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Running Too Much Boost, And Blew A Head Gasket.

Hmmm....so do you have a plan yet on how you're going to proceed?

Man all that work now a teardown, good luck with the rebuild.

I'm unsure about my plan at the moment. Here is my problem. I don't have enough to buy new GM head. The best price I've seen so for OE, is Leroy, but they're $550 each, plus shipping. So thats a bare minimum of $1200.
I have a completely new american made valvetrain for the 6.5 heads. Valves, springs, retainers, shims, etc.. Quality stuff, as well as a set of new in their boxes GM T turbo precups. Stuff I've been collecting for my future 6.5 build.
I found a place selling bare castings that are supposed to be the thicker, stronger, crack proof, blah, blah, blah, aftermarket castings for $285 each free shipping. I could come with enough for these by the end of the week. I'll post the link below.
So, I'm having a hard time deciding whether I should go this route, or just continue running my cracked heads? What do you think?
http://www.enginepartstore.com/gm-b...-bare-diesel-cylinder-head-90-degree?mobile=0

Matt
 
Not meaning do derail your thread but? Could you tell me how the T precups compare to the diamond cups. I thought the diamonds where the latest and greatest but those T precups look pretty big in your pictures.
 
I'm unsure about my plan at the moment. Here is my problem. I don't have enough to buy new GM head. The best price I've seen so for OE, is Leroy, but they're $550 each, plus shipping. So thats a bare minimum of $1200.
I have a completely new american made valvetrain for the 6.5 heads. Valves, springs, retainers, shims, etc.. Quality stuff, as well as a set of new in their boxes GM T turbo precups. Stuff I've been collecting for my future 6.5 build.
I found a place selling bare castings that are supposed to be the thicker, stronger, crack proof, blah, blah, blah, aftermarket castings for $285 each free shipping. I could come with enough for these by the end of the week. I'll post the link below.
So, I'm having a hard time deciding whether I should go this route, or just continue running my cracked heads? What do you think?
http://www.enginepartstore.com/gm-b...-bare-diesel-cylinder-head-90-degree?mobile=0

Matt

Sounds a lot like the same boat I was in this last year. It's a tough call to make. Hmmmm. Why do they always break when you're not ready??
 
Not meaning do derail your thread but? Could you tell me how the T precups compare to the diamond cups. I thought the diamonds where the latest and greatest but those T precups look pretty big in your pictures.
The T turbo cups came out on the 6.5TD's before the Diamonds. The Diamonds are just a little bigger than the T cups, but I'm quite sure they're more than adequate.

Sounds a lot like the same boat I was in this last year. It's a tough call to make. Hmmmm. Why do they always break when you're not ready??
Yep, it would be nice if they'd wait until you give them permission to break. :D
Nate, I remember thinking when I was reading your build thread. "wow, he''ll buy roller rocker, but not replace his cracked up heads?!":D Your miles ahead for it now, as you get to swap those beauties over to your GEP. :)

Matt
 
Perhaps, it is too small for your application and your stuck with tall gears so you can't go big w/o spool valve.

I did lots of research before I jumped and the one I bought actually did cross ref to the Holset Super 40 but with an 18 cm2 instead of a 16 cm2.
While my 1.5:1 drive pressure at 20+ boost WOT may not be ideal, I'm very happy with my turbo, and its a far cry better than my old GMX. For my gears, and weight, I think my turbo is perfect for my truck. In town, I can mash the throttle, and she rolles forward about 10 feet before the boost comes on strong, at which point the rear tires start smoking, and she proceeds to leave 2 long black posi marks down the road, and thats with 3.42's, and 32" tall tires. It also pulls pretty strong to redline. I think I just learned a valuable lesson. No letting the boost go to 30! :D I won't ever turn it up that high again. I'll set it back to my 18-20, and call it good. :)

Matt
 
If you were closer I would sell you my set of heads. They were the origanal 95's, but didn't have any cracks I cpuld see in a brief check. I need to go ut and tear em down and make sure they are in fact actually crack free, but when I looked between the valves I didn't see any before. I'm sure shipping on them would be killer to. I would sell you my whole 6.5 engine for less than 1 head like it sits.
 
What a coincidence! I'm going to be flying into Ft Meyers Florida here in the next week or two, and driving an early 80's Cadillac back here to Texas. If those heads are indeed crack free, I'm sure we can work something out. I would try to make you a deal on the whole engine, but I'm afraid trying to throw an old greasy 6.5 in the truck of a cherry old Caddy might get messy! However, a couple heads boxed up should be fine. I'll send you a PM.

Matt
 
What a coincidence! I'm going to be flying into Ft Meyers Florida here in the next week or two, and driving an early 80's Cadillac back here to Texas. If those heads are indeed crack free, I'm sure we can work something out. I would try to make you a deal on the whole engine, but I'm afraid trying to throw an old greasy 6.5 in the truck of a cherry old Caddy might get messy! However, a couple heads boxed up should be fine. I'll send you a PM.

Matt
Ah, a 500 cid caddy, or?
 
While my 1.5:1 drive pressure at 20+ boost WOT may not be ideal, I'm very happy with my turbo, and its a far cry better than my old GMX. For my gears, and weight, I think my turbo is perfect for my truck. In town, I can mash the throttle, and she rolles forward about 10 feet before the boost comes on strong, at which point the rear tires start smoking, and she proceeds to leave 2 long black posi marks down the road, and thats with 3.42's, and 32" tall tires. It also pulls pretty strong to redline. I think I just learned a valuable lesson. No letting the boost go to 30! :D I won't ever turn it up that high again. I'll set it back to my 18-20, and call it good. :)

Matt
Yea, I'm thinking the drive pressure was way up there, any shots of the gaskets were the sealing rings elongated or were they still round?

The tire diameter is that advertised or loaded diameter my 33.5" TOYO's are actually 31.5" at proper pressure then + .50" @ highway speed
 
What a coincidence! I'm going to be flying into Ft Meyers Florida here in the next week or two, and driving an early 80's Cadillac back here to Texas. If those heads are indeed crack free, I'm sure we can work something out. I would try to make you a deal on the whole engine, but I'm afraid trying to throw an old greasy 6.5 in the truck of a cherry old Caddy might get messy! However, a couple heads boxed up should be fine. I'll send you a PM.

Matt
Wow, if this works out you save BIG and will have those heads in that trunk.
 
Yep, it would be nice if they'd wait until you give them permission to break. :D
Nate, I remember thinking when I was reading your build thread. "wow, he''ll buy roller rocker, but not replace his cracked up heads?!":D Your miles ahead for it now, as you get to swap those beauties over to your GEP. :)

Matt

I think this time around you have it cornered so to say and w/BIG HX40 and that exhaust plenty of useable boost and flow.

Yeah, that was a weird gig. I had already purchased the rockers just knowing I needed to replace the bad lifter. If I had known that I'd have cracked heads too I never would have bought the rockers then. But yes, it seems to be working out ok in the long run. The one thing I wish I had known when doing that is how important/critical it is to get the head studs sealed well. I just used the Permatex Teflon sealant paste and sure wish I had known better. I'm getting a TON of coolant in my oil now. Without that, I don't know how many engine problems I'd be having right now. After seeing that War Wagon used Loctite, I read up on it and it does indeed sound like the perfect application for Loctite Blue, so I'm going to go that route this time. Make sure you seals your well when you put them in!
 
What a coincidence! I'm going to be flying into Ft Meyers Florida here in the next week or two, and driving an early 80's Cadillac back here to Texas. If those heads are indeed crack free, I'm sure we can work something out. I would try to make you a deal on the whole engine, but I'm afraid trying to throw an old greasy 6.5 in the truck of a cherry old Caddy might get messy! However, a couple heads boxed up should be fine. I'll send you a PM.

Matt

Wait....you're in to old Caddies too!!?? :eek: I have a 1971 Fleetwood 75.
 
Ah, a 500 cid caddy, or?

Yea, I'm thinking the drive pressure was way up there, any shots of the gaskets were the sealing rings elongated or were they still round?

The tire diameter is that advertised or loaded diameter my 33.5" TOYO's are actually 31.5" at proper pressure then + .50" @ highway speed

Wow, if this works out you save BIG and will have those heads in that trunk.
No, its an 84 Caddy, so it will either have the HT4100, or the infamous Olds 5.7 diesel. Its not mine, so I don't have all the details. I'm picking it up for the people who's fleet I take care of. They're forever sending me all over the US picking stuff up. Cars, bus, equipment, you name it. I take my tool box, and try to get them home in one piece if at all possible.:D
You can see the gasket below, and yess it would be great if these heads from Fermanator ended up working out. :)

Wait....you're in to old Caddies too!!?? :eek: I have a 1971 Fleetwood 75.
Its not mine Nate, but I've always loved the old Caddies. I'm kind of hoping its a diesel, as its been a long time since I've played with an Olds diesel.:D

Well, i won't be using my heads! I pulled the valves from the head with the worst cracks, and the crack goes through the seat, and continues past! :eek: You can see the condition of the head gasket, as well as the pitting in the head in the area where it blew. :confused: I've made up my mind, I'n not putting cracked heads back on this truck! I would rather use crack free OE if the ones Ferm has turn out to be good, but if not, I'll be getting the "improved":D China castings.

Matt
 

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If it's the 5.7 Olds I would bend any bodies in the trunk around the 6.5 "spare engine" to get it to fit. :D If asked you can get away with saying you needed a spare engine for the trip! Not saying you can put head studs in a 5.7 and expect some life out of it, but, this is the perfect excuse to run a moonshine like loaded car...
 
The T-Stamp's are basically the same thing as diamonds. I have both and measured with a caliper, and although I can't remember exact numbers, they are pretty much identical. The diamonds are only a tit hair bigger, but not enough I think you could warrant them being different. Now, going from square stamps to T's like I did, GIANT leap haha
 

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And here is a diamond from a set of 7 I have. Can hardly tell a difference to the T-Stamps
 

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No, its an 84 Caddy, so it will either have the HT4100, or the infamous Olds 5.7 diesel. Its not mine, so I don't have all the details. I'm picking it up for the people who's fleet I take care of. They're forever sending me all over the US picking stuff up. Cars, bus, equipment, you name it. I take my tool box, and try to get them home in one piece if at all possible.:D
You can see the gasket below, and yess it would be great if these heads from Fermanator ended up working out. :)


Its not mine Nate, but I've always loved the old Caddies. I'm kind of hoping its a diesel, as its been a long time since I've played with an Olds diesel.:D

Well, i won't be using my heads! I pulled the valves from the head with the worst cracks, and the crack goes through the seat, and continues past! :eek: You can see the condition of the head gasket, as well as the pitting in the head in the area where it blew. :confused: I've made up my mind, I'n not putting cracked heads back on this truck! I would rather use crack free OE if the ones Ferm has turn out to be good, but if not, I'll be getting the "improved":D China castings.

Matt

That sounds like a pretty fun job you have there!

I like your plan....not using the old heads, getting Ferm's heads if you can and if all else fails trying the Chinese castings. That should get you by for a while I would think, and with relatively minimal investment.

How long do you think it will be until you can afford to build this other engine? What are you planning on building?
 
And here is a diamond from a set of 7 I have. Can hardly tell a difference to the T-Stamps
Yep, I have a complete set of 8 OEM T cups still in their boxes. :) See pic below.
That sounds like a pretty fun job you have there!

I like your plan....not using the old heads, getting Ferm's heads if you can and if all else fails trying the Chinese castings. That should get you by for a while I would think, and with relatively minimal investment.

How long do you think it will be until you can afford to build this other engine? What are you planning on building?
Yes, it can be a fun job at times! :D
My current engine was a high mileage block that all I did was hone, new rings, rod bearings, timing chain (no gears), and gaskets. The block had one crack below one of the outer main bolts when I put it together, and who knows what it looks like now. I try not to think about it. :D Anyway, I would really like to eventually build a really nice 6.5,that I don't have to worry about.
I hope it was not the red paint! I just got my red paint today :eek:
30 psi is way up there.
Swing by here on your way home and I'll buy you lunch.
That sounds like a plan Leroy, and I'll buy lunch, but only if you allow me to go in your garage, and drool all over that P400 of yours. Leroy, do you carry ARP studs in stock at your place?

Matt
 

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