fire it up and blow all the crap out so it doesn't get trapped in the muffler or lodged in the pipe further down creating another restriction. then get you a short piece of exhaust union pipe and a couple of clamps to put it back together. you might even get away with a simple band clamp without the union.

the main thing is when you rod it out, you don't want the pieces getting further down the pipe lodged somewhere or have a never ending rattle from the muffler.
 
Thanks guy's. My son just separated the downpipe and it fixed the problem. So the cat is clogged. He is taking it to work to clean out the cat and reinstall. The good thing is it has the original muffler as well. So he's going to disconnect at muffler and it's only about 6" to the cat and it's a straight shot. So he can drill it and clear it out the reconnect. That way when they inspect it it will look stock.
 
Well it isn't 100% yet. With it open at the downpipe it doesn't stutter or spew smoke anymore. However my son noticed something while driving it. When it is in reverse or drive it bogs down at idle when the A/C is on and the RPM's drop and it stalls. It's perfect when the a/c is off. If he shifts to neutral / park or hits the accelerator while in drive at a stop light to keep the RPM's up it wont stall. I told him to replace the fuel filter since it has been about a year since he last replaced it. I would think though, that if it were the filter it would stall or sputter driving at freeway speeds. What do you guys think?
 
Need to get the clear hose on the return line off the IP and look for bubbles in the fuel system. also need to verify the LP is in fact supplying fuel pressure to the IP. get you a pressure gauge installed at the IP inlet and watch fuel pressure at idle and then how it acts when it is bogging down. You could be loosing the LP intermittently, which will also in-turn allow the IP to bring the lines back to the tank into a vacuum and or suck air into the system.

not to mention a possible clogged sock on the pickup tube in the tank. if someone has ever had the tank down, possibly replaced the sock with one not made for diesel or has the factory one that's just clogged. this can also cause the same thing as a failing LP. can also kill the LP and IP too.
 
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