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Something is slipping in 5th or and 6th

There are 932 different transmission fluids out there to consider. Well, maybe more. I have been using Amsoil since the 80's and have read articles on using different blends and what is better. TF threads are just like oil threads, there are different assessments and whatever. GM recommends a Dex VI, I have heard use the Transend 295 that Allison recommends, others say use the Dex IV. I know there are different additives in each and wonder which will be best for towing?
 
Transynd TES295 is the ONLY fluid recommended by Allison for a 'factory' Allison1000. There is a whole background story about DexVI and GM losing DexIII control. DexVI is the one to stay away from. Regardless, many custom trans builders are saying DexIII for a modified trans and Transynd for a stock trans. Pretty sure Ferman knows a bit more on the DexIII specified issue.
 
Thanks Mike. I have enough Amsoil Universal TF that is rated for Dex II or VI and I am thinking of using that. I have the Amsoil equivalent of Transynd 295 in it now
 
For a built trans the BEST shifting fluid is CITGO QUATRASYN, but it is TOUGH to find. A TES 295 type fluid runs very cool, but doesn't shift as nicely. DEX 3 type or DEX/MERC fluids shift MUCH better than TRANSYND does, but will run a good 30-50 degrees hotter, and will not last long if you ever get it hot(and in general needs to be changed failry often). I know after 20K miles my DEX/MERC fluid was DONE! It had noticeably lost it's viscosity, and just wasn't shifting good anymore. bear in mind this was fluid that NEVER saw more than 215 degrees, and only had a few passes down the track.
 
I finally started to take it apart yesterday. I drained the trans, Txr case, and drive shafts. Today I will remove the Txr case and install the pump rub upgrade kit.

Drattt!! Yesterday my main computer died and ZI need to get it fixed. It will not boot up. awindows boots but then it crashes and locks up. I am not a puter guy and need to take it somewhere to get it repaired.
 
Well, I got the Trans and the Txr cases drained and the Fr and Rr drive shafts removed yesterday afternoon late. Today I got my main computer back to life without having to take it to someone.

On the other, dark side I had a water leak that I thought was coming from the dishwasher but when I traced to down it was in the water line that supplied the ice maker in the fridge. I spent all morning getting that repaired so the truck ended up being a wash today. Hopefully will get the Txr case out tomorrow and install the upgrade kit.
 
Txr case is out and hopefully the Allison tomorrow. Found a lot of surface rust on the Trans crossmember and other items. I will be taking care of those before I put it all back together. I will be using Rust Restorer and rattle can paint.

Any recommendations on snap ring pliers both for the Txr case and the Allison.
 
Thanks Marty, I am very familiar with POR-15. It is great stuff but, it is the time involved at this point. I need the truck back on line by next week and have a limited amount of time to get the Trans and Txr cases done. I will probably have to do it again in another year or so.
 
When I pull the Allison I see I need a flywheel locking tool and a 36mm 12 pt socket to turn over the engine to remove the TC bolts from the Flywheel/flexplate.

So begins another day.
 
I've never used either of those. I use a 3/8" ratchet, and turn the engine in reverse using the alternator pulley. Find a socket that fits the nut on your alternator, and rotate the engine slowly using it. And no need for the locking tool, they will come out without it. It will rock back and your socket will hit the starter hole, but they will come out.
 
Marauderer said:
Thanks Ferm, you do have to remove the starter and that is where you loosen the TC bolts. Correct??
Click to expand...

Yep, take the starter out(or lay it to the side in my case because there isn't enough room to slide it out), and you can get to the torque converter bolts. Have a STRONG small magnet handy on a flexible shaft in case you drop one. Otherwise it will lock up the engine and you can't get the rest out(don't ask how I know this). And a slim 15 MM socket is a requirement to do them. I use a 3/8" drive socket, 3/8" impact swivel, a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter, and a 1/2" drive ratchet and 24" extension.
 
Well, it has been a while as I have been procrastinating about this job. This was the first thing to arrive for this job.

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And then the Alligator Stg V Allison Kit arrived.

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The Alligator kit comes with a Suncoast TC and I decided on the 1056. The 1st and 3rd gear pressure plates are from Adrenaline Performance with Kolene steels and Alto clutches.
 

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I finally got the Txr Case out.
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I then needed to build a jig to hold the Txr Case as it is very unwieldy to handle and I need all the help I can get.

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After I removed all the bolts I couldn't get the case apart as the procedure I used didn't mention the speed sensor. Once I removed that it came right apart.
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When I got the Trx Case apart the metal spring clip that is part of the bad design was broken but, it was still in place.
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The wear had started but it hadn't rubbed through.

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Oh, I have the NP263 Txr Case. The picture I took of the ID plate was way distorted so I didn't post it.
 
Working on getting the Allison out today. I started at 7 am and will knock off at 1 pm due to the heat. Yea, I am a big P%$$( but that is ok with me. I am working at getting the starter out today and maybe get started on the TC bolts. Ferm thanks for the tip on using the alternator bolt (torks allen head) to turn over the engine and to be real careful I have control of the bolts and don't drop one.
 
Just remember if you need to rotate the engine back the other way if you go to far, you need to put a ratchet in the tensioner to hold it tight so the belt won't slip going backwards.
 
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