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Quick Disconnect Removal Poll

Share your experience with removal of T-Stat Quick Disconnect

  • Removed It successfully With a Socket

    Votes: 6 9.1%

  • Broke It with a Socket

    Votes: 7 10.6%

  • Removed it successfully with a wrench

    Votes: 16 24.2%

  • Broke It with a Wrench

    Votes: 12 18.2%

  • Never tried with above methods. Took Apart and broke it up safely instaed.

    Votes: 1 1.5%

  • Havn't tackled this yet. Thanks for doing this poll thread.

    Votes: 24 36.4%
  • Total voters
    66
I just voted. Successfully used a socket to remove it. However, this crossover was out of a wrecking yard here in the great Pacific Northwet. No corrosives used on the roads in the winter time.

Don
 
handcannon said:
Successfully used a socket to remove it. However, this crossover was out of a wrecking yard here in the great Pacific Northwet. No corrosives used on the roads in the winter time.
Click to expand...

What a coincidence. Mine came out with no problem and here in Florida, we don't put salt on our roads in the winter time either.:hihi:
 
When i first bought my truck it was leaking a little from the plastic piece. So i went to the Chevrolet dealer and bought a new one, but it came with the whole nipple. Soaked mine in penetrant and tried to wrench it off, snap... Had to take the whole crossover off and take it to a machine shop where i got it bored, retapped and sealed. Now it leaks again at the stupid little plastic clip. Ive moved the metal pipe going into it a bunch of times to try and get it seated square, but it still leaks a little. Stupid design...
 
Matt Bachand said:
I just picture it breaking when trying to fix and me saying to myself as I watch antifreeze helplessly drip, "Should have left it alone." :)

I have the 5/8 Heater hose, and the barb. I keep it on board in the truck. So if it fails, I can then attempt the fix right then and there on the side of the road. So I am ready.
Click to expand...

Better to fix it under your terms, if it's going to be a bugger at home it will be on the road too.
 
handcannon said:
I just voted. Successfully used a socket to remove it. However, this crossover was out of a wrecking yard here in the great Pacific Northwet. No corrosives used on the roads in the winter time.

Don
Click to expand...

Lucky for you. My truck came out of the great north west, Spokane WA and it snapped off like it was perforated!
 
My understanding for the fitting is GM used it because it restricted flow to heater core because without it some trucks would make a gurgling sound in the heater core. Not sure if its true, just what I heard from a 30 year GM mechanic (very smart guy)

I repaired them both ways by using pipe x barb fitting and the steel aftermarket (help brand) fitting. Never heard any gurgling on any of them. Had some break and others come out fine. In the end will cost about the same in parts, more labor if it breaks off.
Would not want this job on the side of the road!!

Edit: Hey Im post 69 :hihi: Anyone know the square root of 69? I think its "8" something :eek:
 
I've gone brass barb for both of mine hoping the brass more corrosion resistant than steel or the POS pot metal fitting GM "gifted us with", as a insurance policy for things going wrong on a trip I carry a piece of rubber heater hose with me; once on a trip I sprung a leak in the hose jumper I installed where I had torqued it too tight under tension on the hose clamp and got a leak as I didn't allow enough slack in the hose and it rubbed internally on the aluminum tube and failed.
 
I think the restriction is to slow the coolant down in order to extract the heat out of it:agreed: similar to a thermostat. If it flows to fast no heat gets out. Engines with no thermostat will overheat. I think matt is wanting more horror stories to justify his procrastinating:WTF::D. The last one I snapped off took me a little over 10 minuites to get out with a hack saw blade and chisel. Not a big deal.:cool::dance::dance:
 
My steel replacement barb was weeping around the threads earlier this winter. A little extra teflon tape and all seems to be fine now. By the by, it doesn't have the restriction and I don't get gurgling noises in the heater core. However, I was getting gurgling with the OEM fitting. :???: Go figure.
I had heard the restriction was to reduce flow to the heater core too but for keeping pressure down to prevent the core from blowing out. Given the 3/4" line going in and a 5/8" line coming out I'm trying to figure that one out. Then again, I just had to replace my heater core which was leaking.... :mad2:

But what do I know, I tend to break things figuring out how I should have done it right.:rof:
 
bk95td said:
I think the restriction is to slow the coolant down in order to extract the heat out of it:agreed: similar to a thermostat. If it flows to fast no heat gets out. Engines with no thermostat will overheat. I think matt is wanting more horror stories to justify his procrastinating:WTF::D. The last one I snapped off took me a little over 10 minuites to get out with a hack saw blade and chisel. Not a big deal.:cool::dance::dance:
Click to expand...

Lol.. Its cold out! My truck running like a champ all winter. I'm not touching ANYTHING!
 
I have the factory steel replacement also.....Not everyone has a barn sized workspace (Heated?) like you Barry......Warmer days are a commin' !!
 
I don't know that I would call 30 f all that heated. Better than outside ,yes.
 
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