Replacing Oil Pan

[Matt Bachand]

Was going to screw around with my crimps on my cooler lines, when I wiped down the engine and fired her up with skidplate off to watch the weap before and after.

You guessed it, as the title gave away the big secret....

Oil pan upperside after the bend (front) all crusty and bubbly.

Bottom was this way, I scraped it clean 3 years ago when I bought it and it seemed sturdy. I never got at the front.

I can see it slowly bubble out and drip down.....


So.

I'm calling 'my guy' right now to get a quote on a new pan.

A few bolts on the front axle drops it far enough to swap out?

No gasket, red rtv?

I'll find torque specs in the sticky and post them here in the thread.

Shiny new oilpan sure will dress up the underside of my rig! Could have waited till a pay weekend.... Probably can wait, been this way for a while, as long as I don't scrape it i'm sure It will be fine for another week. And its not in the sump, its at the top.

Oh boy am I excited.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Oil Pan Torque specs - LB (NM)



Rear Two Bolts--17 (23)
All Others--89 in. Lbs (10)

So not tight at all.

 

[DieselSlug]

Matt have i got some pics for u!! U think ur pan is bad, i jb welded mine in 7 spots and still leaks like a siv, and its been that way since i got it. The pics are on the other puter, i will get them up late tonight for ya. I wiped mine off and within seconds the pan looked like i never wiped it.... GOTTA LOVE PERSONAL ANTI-RUST PROOFING:thumbsup:

 

[Matt Bachand]

Matt have i got some pics for u!! U think ur pan is bad, i jb welded mine in 7 spots and still leaks like a siv, and its been that way since i got it. The pics are on the other puter, i will get them up late tonight for ya. I wiped mine off and within seconds the pan looked like i never wiped it.... GOTTA LOVE PERSONAL ANTI-RUST PROOFING:thumbsup:

Never replaced it? Not worried about it dumping? Oil pan is NOT pressurized, correct?

I replied to your post on the other site same time you replied to mine!

 

[DieselSlug]

Oh, im worried about it, scared sh!tless about it. Just dont want to put the time into an engine that im going to take out in a few months and replace with a NON rot box engine. I look under that truck every chance i get, everymorning im scared to look on the ground. Ill have to post a pic od my driveway, and see if you all can guess where i park):h. I dont think its pressurized but the weight of the oil pushing itself through....

 

[Matt Bachand]

Oh, im worried about it, scared sh!tless about it. Just dont want to put the time into an engine that im going to take out in a few months and replace with a NON rot box engine. I look under that truck every chance i get, everymorning im scared to look on the ground. Ill have to post a pic od my driveway, and see if you all can guess where i park):h. I dont think its pressurized but the weight of the oil pushing itself through....

Yours seeping at the bottom part? Luckily mine is at teh top, so it only consistenly drips when i'm nose down. Finally fixed my nose down xfer case problem (i think!!) but no time to rejoice, as my puddle turned from red to black!

On a side note, I sure am glad I changed my oil LAST WEEK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ Poo!

 

[DieselSlug]

The front of my pan is so-so, the bottom and rear are SUPER crusty and are loaded with pinholes......

 

[DieselCash]

On a side note, I sure am glad I changed my oil LAST WEEK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ Poo!

That sux! But, it seems it always works this way. Things break or leak at the most inopportune times.

Wish you luck! :thumbsup:

 

[Matt Bachand]

Yep, at least it will get a superflush.... have to stay positive.

 

[Joey McGuire]

FWIW I have pulled my oil pan a couple of different ways. The service manual recommends to pull the motor mount bolts and lift the engine up a few inches. I have also pulled all the transfer case stuff down and out of the way to do it as well. If you have a cherry picker then I would highly recommend pulling the motor mount bolts. It is not as big a deal as it sounds. You can take tension off the mounts with the picker to pull the bolts out and put them back in. Either way it is not the funnest task and takes a lot longer than any other oil pan I have ever dealt with. Have Fun!

 

[Matt Bachand]

I had to order it, $140.00 and it wont come till monday, so looks like I'll have to do it next weekend....... I'll just keep an extra eye on it for next week. STARING at my pressure gauge...

I may have access to a picker, not sure if it can lift the motor and tranny weight though, I guess It wouldn't be that much weight with everything still bolted. Perhaps a good time to change my motor mounts if I did it this method. I was just under there, and it looks like 4 bolts hold the front axle UP, and one bolt next to the D.S. torsionbar/lower control arm, and the front diff would go down. That looks pretty easy too. I'll give myself 2 days to do it, so I can take my time and not be rushed.

Its been this way for a long time, so I don't think it will 'let go' in a week. Last time I changed the oil I noticed increase of leak (puddle) on parking spot and added Lucas's oil stabilizer instead of oil when it was a quart low, That slowed things down almost considerably, perhaps with gravity, that thick lucas's just sits on the pan and gums it up some.

I'm not even going to bother tinkering with my oil cooler lines now... I'll just wait a month or so and order up a kit.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Going to go back under and inspect the motor mounts and see which method I'll do.

No reason to change my oil pump while i'm in there? It only has 125k on it. Never heard about them crapping out either.

 

[DieselSlug]

I might try the lucas stuff, i leak a TON a day, and while running. Prolly wont have to replace the pump, but maybe the screen if its dirty. For the price of an oil pump it would suck to have it go after you put the new pan back on tho.... BTW, i just bought an oil pan off of chevyinline six for 10 bucks, prolly shouldnt have told you that):h. But he even sand blasted it for me, ready to paint......

 

[Matt Bachand]

Lol, the Lucas helped a HUGE amount last oil change. Give it a shot, dont' get teh synthetic lucas, just the plain ol'... stufsf not cheap anymore , but thick and gooey!

10 bux is a good deal for a pan! My brand new one will come powder coated and treated!

 

[Matt Bachand]

I can tell the passenger side motor mount is not going to go easy one bit.... same reason my oil pan is bad... salt.

My front driveshaft bolts all look good though, and easy to get an impact on, 3 out of 4 anyhow. I'll PB-Blast em a few times during the week.

Are all the oil pan screws the same? I'd like to replace them as they don't look to good.

Or the 2 rear different, then the rest the same? Can't hurt to pull one out and go to the store and put it back in I would think.

 

[Joey D]

I have an engine lift you can borrow if you want.
I don't think it will be a bad job, just time consuming.

 

[DieselSlug]

Rust prevention technique= dont fix anything that leaks.....

 

[Acesneights1]

I have a cherry picker too. Boy do I miss working on the older stuff with straight axle. Oil pan off in 10 mins.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Lol... mine looks way worse up past the bend where it goes over the front axle, its way bubbly rusty crusty, I was under there detailing all the crud away, and sure enough everything under that crud is nice and clean like brand new, compared to the rest...

BUT, I'm getting this thing leak free, making the underside spotless, and gonna spray everything with a gloss black paint thats made for rust, supposed to 'catarize?' the rust, and bond to it.

Engine degreaser, followed up by a rag, followed up by compressed air brings everything lookin really nice.

When I was at my buddys house, he has a real high compresser (160lbs) and a blow gun that he fabbed a brake line on the end of it. Gives it reach and creates a ton of pressure. It literally blasts all gunk clear off.. Just have to be careful, don't wanna rip seals with that bad boy.


Joey, much appreciate the offer! I should be good, one of my engine mount bolts look like rusty manifold bolts, and i can tell it wont be easy (torch) to get out.

The axle bolts all look really really good though, and clean, and easy to impact off, so I think i'll have no problem dropping the axle down a little. Only 4 big bolts hold it on.

I'm going to pull one of my oil pan bolts and match it up with all new SS bolts from the HW store. The heads don't look the best, so might as well replace em. Nothing better than SS.

Gonna use the greatstuff stuff by permatex, everyone recommends it.

Can I clean the oil pump screen or does that need to be replaced if dirty?

Gonna have to do this next weekend. I'll allow myself saturday and sunday if need be.

In the mean time i'll hit the axle bolts with pb blaster a few times, park nose up, and throw some lucas in there when it drops down to thicken things up to slow the leak, which is only non stop when nose down parked.

It dribbles really slowly when running.

Need it for work so have no choice. In all reality its been leaking for a long time a week wont kill it.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Would this be a good time to re-do the turbo return line plate and gasket?