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Rocker Arm/Valve Covers, Brands ?

RC = Rocker Cover? aka valve cover?

I used the Dorman units. Stamped steel is stamped steel.

I really think you should consider the cork gasket under the cover and the girdle directly on the valve cover.

Mine is now barely leaving a spot if any at all. I do have leakage on the frame under the turbo drain. The drain pipe was installed to the turbo with no gasket and probably need to fab one for that.
Yes, RC for valve, or rocker cover.
 
Thinking about those neoprene gaskets that Leroy sells. He has a very limited quantity of those.
Corked mine. Sourced the studs and flared nuts through McMaster-Carr, Ace Hardware, Tractor Supply or your favorite nut and bolt store. M6 x 25mm 1pitch studs, black oxide. Steel Nonmarring locknuts (aka Flared), zinc coated.
IMG_7505.jpeg

Right Stuff on heads and rim of the covers (I wasn’t too sparing). Let it skim over while inserting studs into the heads.
Set gaskets over the studs, Set the valve covers on and just snugged the nuts till the Stuff was evenly squeezing out around the perimeter and let it set up. Next day, torqued ‘em down. No leaks and several years later, a pissed off mechanic can’t get ‘em off.
 
Those are called flange nuts for anyone trying to find them. You can get them with a smooth bottom or a serrated bottom and you can also get them with a pinched top for locking.
I usually use stainless serrated flange nuts. For no more than I use. Total expense doesn't add up too fast.

I've never looked - do they make nylok flange nuts?
 
Got some of these load spreaders. These is for a SBC engine so the holes is too small for the 8mm studs for our 6.2/6.5 heads. Drilled them out one bit size over a 5/16ths. 21/64ths or some such.
IMG_6734.jpeg
There is a longer version and if the ones for the 455 Pontiac can be ordered then the holes is for a 3/8ths size bolt and dont need to be drilled. The ones for the SBC engines looks mighty narrow around the outer portion of the bolt hole loop so I dont thing there is enough meat out there for drilling to that 21/64ths or whatever size it is, making them too weak to hold pressure.
I did a search for Pontiac 455 V8 and there is all sorts of these come up, mostly with bolt holes to fit the SBC engines with the 1/4” bolts.
Need to call Summit or some other supplier to make sure the ones I order is for the BB Pontiac.
SBC units ranges from about $12.00 to into the $30.00 range.
If the Pontiac units is about $30.00 then I guess I’ll forget about a two sets of those.
 
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Got some of these load spreaders. These is for a SBC engine so the holes is too small for the 8mm studs for our 6.2/6.5 heads. Drilled them out one bit size over a 5/16ths. 21/64ths or some such.
View attachment 82364
There is a longer version and if the ones for the 455 Pontiac can be ordered then the holes is for a 3/8ths size bolt and dont need to be drilled. The ones for the SBC engines looks mighty narrow around the outer portion of the bolt hole loop so I dont thing there is enough meat out there for drilling to that 21/64ths or whatever size it is, making them too weak to hold pressure.
I did a search for Pontiac 455 V8 and there is all sorts of these come up, mostly with bolt holes to fit the SBC engines with the 1/4” bolts.
Need to call Summit or some other supplier to make sure the ones I order is for the BB Pontiac.
SBC units ranges from about $12.00 to into the $30.00 range.
If the Pontiac units is about $30.00 then I guess I’ll forget about a two sets of those.
Cork gasket under the cover, girdle directly on the cover.
 
I know some have trouble with leaks, knock on wood I have yet to have a leaker in the many I've built. I found the flange on the cover is wider than the rail on the head, thus if sealant is applied to the cover it almost misses and does miss the head rail in the corners.
App " the right stuff " on the head rail first, a nice tall wide bead, let sit for a good while, while waiting, apply a bead to the cover, not as big as the head tho, let that sit a while.
Then install cover and only lightly wiggle it, don't push down much.
Take a q-tip or something and clean out and line up the holes, install the bolts loosely only, gently push the cover down, the idea is to NOT squeeze the goop out, next day snug the bolts.
Don't rush it and you won't have a leaker...
 
I know some have trouble with leaks, knock on wood I have yet to have a leaker in the many I've built. I found the flange on the cover is wider than the rail on the head, thus if sealant is applied to the cover it almost misses and does miss the head rail in the corners.
App " the right stuff " on the head rail first, a nice tall wide bead, let sit for a good while, while waiting, apply a bead to the cover, not as big as the head tho, let that sit a while.
Then install cover and only lightly wiggle it, don't push down much.
Take a q-tip or something and clean out and line up the holes, install the bolts loosely only, gently push the cover down, the idea is to NOT squeeze the goop out, next day snug the bolts.
Don't rush it and you won't have a leaker...
This ^^^ I did wonder if it might be better to apply the sealant to the head side. Thanks for that confirmation.
 
This ^^^ I did wonder if it might be better to apply the sealant to the head side. Thanks for that confirmation.
The back side of the left cylinder head is near impossible to get sealer onto.
However, if I decide to not pull the engine, I will pull the rear rocker units on both heads and then those areas at the rear of the heads will be easy to get to.
In the mean time I have the Buick in the garage with the Right side CV axle removed. It wont be here until Thursday, according to Oriellys parts store.
Also installed a new axle under the boat trailer. Figured out why the ignition system on that old, but rebuilt, 70 horse Force was not making spark. The CD control box was burned out, new bad box, or, box was good and bad coils wiped it out. Engine still had a misfire so installed the new coils.
WhooooEEEEEEeeee
Finally the boat engine is running better than ever and it might now have enough power to pull up a skier.

 
Looks like the oil leak can wait... time to grab some fishing gear and have some real fun!!
Yup, oil leak HAS to wait. Old 88 Buick plugging the working stall, CV axle be here tomorrow, I hope.
Then, today is Wednesday. The lets mow the yard day so the clippings can get packed offt in tomorrows trash.
Then tomorrow also, is the day that I have designated to mow the sons yard and trailer court. That frees up a complete day that He might be able to take off and have a little time to do something He might enjoy.
Get that done tomorrow and if there’s any energy left I’ll get that CV axle installed and boot that car out of the garage.
But, taking some time offt to do some fishing is a nice thought and thank You dbrannon.
 
Mowed yards today.
Did My yard then went over to the sons yard and mowed his yard and his trailer court.
I told Him that I would start mowing my yard on Wednesdays so that the clippings would go out with the garbage service truck on Thursdays, then mow his stuff on Thursday.
Tomorrow that CV axle is suppose to be here, through Oriellys, in some brand of a postage or another.
I do not want anything to interfere in that project so I mowed My yard and His yard today.
Maybe have the truck into the garage come Friday.
 
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