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Shaky Start with Lots of Blue Smoke

Wouldn't that mean it's just a faulty CTS ? Can't I just replace it?

And Bison it definitely sounds like a momentary timing issue, if it is a faulty cold advance component(stepper motor) can't the problem component just be replaced without having to buy a whole new IP? I hope adding more lube will reduce the problem and buy me some more time.

Thanks again
CTS was new on mine,disconnecting it did'nt make a diff.

As AK said you can try with other stepper motor,but i'm more inclined to believe the advance mechanisme is sticky when cold,otherwise adding oil to the fuel would'nt help,but it does so.
 
mgray you should try unplugging the CTS and IAT and then give it a try, if it does solve the issue that doesnt exactly mean the CTS is faulty, but that advancing the IP helps the problem, like perhaps it was never timed correctly to begin with. You can check the resistance of the CTS when the engine is cold and it should be close to what the ambiant temp is. So the resistance should match to the attached table.

I believe Bison, your problem got better after you actually correctly set the TDCO. And AK you may have also reset your timing?

The stepper is probably not the issue.

When glows dont work it takes more cranking to get it to fire all cylinders, that truck fired right up then had running problems. Also he is experiencing this at 45F, when it might be more common at 15F.
 

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Just give it a try.....it advances your timing a bit....everyone doesn't have the same issue/result.....Could be a combo problem.

Check it out, it's free and takes about 10 seconds in the morning
 
im worried now. my truck does everything the orginal poster does except the blue smoke but i have white smoke. my truck misses for about 30 seconds then it fires on all cylinders. im still wondering if its the glow plug controller though the truck fires right up when i turn the key just starts running rough and smoking the neighborhood.
 
mgray you should try unplugging the CTS and IAT and then give it a try, if it does solve the issue that doesnt exactly mean the CTS is faulty, but that advancing the IP helps the problem, like perhaps it was never timed correctly to begin with. You can check the resistance of the CTS when the engine is cold and it should be close to what the ambiant temp is. So the resistance should match to the attached table.

I believe Bison, your problem got better after you actually correctly set the TDCO. And AK you may have also reset your timing?
The stepper is probably not the issue.

When glows dont work it takes more cranking to get it to fire all cylinders, that truck fired right up then had running problems. Also he is experiencing this at 45F, when it might be more common at 15F.
Buddy i thought it did got better after setting TDC,but the weather got warmer right after,problem was gone till this winter when it resurfaced again when it got below freezing.adding oil to the fuel solved most of it but not all.
in the last 2 weeks with 0 c or above there is no problem.

But it might be different for other people,maybe there's different causes causing the same symptoms,who knows?
 
So when the CTS is disconnected, does the timing advance as much as it will automatically? What temp does it think its at when the CTS is disconnected?

Why are most people having this issue only when cold? How does the cold advance work, and why would lack of additive(dry fuel) make this worse?

Bison - When you say the advance mechanism sticking, what exactly is that mechanish?
 
With it disconnected the pcm thinks it's -40. my guess is when the ip is cold everything is tight so it interfers with the advance probably from some scoring.
 
The IPs were built assuming that the fuel would have a certain amount of lubricity. Then Low sulfer diesel reduced it below that level, then Ultra Low Sulfer diesel took it way below the necessary amount for these high pressure pumps to operate correctly. Without a good lubricant the IPs will not work well and die early. Most off the shelf lubricity additives was formulate for LSD, not ULSD, so they hardly help and some make it worse. PS is one of the most popular that helps slightly, but 2 stroke oil has been found to be far superior. A lot of people put regular oil in, but it has never been proven scientifically to be as effective.
 
im worried now. my truck does everything the orginal poster does except the blue smoke but i have white smoke. my truck misses for about 30 seconds then it fires on all cylinders. im still wondering if its the glow plug controller though the truck fires right up when i turn the key just starts running rough and smoking the neighborhood.

That sounds like glow system. Unplug the CTS anyhow and see what happens next cold start. If CTS thinks it 50 out when its 15 out, glow cycle/afterglow shortened, timing not as advanced, etc.

His truck is firing on all 8, but either way early or way late it seems. Something warms up, or frees up, and the pcm brings it back to optimum instantly and perfectly.
 
So when the CTS is disconnected, does the timing advance as much as it will automatically? What temp does it think its at when the CTS is disconnected?

Why are most people having this issue only when cold? How does the cold advance work, and why would lack of additive(dry fuel) make this worse?

Bison - When you say the advance mechanism sticking, what exactly is that mechanish?
To advance or retard the timing,the plunger cam ring rotates in the housing by means of a rack sliding in a bore in the bottom of the housing and hooked up to the stepper motor .
IMO,Wear on the camring and rack and/or bore's might form scratches wich can impede movement in the allready tight tolerances, especcially when sitting in below 0 as metals shrink,a little buildup of varnish from the fuel may also cause it to get sticky either on its own or in conjuction with above.
When the parts warm up after startup and the metals expand again things will free up again
 
unplugged my cts and to my surprise the truck started right up. the glow plug time was the same thouh as before but now it started right up and with minimal smoke. so what do i need to do now?
 
where do i hook up the voltmeter to. the cts sensor and what. also when should i do this. when its running or off.

The CTS sensor is just a resistor that is variable with temperature. So you just unplug the sensor and put the ohmmeter across the CTS itself. You would do it anytime you know what temp it should be. So when cold first thing in the morning it will be close to outside temps. Or you can look at your dash gauge and see if it at all lines up correctly. The dash gauge uses the sensor in the driver side head, so it is different at times.

Or use an Infared thermometer check the temp by the CTS and the resistance.
 
is the actual cts the sensor with the female connector on the crossover or the wire that connects into that. so using a ohmmeter i just put the two connectors into the sensor? sorry man im a 16 year old kid trying to fix his truck. not up to date on the technical terms
 
The CTS is the sensor on the crossover, so just unplug the wires from it and put the meter leads to the two pins on the sensor, Not to the wires that go to it.

Do you have a digital multimeter? That would be easiest, just set it to ohms.
 
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