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Stall - No Start

Will L. said:
Imo pulling the plugs before the engine is worth the effort.

No. You won’t be able to get all the bolt that hold the flexplate to the converter.

If she is locked, your pulling an assembly not just engine. Some people pull engine with tc attached and bring an engine straight forward 6-7” and slide tc off trans input shaft. To risky to me to F up the trans. I pull trans with it in that situation.
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I was thinking the same thing about pulling it forward with the TC. I don't think there is enough room there to do it with the cross member at the top front of the engine bay.
 
I was thinking about it while I was half asleep this morning. Could I pull it forward 3 - 4 inches, just enough to get my hands up in there to remove the bolts from the TC/FW without pulling the TC all the way off?
 
Personally I'd let the TC come out with the engine. I'd just be really careful with trying to keep everything straight til it clears. I'd plan on changing the seal on the tranny too.
 
If you remove the radiator to the timing gears in place, you could have enough room to slide it forward like that. Raise it just enough to remove the engine mounts. And remove the oil pan and oil Pump that might clear the crossmember.??. Been to long since looking at it.

Also if you remove the timing chain it is possible (although less common) that the upper half is whay it is locked up. So no chain would maybe allow flywheel rotation.

But again, pull the glow plugs first. I have had bad head gaskets fill chambers and not allow foreward or reverse rotation
 
Just for reference here is how you pull the whole damn thing at once. I do not recall if we dropped the transfer case off the trans or not. This is actually going in in these pics.

1993pu3.jpg1993 pu.jpg1993pu2.jpg
 
pulled the glow plug and it isn't hydrolocked. Time to pull the engine. I was thinking if the problem were the trans It wouldn't be able to be shifted into neutral and roll freely.
 
Front pump could lock the engine with the rear of the trans in neutral. It takes pump pressure to put it in gear. "park" is the only thing that should lock the trans output shaft. Other lockups are possible, but, would be separate failures.

Doesn't matter at this point unless there is warranty on the trans rebuild.
 
WarWagon said:
Front pump could lock the engine with the rear of the trans in neutral. It takes pump pressure to put it in gear. "park" is the only thing that should lock the trans output shaft. Other lockups are possible, but, would be separate failures.

Doesn't matter at this point unless there is warranty on the trans rebuild.
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The trans has a 2 year 24k mile warranty.
 
Any further info from the driver of how it quit? This is your call as to what locked up. Did you inspect the engine oil filter for glitter? Maybe pulling the pan isn't a bad idea after all. With my luck the trans lockup would have popped a rod: already had one slipping auto kill an engine by overspeed.

What is repair plan, do it yourself? Maybe trans shop could help. If you shop it labor for engine swap is a grand or so alone. Is the truck really worth another engine: to you?
 
Pulling the engine today. No oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. No metal in the oil either. We'll see what the pan looks like when I get it pulled. Going to attempt to pull just the motor with the TC.

Are there only 4 bolts holding the trany to the engine? That's what it looks like. Also the pictures from WW are great. Just wondering where the chain is mounted to on the passenger side. I see a stud coming out of the block on my motor back by the passenger side firewall that I was going to connect the chain to with a washer and a bolt. Any thoughts from the experts?
 
FINALLY!!! I just finished getting the motor out. After further inspection of the passenger side under the valve cover, 3 of the rods look bent so either the cam went of the crank. I'll see when I get it taken apart next weekend.
 
I pulled the engine with the TC. It wasn't that difficult, but it did take 3 of us (2 would have worked). We didn't even have to take off the front clip. Here is how to do it if you ever have to. We jacked the motor up with the crane/hoist and a floor jack and block of wood under the tranny for support just enough to unbolt the engine mounts from the engine. There are 3 per side. We then lowered it back down to take pressure off the tranny and used a pry bar to pry and bell housing away from the motor. Basically jack and pry, jack and pry until the TC is free. Then it is lift and pull until the oil pan is clear.

The only thing that was weird was all the bolts connecting the bell housing to the engine were all studs. One of them had a ground on it. My friend who helped me has pulled motors from big rigs and gassers and said that normally the studs are mounted to the engine so the bell housing lines up and you use nuts to tighten it. There were some dowels in the engine that were used to line it up. The tranny was rebuilt by a local shop and I think they would have done it correctly.
 
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