DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
I would say replace them. That oil pan has been jb welded about 6 times....):h
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Replacing Oil Pan
- Thread starter Matt Bachand
- Start date
You guys could just keep adding turbo's to your engines. Everytime you spring a leak drill a hole in that spot for a turbo oil drain.
GMCtrk:
GMCtrk:
bison
Well-Known Member
Clean the pan off to bare metal,and use POR-15 paint on it.It'll last a 100 yrs,
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
If i scraped it all down to bare metal, i'm not sure what would be left for the por-15 to bond too. Perhaps itmight seal up Dieselslugs though. Mines just too rusty crusty up there. Stinks without camera.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
You texas/southern boys think this stuff is funny don't you!!!!! I sure wish my metal would last forever too, and everybolt just magically unbolts like watching speed-tv or shadetree mechanic....
- Staff
- #26
I aint laughing, I have lived up north and seen the damage first hand. I feel for ya!
Monarkman
Professional Lurker
The 2 rear are different. They are a little bigger. Mine were metric but I don,t know when the switch over was. I had to drop mine over the winter and I also dropped the differential. You may want to find a cheap source for a gasket if you don't have one. They don't have a gasket from factory, just rtv but I ripped the rear rubber seal trying to get it off since it was rtved to the pan.
bison
Well-Known Member
I actually had your new pan in mind for this
I actualy feel for you to and you probably don't have room under the hood for that many turbos
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
There is a rubber seal? Everyone Is recommending 'right stuff' from permatex, and those who used a gasket said it leaked, so I'll just do the right stuff, thing.
I was just under there hitting EVERYTHING with purple power, and hosed it all down with hose hooked to hot water washing machine port. Its all spotless underthere now
IT'll be messy come next week, but the bull work is done. I re-greased every fitting, and my wife is pissed that I spend so much time under there.... oh well. I am going to do everything possible to try to make it through next winter without a repair. I hate winter repairs with a passion.
Do you remember how much longer the rear 2 are? 50%? 100% (Twice as long)... Do the screw holes go through? or do they have a bottom? (meaning too long screw wont tighten down, would bottom out)...
If I have to re-use the back 2 no big deal. Just figure replace them as the heads look beat. And quicker to replace ahead of time then to clean em all up. (which would probably work)
Last edited:
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Anyone have access to a blow-up breakdown picture of the oilpan and surrounding area?
96 OILBURNER
Member
Here is one for the 6.2. It doesn't show a seal for the front cover to pan, so I don't know if there is one or not.
- Staff
- #33
I thought the front cover to the pan was just some do it yourself from the tube. Silicone? The black, red, ???? stuff
96 OILBURNER
Member
Like I said, I don't know. I have never been that far into one. Maybe someone with more experience can shed more light on this.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
It also doesn't show the bolts which is specifically what I'm looking for.
From everything I've read (and I've read alot of search threads over the last day) 'Right Stuff' from Permatex is the best available sealant, and the only sealant needed for this job.
As far as torque specs go, I don't have a inch 1/4 drive torque wrench, should I buy one? Or is 'snug' good enough?
From everything I've read (and I've read alot of search threads over the last day) 'Right Stuff' from Permatex is the best available sealant, and the only sealant needed for this job.
As far as torque specs go, I don't have a inch 1/4 drive torque wrench, should I buy one? Or is 'snug' good enough?
- Staff
- #36
See if you can rent one? Our borrow one from a fellow member that is close by.
The one on right is the rear most oil pan bolt. One on each side. It is M8X1.25 and about 20mm long
The hole in the block (on Mine) go's into the bell housing area (meaning you could use a 2" long bolt there if needed)
The smaller one I don't know the size.
The front of the pan bolts to the timing cover, so no rubber like the rear.
The hole in the block (on Mine) go's into the bell housing area (meaning you could use a 2" long bolt there if needed)
The smaller one I don't know the size.
The front of the pan bolts to the timing cover, so no rubber like the rear.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Thanks Leroy, exactly the info i'm looking for here.
1. By saying no rubber like the rear, there is a rubber seal that goes around the entire pan?
2. I can pull one in the field to match up size, and re-install on truck before the job. I'm sure it wont make much difference on the seal for a day or 2.
3. Harbor Freight sells 1/4 torque wrenches for like 15 bux or so, so I may as well buy one and add it to my collection, unless general consessus is to not use one and just 'snug' it. But nobody bit on the bait i through out there on that, (perhaps afraid to get ridiculed by others)
4. My bolt heads look similar to yours Leroy, So I will probably replace them with SS ones, unless someone can think of a reason the SS is not a good idea.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
May be hard to find with the built in washer type, so maybe I'll just re-use them....