ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Will's gonna have to build a roll cage for his rooftop radiator.
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Sooo, she looks locked up to me.
- Thread starter Hink
- Start date
Will L.
Well-Known Member
<----- zoom in- it's already there. Thats 2" pipe above and on the roof.
I cant remember if it was still a soft top when you saw it.
The other guy just has a regular roof rack on his- I'd be beefing up his- he does some serious off roading and lives where bushes grow taller than the truck. I think they are called "trees"?
I cant remember if it was still a soft top when you saw it.
The other guy just has a regular roof rack on his- I'd be beefing up his- he does some serious off roading and lives where bushes grow taller than the truck. I think they are called "trees"?
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
From what I recall, the OE radiator performed about the same on the short-ish 2% grades. But it also had heat load from the A/C in addition to the towing where I have not put that full load on the Mishmoto radiator yet.
The better test will come when I hit the 5 mile long 5 - 6% grades with the A/C 'On'. For grins, will probably seal the radiator-to-frame gaps as well (per FellowTraveler's comments in other threads).
Reason I replaced the OE radiator was that it gave me a reason (started to leak) and temps were not too much of a concern as I learned how to control them through the throttle. Actually, I should have replaced the radiator 'just-cause' due to unknown history when I did the motor replacement, but the shop talked me into 'saving money' as it did not appear to have issues. Seeing as the radiator finally gave me an excuse, I went with the Mishmoto to get rid of plastic parts as they get brittle and eventually crack.
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
Not surprised. Around here, tropical storms (former hurricane) roll through every few years, flood roads, friends try to drive through the new moat around their community, and I pull them out. First things we do is drain the water out of the oil, pop the spark plugs and crank the starter a bit to blow the water out, and then start the motor. Diesel drivers are not always so lucky as it is not uncommon for the motor to blow a hole through the block when it ingests a mass of water through the intake.
Apologies as I did not have a chance to pass that along before the motor was started after the discovery of water on top of the pistons.
Hmmm . . . Time for therapy, eh?
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
A lot of alloy cages in many sizes for roof top accessories via military surplus out there too.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
OMG! I somehow missed that part of Hinks post finding the leaking injector of the Morgan Freeman thing until Jay quoted it. Im not sure how that picture looks. Morgan Freeman in a Sailor suit? Booming voice? I get the feeling I use my sarcasm font too often- haha. So focused on the water droplet I must have been in shock.
The leaky WMI is absolutley the scariest thing about it. Im willing to bet 99% of people that dont have wmi - thats the reason. I've ran systems on hot rods, but still haven't put one on the hummer because theres no such thing as a lower mounted water tank in it. The valve as a secondary safety is all i will have, so i haven't pulled the pin on it yet. If i could mount a mechanical ball valve next to my ignition switch...
The leaky WMI is absolutley the scariest thing about it. Im willing to bet 99% of people that dont have wmi - thats the reason. I've ran systems on hot rods, but still haven't put one on the hummer because theres no such thing as a lower mounted water tank in it. The valve as a secondary safety is all i will have, so i haven't pulled the pin on it yet. If i could mount a mechanical ball valve next to my ignition switch...
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
You want to put a valve on your WHAT?? That sounds painful.
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
Probably a mix of reasons. I see it as added complexity and a maintenance item. Temping, but not enough for me to add it to the list of things to nurture . . .
Am guessing you are not married
@Hink
As it's suggested the OEM temp sensor is no longer accurate you may consider installing an aftermarket gauge and temp probe.
Long before the internet it was known you don't get a IDI diesel hot due to ring damage. The internet brought about information regarding the GM 6.2/6.5 blocks and heads cracking with theory that extreme heat cycles help the deficient block and heads crack up.
The only thing I back off for is ECT getting out of control. (Yes, with most known cooling upgrades including bigger less exhaust restrictive turbo.) If you don't and let ECT run away you can scuff a piston from exceeding what the oil can take. Cooling system failures on IDI's including the stronger 7.3 IDI Ford diesels are known to ruin the rings. Heat takes the temper out of the rings and with no temper they loose tension and the blowby goes up. This is fix the cooling system problem and notice the massive blowby you didn't have before.
Gas engines don't run at ~21:1 compression. They don't have the tolerances required for the ~21:1 compression. High compression on a gas engine is like 10:1. You still pop head gaskets getting them hot say from cooling systems going dry from a blown hose. As the tolerances and need for high compression are not there you can generally get away with easy fixes for overheated gas engines.
Same blown hose on a IDI diesel IMO is likely to crack a head depending on how soon you notice it.
Fellow down the street has a nice late 80's Ford diesel with a Banks turbo kit. Rebuilt engine from it being full of water years ago. Owner decides to take a ~30' 5th wheel up the local 6.5 killer grade. Top of radiator cracks around the filler cap seam and they don't stop when it runs hot. Only 1/2 the radiator down so not a total coolant loss. Sad, but, all the intake joints after the CDR now weep oil from the sudden blowby the engine has after that trip.
As it's suggested the OEM temp sensor is no longer accurate you may consider installing an aftermarket gauge and temp probe.
Long before the internet it was known you don't get a IDI diesel hot due to ring damage. The internet brought about information regarding the GM 6.2/6.5 blocks and heads cracking with theory that extreme heat cycles help the deficient block and heads crack up.
The only thing I back off for is ECT getting out of control. (Yes, with most known cooling upgrades including bigger less exhaust restrictive turbo.) If you don't and let ECT run away you can scuff a piston from exceeding what the oil can take. Cooling system failures on IDI's including the stronger 7.3 IDI Ford diesels are known to ruin the rings. Heat takes the temper out of the rings and with no temper they loose tension and the blowby goes up. This is fix the cooling system problem and notice the massive blowby you didn't have before.
Gas engines don't run at ~21:1 compression. They don't have the tolerances required for the ~21:1 compression. High compression on a gas engine is like 10:1. You still pop head gaskets getting them hot say from cooling systems going dry from a blown hose. As the tolerances and need for high compression are not there you can generally get away with easy fixes for overheated gas engines.
Same blown hose on a IDI diesel IMO is likely to crack a head depending on how soon you notice it.
Fellow down the street has a nice late 80's Ford diesel with a Banks turbo kit. Rebuilt engine from it being full of water years ago. Owner decides to take a ~30' 5th wheel up the local 6.5 killer grade. Top of radiator cracks around the filler cap seam and they don't stop when it runs hot. Only 1/2 the radiator down so not a total coolant loss. Sad, but, all the intake joints after the CDR now weep oil from the sudden blowby the engine has after that trip.
Hink
Overkill Is Underrated
Let us know how that works out!
IF the water is all blown out, why would it blow? Or are you saying before they blow the water out?
I can see that. The Devils own Solenoid that sctrailrider suggested would solve all that though. Or maybe @Burning oil
has an alternative?
I totally agree with that. The thing I like about this system is that you can just ignore it if it goes haywire (or remove the injector like I did). The engines normal running performance is unaffected without it hooked up.
I am definitely planning that. I already have the gauge installed, I just need to wait for an opportunity to get the probe installed into the head at #8.
While I don't expect it to be bulletproof, I do expect the optimizer engines with the heavier deck, moly added to the block casting and head improvements (flow and Chromium added, I believe) to be able to take the heat better than the GM versions. Do you still use the 210* mark as your limit? Are you able to ALWAYS prevent temps from ever getting above 210?
I never could get a clear enough shot at the date code to see manufacture date but I do know that later model optimizer engines were a lower compression and I used .010 gaskets to get it down lower. I'm at maybe 19:1? Still high though, I know.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Yes, still play safe with optimizers temp. Call 210 and under ok, but get nervous at 211, worry a lot a 220, and panic like an idiot at 230. Thats my .02.
- Staff
- #53
Yep, and CHRYSLER didn't kick the fans on until 245 on some of the 3.5l V6 HO engines. The screw in fan switches for GM don't come on until 235, but they are meant to go in the passenger side head where they run hot.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Yeah, different world on those engines.
I would really like to see how efficient a new idi with piezeos could run if it were set up for 250 temps ect and being able to keep inconel at 2,000. I bet you could get 35%-40% burn rates.
Yeah i know, square wheel improving to a pentagon wheel...
I would really like to see how efficient a new idi with piezeos could run if it were set up for 250 temps ect and being able to keep inconel at 2,000. I bet you could get 35%-40% burn rates.
Yeah i know, square wheel improving to a pentagon wheel...
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
Correct to the latter part as the damage happens while still driving through the water.
Scenario is that the driver is trying to get through the water and then the intake sucks it in. Gassers just stall and can do the drain / purge routine (after getting pulled out or the water receding). But a diesel with the higher compression ratio has a tendency to break something when the water floods a cylinder with the running motor and the piston bouncing at a running frequency / RPM.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Gotta disagree on gassers just stalling. Here we dont get much rain, but when we do its all at once. The ground only soaks up a little, so flooded streets happen all the time here growing up. Everytime we got more than 1/2", the roads flood cuz people are used to more than that. Rain here sells as many engines as overheating in the summer.
Bent rods are the norm. Its the higher rpm that kills it. If the water goes in with the engine off, the starter doesnt have the power to destroy a rod or snap a crank.
Bent rods are the norm. Its the higher rpm that kills it. If the water goes in with the engine off, the starter doesnt have the power to destroy a rod or snap a crank.
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
Agree that higher RPM's will kill even a gasser.
Folks commonly just try to 'putter' through as they are not fighting current or anything, just slack water (left over from storm surge) with pavement underneath. This is why it is common for the dump & crank method to recover a gasser.
Also, not uncommon for the jet-ski crowd to go cruising the streets at this time
Folks commonly just try to 'putter' through as they are not fighting current or anything, just slack water (left over from storm surge) with pavement underneath. This is why it is common for the dump & crank method to recover a gasser.
Also, not uncommon for the jet-ski crowd to go cruising the streets at this time
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Not me, I would never take my hummer in the water.
Defenately not deep enough one time that it came in the drivers window with it rolled down.
Defenately not deep enough one time that it came in the drivers window with it rolled down.
NVW
Well-Known Member
was the water cold?Not me, I would never take my hummer in the water.
Defenately not deep enough one time that it came in the drivers window with it rolled down.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Oh yeah. Cant believe my power window still worked.
I did mention I'm an idiot, right?
I did mention I'm an idiot, right?