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Second Chance

NVW said:
The donor is a nice looking truck, but has a fair amount of rust and is only 2x4. The 98 is rust free, but has the 60/40 bench seat. If I don't like it I may take the buckets and console out of the 94 and exchange them. The colors match.

Update
#6 has less than 300psi, so I am going to order a rebuild kit, dang. At least on first inspection the block is crack free.
Click to expand...
The seats between the 94 and 98 won't interchange. There is a difference in the floor pan stamping between 94-down and 95-up bodies. The transmission/driveshaft hump and the mounting points are different. I found this out the hard way when I went to replace the vinyl bench seat in my 94 work truck with a more comfy cloth 60/40 with folding armrest out of a 96 EC that I bought at a local parts yard. First, it high centered on the 94's hump, then I noticed that only one of the mounting ears on the 96 seat lined up with the mounting points on the floor of the 94. Off I went to the local stealership parts department to get to the bottom of it and found that there was a different P/N for the replacement floorpan stamping for the 94-down years than for the 95-up. Further, the 95-up P/N superceded the earlier one, as it was no longer available. 94-down also uses a 40/60 split bench, whereas 95-up uses a 60/40. I suppose you could drill holes in the floor and use serious fender washers underneath for some of the seat frame ears and perhaps weld tabs to the floor for the angled ears on the seat frames to bolt to, but that seems like an awful lot of work and no guarantee of crash worthiness.
 
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Thanks for the heads up, buckets from the 94 would likely be less of a problem going into the 98 than a bench seat.
 
Mounting points on the 94 buckets still won't mate up with the 98 floor pan mounting points, it might be easier to fabricate adapters for the switch, but who knows. Might just be easier/less of a headache/cheaper to just buy a set of buckets out of the right model year series from a parts yard. I have a daro blue cloth 60/40 in fantastic shape I'd let go REALLY cheap just to get the room back!
 
Number 3 cylinder has pitting on the headIMG_0786.JPG so does #6IMG_0787.JPG Block is cleaned, honed and threads chasedIMG_0788.JPG The EGR engine intake valves are nastyIMG_0789.JPG Still waiting on all my parts. I had bought new bare heads from Bison, these valves are at the high end of service so I'll use all the parts in the new heads.
 
That's my guess, I never looked close at the gaskets when I tore it down. I wasn't looking for any answers to problems.
 
NVW said:
That's my guess, I never looked close at the gaskets when I tore it down. I wasn't looking for any answers to problems.
Click to expand...
My old heads also had pitting in 2 cylinders. Those should be the same cylinders that the EGR port is built into the exhaust port. I don't know why the EGR has that effect, but it seems to be the reason.
 
n8in8or said:
My old heads also had pitting in 2 cylinders. Those should be the same cylinders that the EGR port is built into the exhaust port. I don't know why the EGR has that effect, but it seems to be the reason.
Click to expand...
Makes sense as those two cylinders are the same location on the head.
 
Correct. The purpose of the egr is removing the amount of NOx from the atmosphere(acid rain and smog). Rerunning the exhaust gas does this, but along with higher concentration of NOx(nitrogen oxide) is increased S02(sulfur dioxide) and Water. When they cool everytime you shut off the engine, it forms sulfuric acid,nitric acid, and a little hydrochloride.

Happy high sulfur diesel didn't have the problem, although it made tons more S02, the h20 was higher- the end ph was lower, so basically it waters down the acid as it formed. Scientific arguments still abound over details in fixing it long term. They say cost to end user of damage is worth the gains of humanity, so that's where we are now.

One option is kill the egr as long as you don't have to smog your diesel yet.

The other short term answer for us the Guinea pigs that want to sacrifice a little more smog today, and have a smaller carbon footprint long term is (like how I won the arguement before treehugger Timmy could comment) raise the carbon count ever so slightly going into the fuel, which raises the ph. How? What additive?

Used engine oil. Remember the fuel additive for ulsd and when the Gubmint did all the testing (I was part of that through 76 oils). Then later a bunch of forum guys did there own testing (if I was good at finding things I would insert the link here, Please post it below if you know what I'm referring to) and used engine oil was found to be really good, at 1 qt. added? Especially compared to some expensive additives? I said then- used engine oil is free, use slightly more than 1qt per tank (25 gal) used in the testing. We found 1qt per 20 gallons is the magic. Plenty of lube to loose no life off ip or injectors. I also said it helps valves, pistons, and pistons rings. 99.9% of people scoffed. I laughed and say "ok" :cool: <--sarcasm font applied.
 
Yes, that's the one. I retread it and they did 200:1 with the oil. My memory failed me, they used less than I recalled. Sorry about that

Our ratio was 80:1. We didn't take an estimate of ratio to use, we did testing of ratios that would maximize results of lube, with lowest c02 and N0x output too achieve it. Basically where the bell curves met.

Our determination of too much was about 50/50. Although lubricity continues to improve, passing emission testing with a heavily worn engine (250,000 miles) is going to get questionable.

I'd rather run 100% used oil than 100% precut diesel.
 
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