Clear fuel tube will diagnose air prob and sending unit isn't that expensive or that hard to change. I did drop my tank and found that sending unit was newer and was not leaking. Also had strainer without the bypass valve so I just removed it. Anyway bottom line in my case anyways is everything has been checked and or changed except IP. So I'm going with Bison on this one IP is at fault. But like I said CTS bypass is working for now and the truck runs like a champ otherwise so until it craps out 2 stroke and power service with a piggy bank for the IP fund.
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Shaky Start with Lots of Blue Smoke
- Thread starter mgray
- Start date
I also found this tip on my endless search for answers. I did try it but it didn't help but it didn't hurt so what the hell.
On a side note, internal Transfer pressure is set in the fuel inlet of the pump. As a pump wears, internal leakage increases and the blades/liner/blade spring all start to wear, resulting in lower than desired Transfer pressure. This can be partially compensated for by turning the adjusting screw in. To do this, simply remove the inlet hose coming to the pump, using a long 5/32 allen, give the screw inside about a half a turn. This increase in pressure will help move your advance piston more quickly and may make a noticeable difference in overall performance, and, it is COMPLETELY SAFE, so even if you don't notice a difference, you won't damage anything by doing this.
On a side note, internal Transfer pressure is set in the fuel inlet of the pump. As a pump wears, internal leakage increases and the blades/liner/blade spring all start to wear, resulting in lower than desired Transfer pressure. This can be partially compensated for by turning the adjusting screw in. To do this, simply remove the inlet hose coming to the pump, using a long 5/32 allen, give the screw inside about a half a turn. This increase in pressure will help move your advance piston more quickly and may make a noticeable difference in overall performance, and, it is COMPLETELY SAFE, so even if you don't notice a difference, you won't damage anything by doing this.
Veg_Out
Walking J Designs
I wish more folks would include a little video, or a link to a similar video. That really helps narrow things down.
Good work, and good luck.
Good work, and good luck.
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
One of the most overlooked issues when it comes to hard cold starts with tons of smoke is the INJECTORS.
155K miles is a lot for these little critters (squirts)
Yank the easy ones out and get them tested. What happens is that the POP pressure falls to about 1200 PSI and the nice fine cone of mist turns into a PEE stream of fuel.
The engine will run fairly good once you get a fire built in them but when cold that deluge of cold fuel just can't burn.
The best cherry red glow plugs can't light a pee stream.
If you find what I think you will find, get all 8 rebuilt at a local injector/pump shop
Cost me about $30 each to have mine done up in Portland (Oregon)
The pop pressure should be set even and at around 2000 PSI on all 8 (very important that all 8 are as close as possible to the same pop pressure)
Having a fair spread on pop can make a rough running engine and also causes cylinder to cylinder timing variations that can add stress to the crank and block that these engines dont need.
Good luck and keep us posted.
MGW
155K miles is a lot for these little critters (squirts)
Yank the easy ones out and get them tested. What happens is that the POP pressure falls to about 1200 PSI and the nice fine cone of mist turns into a PEE stream of fuel.
The engine will run fairly good once you get a fire built in them but when cold that deluge of cold fuel just can't burn.
The best cherry red glow plugs can't light a pee stream.
If you find what I think you will find, get all 8 rebuilt at a local injector/pump shop
Cost me about $30 each to have mine done up in Portland (Oregon)
The pop pressure should be set even and at around 2000 PSI on all 8 (very important that all 8 are as close as possible to the same pop pressure)
Having a fair spread on pop can make a rough running engine and also causes cylinder to cylinder timing variations that can add stress to the crank and block that these engines dont need.
Good luck and keep us posted.
MGW
bison
Well-Known Member
another thing some guys dont realize is that the fuel system is (closed loop) as the supply line starts and the return line exterminates in the bottom of the tank.The LP creates a vacuum on the inlet side,any pinhole between tank fuel level and LP will let air in no matter what(lots of vacuum in the tank agravates the problem).
A leak between LP outlet and IP inlet most times result in fuel leak,or air intrusion resulting in bleed back after shutdown.The LP checkvalve is mediocre to start with and cannot be trusted to hold the upstream fuel back.
Normally any fuel draining back to the tank will be replaced by fuel coming back trough the return line unless a pinhole leak between the IP return and the tank breaks the "closed loop" and you get again air in the system. a leaking inj nozzle can act as the pinhole in the return line as can a leaking seal in the IP(trottle shaft or main shaft).
If one installs a clear tube on the IP return(highest part in the fuel system)one can allways tell how air tight the fuel system is.
There should be no air bubbles when running,and only one little air bubble in the top of the tube after shutdown,even overnight.period.
Anything else is trouble.
A leak between LP outlet and IP inlet most times result in fuel leak,or air intrusion resulting in bleed back after shutdown.The LP checkvalve is mediocre to start with and cannot be trusted to hold the upstream fuel back.
Normally any fuel draining back to the tank will be replaced by fuel coming back trough the return line unless a pinhole leak between the IP return and the tank breaks the "closed loop" and you get again air in the system. a leaking inj nozzle can act as the pinhole in the return line as can a leaking seal in the IP(trottle shaft or main shaft).
If one installs a clear tube on the IP return(highest part in the fuel system)one can allways tell how air tight the fuel system is.
There should be no air bubbles when running,and only one little air bubble in the top of the tube after shutdown,even overnight.period.
Anything else is trouble.
Mudbath
Old Smoky
Mine has done this exact thing for two years since I got it. I replaced the Injectors, glows are the Delco 60g, new glow controller. timing at -1.85. I have not tried the CTS test yet. Additives help but have never eliminated problem. I believe the PO fought with this and gave up, he did not tell me about it and I bought the truck when it was 25*C. I will try the CTS test.
Brooklyn Tow
9 11 Never Forget
Did you try the CTS??
Mudbath
Old Smoky
No I haven't yet and now that it is warm out it isn't nearly as noticeable. If I remember one cool morning I will try and report back. Bob :~))
Woody35
Active Member
well i found out my ip was bad so that is why it was shaking and being hard to start. and this ip was only 6500 miles old. and of course the dealership unplugged my pmd on the bumper even after i told them not to and they retarded the timing!
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
You have hooked it back up to your remote PMD, right?
Woody35
Active Member
dont have time right now. im afraid its one of those new standadyne grey pmds with the different plug so i might need to get a new extension harness
Acesneights1
New Member
I am going through this with my 6.2 Burb, Sightglassing it tells the tale. I just dropped the tank in the burb today. I was getting bubbles in the fuel line causing drainback and near impoosible cold starts. I actually ran the burb of a 5 gal can of diesel to figure it out.