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Replacing Oil Pan

Joey D said:
If your ever in my hood, I have one you can borrow.
Click to expand...

Thanks joey, I don't get out that way too often, and They are cheap enough I'll just buy one at HB. Good to have I guess.

I never was big on using actual torque unless for things like Head bolts and internal engine stuff, but I really don't want to do this job twice, over tightening can squish out too much of seal, and make uneven tightening, so I will torque them.

Just use the normal center-out star pattern for tightening order?
 
Keep in mind, I'm a carpenter, not a mechanic. I only know one engine and thats the 6.5. So I don't have 100 other jobs under my belt. Usually I learn for one time. With the exception of my Power Steering pump which I ended up doing 5 times lol.

So any other advice is appreciated.

Clean all surfaces perfectly, and apply 'right stuff' to the pan, then raise it up? Is good? No need to apply it to both mating surfaces I assume.
 
In the drawing above, no. 112 is the rubber piece I was talking about. Rtv should work fine as that is the way they come out of the factory. I used the gasket only because I had it. I couldn't find the rear rubber piece without the gasket but I didn't look very hard because I was trying to get it back together asap. Even with the gasket, I used rtv on the pan and block and sandwiched it in between.
 
Ahh, ok, I should have no problem re-using that seal I would imagine? Or see if its all cracked? or just get a new one?

I'll take special attention not to rip it. Or should I get a new one?
 
just give the old rubber seal a lick of RTV all around. clean the pan and pan rail good with brake cleaner,lay a 3/16 bead of RTV all around on the pan,surounding the bolt holes as well. use 2 long head less bolts in the block to help guide the pan in place without disturbing the RTV. snug all the bolts hand tight,wait an hour,then torque them down,alternating left and right from the center both ways.Done.
 
bison said:
just give the old rubber seal a lick of RTV all around. clean the pan and pan rail good with brake cleaner,lay a 3/16 bead of RTV all around on the pan,surounding the bolt holes as well. use 2 long head less bolts in the block to help guide the pan in place without disturbing the RTV. snug all the bolts hand tight,wait an hour,then torque them down,alternating left and right from the center both ways.Done.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bison. That makes it sound easy. Good Idea with the headless bolts to use as guides. THat was my main concern lining it all up without smearing all the rtv around.
 
Ok .. gametime tomorrow morning.

Got 'right stuff' ...
Got 2 studs to thread in there so oilpan alignment is easy


2 questions IF anyone knows.

1. Do I have to undo the bellhousing cover? Looks easy to undo, but not sure if I can remove it completely looks tight.

2. I am doing this with vehicle on the ground. Will that effect my plan to drop the front diff a little bit? How much extra clearance does it need? An inch or 2?
 
While I'm in that deep If I decide to take off the turbo return line bracket, Can I use 'right stuff' on that too without purchasing a gasket for it?

Any tricks for the Dipstick tube or is it self explanitory?
 
Hit everythign Possible with PB_Blaster (again)... HOpefully all will go smooth tomorrow, Patched tranny lines hopefully will hold up, and hopfully that front diff drops easiely and offers plenty of room. I hammered my engine moutns with PBBlaster also just in case....


On a fresh look now that i really cleaned up 'down there', I notice my oil return tube is not leaking, but nasty rusty/crusty... Should have ordered one last week and did it at the same time. Oh well.

I'll go look for part # sticky see if i can find it.
 
Turbo Oil Return 1" Hose OEM - 10149660
Turbo Oil Return Flange Gasket OEM - 14098654
Turbo Oil Return Pipe to Block pipe hose OEM - 10149660

The last one is the Black tube? (metal?)

Should I use the gasket or 'Right Stuff?' or both?

Hose looks fine, but I'll changer her out anyhow.

Damn check out that cut and paste, 1st and last are same numbers....

Error found in the sticky.... Anyone know the proper part #'s? That number comes up as

GM PART # 10149660
CATEGORY: All
PACK QTY: 1
CORE CHARGE: $0.00
GM LIST: $7.58
OUR PRICE: $4.49
DESCRIPTION: HOSE,TURB
 
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My oil return tube is covered in so much oil i cant even tell if its rusty or not, must be.... It is caked all down the side of the engine and on the tube to the turbo itself. Ive got oil coming out of spots i didnt even know had oil....):h
 
I'm going to drop the front diff to change my oil pan

3 of the bolts look super easy.

There is one (drivers side) the one above the DIFF.

That one looks like a real PITA to get access too.

Any chance If I undo the other 3 it will rotate enough to drop the pan without undoing the 4th?

Any suggestions?

Doing this tomorrow morning.

Thanks guys. I'm getting nervous I think.

I'm gonna have trouble with that 4th upper bolt for sure. Hard to get to. Not sure what to use to undo it.

If I don't have to undo it and it will pivot , it will go forward, and drop the pumpkin down hopefully enough???
 
Matt Bachand said:
Turbo Oil Return 1" Hose OEM - 10149660
Turbo Oil Return Flange Gasket OEM - 14098654
Turbo Oil Return Pipe to Block pipe hose OEM - 10149660

The last one is the Black tube? (metal?)

Error found in the sticky.... Anyone know the proper part #'s? That number comes up as

GM PART # 10149660
CATEGORY: All
PACK QTY: 1
CORE CHARGE: $0.00
GM LIST: $7.58
OUR PRICE: $4.49
DESCRIPTION: HOSE,TURB
Click to expand...

Read the description of the first and last. They are the same just phrased differently. Both are supposed to be the hose not the black metal line.

You should be able to use the Right Stuff instead of the gasket for the plate that mounts to the block. For the Turbo to return tube gasket you need to use the OEM one due to heat.
 
packratt said:
Read the description of the first and last. They are the same just phrased differently. Both are supposed to be the hose not the black metal line.

You should be able to use the Right Stuff instead of the gasket for the plate that mounts to the block. For the Turbo to return tube gasket you need to use the OEM one due to heat.
Click to expand...

Yep, you are right.

Anyone know the part number for the tube itself?
 
dipstick tube has an 0 ring at the pan fitting.Just pull it out
for the turbo tube,i would leave it be ,cause you cant get it out from underneath.you can make a gasket from stock stuff or use RTV.
If you pull the 2 motor mount bolts and top rad shroud ,and lift the engine up,it will give a bit more room. its gonna be a PITA anyway.

A farm or hydr store will have that 1' oilreturn hose,they prob give it no charge.
I think you need to drop the starter to get the bell housing shield off

good luck
 
The drain tube runs behind the manifold. I think I'd wait Matt, untill you got the ATT, so you'll only have to pull the turbo once. I'd just give hose clamps a quick twist and leave it alone until later. Here's the best pic I have.
 

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bison said:
,and lift the engine up,it will give a bit more room. its gonna be a PITA anyway.I think you need to drop the starter to get the bell housing shield off

good luck
Click to expand...

Wow. What a PITA. Understatement. Super PITA. Started at 9. Did rough cleanup and almost buttoned up at 8pm.

Kicked my ass. Everything went smooth, it just took a long while to get all the old bolts out of the pan, as they were all rusty, and the angle of approach with different u/joint / extensions and having to hammer it on each and every one to get past the crusty...

Soaked all bolts in wd40 when working oil pan out.

BITCH. Barely any room even with the front diff dropped, as it wont come completly down as it hits one of the supports.

Cleaned it all good, right stuffed it up, put it in and the install was better with bolts all cleaned up.

Thanks guys for your help. Especially Don, (Monarkman)who Talked to me on the phone last night walking me through it. Thanks again.
 
Also dieselslug, I wouldn't worry about your oil pan 'letting go' on you ... All the nasty on the outside, and all i had is 1 or 2 little pinholes at most on the inside, which at quick glance still looked factory fresh powder coat.

No metal shavings or any guck whatsoever in my old pan also. The underside of my engine looked great and clean. Not even a spec of junk on the pickup screen either. Over the winter, I saw the cylinder walls of one side of my engine and they looked mesmerizingly perfectly clean too. With zero blow-by I feel confident I have a strong engine.
 
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