• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Rocker Arm/Valve Covers, Brands ?

MrMarty51 said:
I think the front of the pan gasket is a part of it.
I now have the entire truck up on jack stands.
Stopped at the lumber store and got two gallons of mineral spirits. From somewhere I had acquired a hazmat suit. Going to don on that suit, put on the big green gauntlet gloves that seems to be chemical proof, get on the creeper with a handful of rags and various scrub brushes and give this thing an undercarriage bath. Get it all dried off real niice with a couple of cans of brake and parts cleaner, then drop it back to the floor and give it another short test run. Lets see what drips reappear.
One thing about now as compared to pre sealing the rocker arm covers, oil no longer steadily drips under the truck. At least now it could be drove great distances with an occasional check on the oil level.
The PO had replaced the engine oil cooler pipes with some sort of a hydraulic hose.
Just to be safe I am going to replace those hoses and install a new oil cooler adapter gasket kit.
Probably do that before the great wipe down as there is a lot of oil hanging on those hoses.
As wet as the front of the pan is I am guessing that there might be a mist of oil coming from that area too.
I once did have to timing cover off of the engine and part of the process of replacing the timing chain and reinstalling the cover was to install a short piece of gasket at the front of the pan, and to use some sealer at the back edges of that gasket. That portion of the gasket may have gave out too.
If that is so, maybe start a thread on if anyone has raised up and blocked the engine, then, lowered the pan and replaced the entire pan gasket ?
Just trying to avoid having to pull the engine from this beast, at least for this crucial moment in the frame of time.
The wifey wants to go to the cabin and I do not want to have to borrow a truck again to make that journey.
Oh yes, I had previously purchased and installed the fluid dampener and also installed a new front cranking shaft seal at that time, so, that should not be one of the culprits.
A view of the oil cooler adapter and the front of the pan gasket.

View attachment 82605
View attachment 82606
Click to expand...

On the K series truck when removing the oil pan all I ever did is remove a couple of the bolts that holds the front differential to the frame and let it drop down a few inches and that gave me the room to R&R the oil pan.
 
dieselolds said:
On the K series truck when removing the oil pan all I ever did is remove a couple of the bolts that holds the front differential to the frame and let it drop down a few inches and that gave me the room to R&R the oil pan.
Click to expand...
I do the same to remove the rear bolt on driver’s side lower control arm.
 
CRC brake cleaner in the PRO can. It is better than using the ol Shureshot can unless you have the newer one with adjustable nozzle and charge up over 125psi (rated 200 so if you can- then do so).

SWIMMING GOOGLES. I can’t emphasize this enough. Dollar stores have them this time of year- buy a couple sets, cleaners ruin them.

On the forever leaking oil filter adapter abortion that gm made. THROW IT AWAY, it takes a couple dozen attempts to learn how to get them to seal. Just buy the remote filter kit. I like adding a T in the line to oil cooler so I can charge air pressure in and empty all the lines- but I tend to over do things! Haha
Mount the filter where it is easy to get to and eliminate the leaks. This also give you opportunity to use better filters. Personally, I am still hooked on the wix one that is for duramax and using a preluber in the mix so no start is ever dry. Again, no kill like overkill!
 
Will L. said:
CRC brake cleaner in the PRO can. It is better than using the ol Shureshot can unless you have the newer one with adjustable nozzle and charge up over 125psi (rated 200 so if you can- then do so).

SWIMMING GOOGLES. I can’t emphasize this enough. Dollar stores have them this time of year- buy a couple sets, cleaners ruin them.

On the forever leaking oil filter adapter abortion that gm made. THROW IT AWAY, it takes a couple dozen attempts to learn how to get them to seal. Just buy the remote filter kit. I like adding a T in the line to oil cooler so I can charge air pressure in and empty all the lines- but I tend to over do things! Haha
Mount the filter where it is easy to get to and eliminate the leaks. This also give you opportunity to use better filters. Personally, I am still hooked on the wix one that is for duramax and using a preluber in the mix so no start is ever dry. Again, no kill like overkill!
Click to expand...
Where does one buy the “remote filter kit”?
 
Yup all the above.
Idk if Chris sells them or not.

There are really expensive ones that look real cool- personally I just want a hunk of metal that works.
If you can buy the adapter piece and the filter mount piece- then have a hydraulic hose made for the two hoses- thats the best because they will never fail you.

I don’t like the kits that are lower cost and come with a hose clamp style rubber hose. They are cheaper day 1, but later the hose starts leaking.
 
How it all went down.
Poured some mineral spirits into a tin one gallon can that has the side cut out of it. Rounded up a paint/parts cleaning brush cause it holds lots of solvent. Got out a wore short bristled parts cleaning brush cause it also acts kinda like a stiff bristled scraper.
A handful of rags one for soaking and warshing, rest for drying.
Got out one of the hazmat suits and got it on.
climbed onto the creeper with the safety glasses in hand.
Removed the front differential drive shaft and the one skid plate that was still attached.
started scrubbing, warshing, scraping wiping and drying. Had about a half a can of B&P cleaner and used it for a drying agent.
Got every thing washed and rinsed as far into the netherlands as I could reach.
It all was looking pretty good.
Checked the engine oil. Barely below full. Topped the prestone.
Fired up the engine. Let it set at an idle and warm for about five minitz.
Flipped the one PTO option switch, enjun jumps to about 900 RPMs. Allowed it to come to operating temp at that speed. Flipped the second PTO option switch, enjun jumps to 1600 RPMs. Yes, bay door and all the windows of the garage is open, exhaust fan going at full speed.
Turned on the Autell Maxi 200 app on my phone and connected the phone to the ALDL connector, turned it to live engine data.
Waited until I HERD the roar of that electro viscous fan kick in, looked at the live data engine temp. 198.6 degrees. Perfect temp. Waited until the fan disengaged, 188.6. Thats real nice.
allowed the engine to roar at that speed for one hour.
Idled the speed back to 900 RPMs and let it cool at that speed for about five minutes, dropped it to the normal 700 RPMs for another five and shut it down.
After about five minutes one drop appeared on the garage floor. From the RH side which I could not reach up into to wipe much oil off of. It is from the residual amount of leakage from the faulty job I did of sealing the rocker covers the first time.
I am now happily satisfied that the oil leaks is all stopped up and I can comfortably cruise all day without a worry of running the oil level low.
 
Before I tackle that oil pan leakage I want to have Leroys timing gear set waiting here for that move.
Get it all done at once, and the remote oil filter kit attached too.
So far, after todays warm up and run, the oil filter adapter is totally dry, and here I thought it was going to be a problem child of the day.
That 1993 K1500 with the 350 that I once had, it took a couple of tries on that OF adapter too to get it dried up.
 
I also want to thank all the nice people that participated in this thread, encouraging Me along and making sure that I got this job done and done right on this goround.
Very much appreciated.
Now I can haul the wifey and grandchildrens to the cabin without the thought and worry of running out of oil.
 
My suggestion is buy the timing gears when available even if you know you can’t install it right away. There simply is not enough demand for these to be all the time.
So he will again stop having them available at some point.

I will be having mine coated for lower drag (resistance). This is recommended.
I am considering having the cam gear lightened and balanced before doing that. Kinda on the silly side.
 
Will L. said:
My suggestion is buy the timing gears when available even if you know you can’t install it right away. There simply is not enough demand for these to be all the time.
So he will again stop having them available at some point.

I will be having mine coated for lower drag (resistance). This is recommended.
I am considering having the cam gear lightened and balanced before doing that. Kinda on the silly side.
Click to expand...
Not silly at all. Crankshaft spinning at 2200 RPMs so that cam gear is flying at 1100 RPMs so any thing to create longevity is a plus in My mind.
I know that Leroy had another run on these gear sets.
I want to get the CC knocked down to that amount before I order in the set. I try to keep the CC at less than $1,000.00 and it right now is at about $1,100.00 It will take Me a couple of months but I would like it to be down to at least $800.00 before I throw in that order.
Wifey dont take too big a chunks out of me If I keep it at less than about $1,400.00 to $1,500.00.
I would have liked to have got a set of those neoprene rocker cover gaskets He has too but decided to hold off for the timing set and a remote OF system.
Right now those are the priorities on this truck.
 
My thought is- i told a lot of people get the timing gears while they could, and they didn’t.
Then upset when they got around to building an engine and had to use a chain.

When there is no way, I get it - there is no way. I know a couple good investments to make but there is no way to do it right now so I loose out. Same thing can be with timing gears
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top