Sooo, she looks locked up to me.

[WarWagon]

While I don't expect it to be bulletproof, I do expect the optimizer engines with the heavier deck, moly added to the block casting and head improvements (flow and Chromium added, I believe) to be able to take the heat better than the GM versions. Do you still use the 210* mark as your limit? Are you able to ALWAYS prevent temps from ever getting above 210?

First and foremost: When safety matters or a life threatening situation is playing out the engine and truck are disposable.

If the tougher not known for cracking IDI Ford diesel ruins rings when hot... Better heat tolerance by not cracking to failure, sure. Rings still get hurt when overheated. Engine still runs with more or lots of blowby so it's likely going to stay in till it has to come out.

I take extreme measures to stop the temperature rise when I hit 210: I don't need another entry in the carnage thread. With the EGT's and other hot rod stuff I have done this rule has served me well and only ruined engine oil a couple times...

AC off is really too late at this point. It's said that the condenser still dumps heat into the stack for around 2 min. (The High side pressure doesn't instantly drop from ~350 PSI when you turn the AC off so it's still condensing refrigerant and that dumps heat into the condenser that's in front of the radiator. This is why you turn off the AC before the hill IF you have to that is. I don't have to generally.)

Heater on high only helps if the heater blocker valve is open.

Gear down with revvs up and if all else fails slow down, stop and check that a hose didn't blow.

4x4 low is an option.

Be mindful of the flashers triggering the trailer brakes.

 

[Hink]

First and foremost: When safety matters or a life threatening situation is playing out the engine and truck are disposable.

If the tougher not known for cracking IDI Ford diesel ruins rings when hot... Better heat tolerance by not cracking to failure, sure. Rings still get hurt when overheated. Engine still runs with more or lots of blowby so it's likely going to stay in till it has to come out.

I take extreme measures to stop the temperature rise when I hit 210: I don't need another entry in the carnage thread. With the EGT's and other hot rod stuff I have done this rule has served me well and only ruined engine oil a couple times...

AC off is really too late at this point. It's said that the condenser still dumps heat into the stack for around 2 min. (The High side pressure doesn't instantly drop from ~350 PSI when you turn the AC off so it's still condensing refrigerant and that dumps heat into the condenser that's in front of the radiator. This is why you turn off the AC before the hill IF you have to that is. I don't have to generally.)

Heater on high only helps if the heater blocker valve is open.

Gear down with revvs up and if all else fails slow down, stop and check that a hose didn't blow.

4x4 low is an option.

Be mindful of the flashers triggering the trailer brakes.

That's really good info WarWagon, I appreciate that. I mean, it's very normal info but it's really helpful for us newbies get be able to get into you oldtimers : )> heads and learn from your driving experiences and try to minimize our mistakes.

An I have no comment on the trailer brake info, none at all. : )>

 

[Husker6.5]

He's easy to find. Turn left at the big pine tree. Go a piece till you see the moose and turn right. Follow the old logging trail till you see a mean old grizzly bear, then keep on going! Look for the cabin on the left, if you reach a herd of caribou, you've gone too far north, turn around, you missed the turn for the cabin. If you run into the grizzly, you've gone too far back, turn around again!

 

[Hink]

Hey, here's an update from this situation...

One neat thing about the WMI system is that you can pull the injector, put a plug in it, and your rig runs like it always did. No other system is modified or effected. So, that's what I did until I got the Devils own solenoid installed. Which btw,

I used DevilsOwn stuff...

How did you mount yours @sctrailrider? I wasn't impressed with the complete lack of documentation. The connection of the water line is obvious, and the wiring is simple, just find a keyed hot for one wire and hook to the "solenoid" wire on your WMI system for the other, but there were no brackets, clamps, or even suggestions on the mounting. Am I missing something? Right now I just have a cheesy clamp holding it.

But the solenoid worked! I've had the whole system working for several months now with no issues. I'm showing no more noticeable blowby or smoke than before and except for the recent possible glow plug issue, has started and ran flawlessly.

BTW,

The better test will come when I hit the 5 mile long 5 - 6% grades with the A/C 'On'.

Have you had a chance to test this yet?

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

The 2 small threaded points on the flat underside are for mounting.....

 

[Hink]

The 2 small threaded points on the flat underside are for mounting.....

Yup, saw those. I figured that I could make something work, I just expected a simple bracket or the screws that fit the threaded points or something to provide mounting for the product they sold me. It's fine, I'll make it work!

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

Yup, saw those. I figured that I could make something work, I just expected a simple bracket or the screws that fit the threaded points or something to provide mounting for the product they sold me. It's fine, I'll make it work!

A little late for a reply now but I mounted mine beside the pump on the plate I made under the bed and used some of the wiring to trigger both pump & solenoid sense they both needed to be tied together to safely work ...

 

[Hink]

A little late for a reply now but I mounted mine beside the pump on the plate I made under the bed and used some of the wiring to trigger both pump & solenoid sense they both needed to be tied together to safely work ...

The AEM system has a wire specifically to activate a solenoid so I mounted it in the engine bay for now.

You mounted your pump under the bed?

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

Yes, my tank was in the bed so the pump was under it...

 

[JayTheCPA]

Have you had a chance to test this [Mishmoto radiator on grade and load] yet?

Actually I just did did, but also had an injector fail on me so I still do not have an apples-to-apples comparison yet Overall, am still happy with the Mishmoto radiator as even with the extra load of a failed injector and RV in tow, the system shed heat rather well.