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`Smokey Starts getting worse with the colder weather

Paveltolz

Доверяй, но проверяй
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Saratoga Springs, UT
Notice while up in MT last summer trying to be of help to Big-T that my first starts were starting to have a little smoke. Hmmm Acrid diesel smoke that cleared up quickly as engine came to life.
It was kinda hit and miss up there but, when it ‘hit’, the smokewas getting a little worse. Longer in duration.
With the colder weather setting in, the smoke has gotten thicker and, as the engine takes a little longer to get happy, the duration increases. Smoke lasts for no more than 40 seconds or so…so far.
While smoking there is a noticeable miss or stutter and, sometimes, a loud ‘fop fop fop’ for a few seconds. Cold Hole?
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I’ve confirmed the Glow Plug Controller is operating correctly.
1st, key off, I confirmed there was 12v present across the GP controllers posts (12v in and GP Wires Out). So, connectivity to the glow plugs.
2nd, heard the load “CLICK” from the GP Controller when turning the key to RUN and starting the GP Cycle. During the GP cycle, no 12 volts across the GP controller’s two posts..
3rd, 12v present confirmed at a couple of the GP wire terminals so some of wires are sorta good.
Pulled a couple of the GPs and put 12v to them and they heated up fine. Will test them all though.
On the ones I checked, I did notice the GP wire’s connectors slide on to the GP blades almost too easily and don’t fit snug. Last summer, while wrestling with Starter connection 101, BigT noticed my #4 GP wire wasn’t connected to the plug and the connector was melted. Odd for ceramic ends to do that.

When the glow plug connectors fit loose, the wires draw far more ohms which heats the GP Wire connectors a lot, but passes less power to the plugs so the actual heat cycle could be far less than ideal. This harness is almost 13 years old (can’t believe it’s been that long) and with the long term issues I had with the valves (different thread), I’ve connected, disconnected and reconnected the GPs far too many times. Had I not had to fiddle fart with things so much, I’m sure the connectors would be good and tight still.

I have eight new AC Delco 60g GP plugs but, the Duraterms I’ve checked on the driver’s side are heating up OK. Prefer Duraterms though. Yeah, I remember a few years ago they were supposedly turning to crap along with the India Injectors. Haven’t heard anything bad about them lately.

Plan of action now is to pull all the plugs and test them. Pull and replace the GP Wiring harnesses (even if I can squeeze the connectors to give a better fit) on both passenger and driver’s sides. I don’t trust the connector on #4.
New Duraterms arrived a few days ago and the new GP Harness from Zombie Solutions arrived this afternoon.

Will probably hit the job Friday or Saturday. Going to pull the inner fender to assist in getting at 4,6 and 8 and assist in routing in the new harness and me shoulders and wrist are still fighting back after the fall down the stairs a couple of weeks ago. Glad this isn’t my only available vehicle anymore. Still, had to replace a tire because I picked up a construction staple (red) and two dry wall knife blades (yellow).
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Ended up replacing all four…only 3200 miles. They were Nextel’s (S. Korea) and came on the car. Didn’t like them anyway.
It was time to get snow tires anyway so, decided to get the Michelin Cross Climate 2’s like I had on the old Touareg. 3Peak Mountain rated, great snow tire and pulled me through deep mud too.
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IMG_1941.pngIMG_1943.pngOn the PLUGS not having problems lately-because you aren’t hearing enough people still making the MISTAKE OF BUYING them.
It has been exactly 2 weeks to the day since I walked someone through their problem in a 6.5 hummer who had issues with a set he bought the week before. He had the problem of the tabs breaking off.

It has been about 2 months since the guy before that. His popped an element of just like mine did. When his rattled hard he panicked and shut it off. His element was in the precup until he tried to grab with pliers and bumped it into the cylinder. He is a surgical nurse and after fighting it 6 hours walked away. Brought home some thin surgery locking needle nose looking thing. He got it out with that after a couple hours.

You’re a big boy- you make your decisions. Do the math how much a set of delcos cost and cost of the bosch to throw away & I just remind you of my optimizer with under 70,000 miles looked like this:
Piston and precup trash. I never looked if the valves bent yet.
Side note- 7 good optimizer pistons for sale…
 
Auto Spell Correct correction: The tires from S. Korea are NEXENs, Not “Nextel.” Auto Correct; Just one more of the technologies making my life less enjoyable….

Your's is doing what mine is doing, started fine until the temps got lower than 20. It still starts pretty good but I have one injector hanging up until it gets a little heat into it.
Thought about Injectors too so, I have a new set that I want to get tested before swapping in.
The current set of Duraturm’s have been in since 2013 though and are easier to get at so I’ll do ‘em first.
That “Fop” sound at cold start up is consistent over the last few years and I’ve had a three different sets trying to diagnose what turned out to be bad valves.
Last winter, the first one since getting it back with the new heads, it didn’t smoke but, that ‘Fop’ noise was there occasionally on the colder mornings (which would still be considered balmy when compared to Alaska) when the truck wasn’t plugged in. This year, it hasn’t presented that noise but once. So weird.

Funny/sick side note. The noise brings back memories of youth…I remember my 6th grade teacher telling us that the term ‘scalping’ was just one term for the act. The Brits called it ‘Fopping” because of the sound made from grabbing the hair, placing your boot on the back of the victim and pulling upwards until the scalp released. FOP! Put that term in your Don Martin (Mad Magazine) noise glossary.

Back to diesels. An interesting tid-bit about the Zombie Solutions’ wiring kit is that it comes with a couple of extra ceramic connection protectors.
 
Yep, when mine smoked like that, it was the injectors.
We all can spend money and pay others to fix the trucks. Instead we buy tools and diy. Long term owning a 6.2/6.5 it makes sense to me to have a pop tester.
Diy make one for cheap. Sometimes gubmint auctions have them cheap. Ebay sells a cheap one you can flush really well, adapt your injection line to, and put on a better gauge.

Now with some patience you can adjust the pop level yourself, have a spare set of injectors to swap as you go for less downtime. End up with two sets adjusted to individual desires of power/ mpg. And be able to diagnose when there is a problem.

Remember the stinky gear oil smell? That is sulfur. Sulfur helps the oil withstand the high pressure of the ring/pinion trying to make the differential into a huge oil pump and keep from wearing out the gears in a year.
The ip and injectors deal with a few thousand psi cycling on and of many thousands of times a minute. That is a lot of wear. And real diesel fuel is gone. Remember we have ULTRA LOW sulfur diesel now with alcohol added that increases wear. SMH.
So yeah… saving money by diy diagnosing and refreshing is something that just makes sense to me.

Yall heard me say many times to swap injectors at 100,000 miles. Doing that had us able to do re-shimming rebuilds and not replace the nozzles every time. Sometimes it was needed but 90%+ wasn’t.
I don’t expect the alcohol helps those numbers got better.

For those who don’t want the whole diy experience, when I say get them tested I mean adjusted to within 25psi of each other. If you go 2250 then you can’t have 1 at 2225 and another at 2275. For those who swapped to a fluid dampr balancer and noticed the difference- balanced injectors is the same.

Some people don’t understand how one truck gets 4,5,6 mpg better than another just like it, or one is quicker and tows stronger or doesn’t create as much engine heat as another…
 
A hydraulic shop should be able to get you a BSP to NPT adapter. lots of foreign equipment use BSP fittings.
I guess I just did not understand the dimension/thread pitch.
I just used the gauge provided.
Maybe I will revisit this and find the required elements to make this into a real nice unit.
Or find a nice Used OTC tester.
 
If you find an adapter, please post details.
Okay.
I will pull down the tester from the shelf and check what thread size and how many per inch and see what I can find.
If I cant figure it out I will post the dimensions and thread count and see what the team can figure out.
I tend to over think way too much and might totally miss the targut. Ooops, target. 😹😹😹
 
I haven’t even checked mine out yet. Thats on the “to do” list.
Busy trying to find parts I need that might be on sale -
Apparently old diesel parts just don’t do it that often.

Wondering if anyone has the roller rockers on sale…hmm…
 
I would take the whole tester to the hydraulic shop, just tell them it has BSP thread and you want this NPT gauge to fit. usually they'll take it and find a fitting for you.
 
I would take the whole tester to the hydraulic shop, just tell them it has BSP thread and you want this NPT gauge to fit. usually they'll take it and find a fitting for you.
For hydraulic shops we have NAPA, John Deere and a Bobcat store.
No real specialty hydraulic shop within 150 miles.
When I get to Billings there might be one over there. Thats the 150 miles.
Going to hit Best Buy and get this double DINN thing done, with free installation. Probably have them improve the sound system in this truck too.
 
What size NPT thread is it closest to? I might be able to look online and see if I can figure out what thread adapter you need. I also have access to two hydraulic vendors through my work that can get the adapter.

Here is a link to some of these adapters.
 
What size NPT thread is it closest to? I might be able to look online and see if I can figure out what thread adapter you need. I also have access to two hydraulic vendors through my work that can get the adapter.

Here is a link to some of these adapters.
Not sure on the BSP thread. I will get the gauge off and see if I can figure that out by measuring the diameter of the nipple in mm then the thread pitch and see if I can figure it out in a conversion table.
I did find a brass extreme pressure adapter, in McMaster/Carr, that I think will be the correct style once I determine the gauge thread pitch.
I also found a nice gauge with the high pressure marker needle, less than $150.00.
Just checked, their marker gauges goes to only 300 PSI.
 
the bad part is the high pressure fittings on McMaster/Carr are only rated up to around 3000psi. iirc that tester can go up to 5000 or 8000 psi.

also look at the threads on the gauge and see if they are a taper (BSPT) or straight (BSPP) there is a difference. if it's 1/8" or 1/4" the BSPT is very similar and a NPT will thread into it but likely not seal due to the different angle of the taper.

 
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