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Quick Disconnect Removal Poll

Share your experience with removal of T-Stat Quick Disconnect

  • Removed It successfully With a Socket

    Votes: 6 9.1%
  • Broke It with a Socket

    Votes: 7 10.6%
  • Removed it successfully with a wrench

    Votes: 16 24.2%
  • Broke It with a Wrench

    Votes: 12 18.2%
  • Never tried with above methods. Took Apart and broke it up safely instaed.

    Votes: 1 1.5%
  • Havn't tackled this yet. Thanks for doing this poll thread.

    Votes: 24 36.4%

  • Total voters
    66
Well let me put this way, I replaced mine 2 years or so ago with the aftermarket steel kind. Took it off the other day whilst doing something else and examined it closely not a hint of corrosion/degradation. Seems to me why reinvent the wheel have to reconfigure the hose etc when the aftermarket style works as others have posted here and in other disconnect threads.

Cheers
Nobby

I'm sorry - what aftermarket steel kind? Are you talking about the quick disconnect or the line itself? If you're talking about the connection point - are you talking steel vs. brass? Quick disconnect or just a npt to barb fitting?
 
The reason to replace it is you get to choose the time and place:D
It will eventually leak

Your right Leo.....My replacment steel connector is still behind my seat.

Not a job I'm looking foward to....But it would be worse if it let go while working.
 
Napa660=1732 1/2nptx5/8 hose with reduced id for restriction. 1 piece 5/8 heater hose and 3 hose clamps. A little wd40 on the inside of the hose will help it slide on easier. Fixed untill crappy aluminum tube rots out.
 

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Copper line set left over from an air conditioning install works for the line and I used hydronic pex tubing fittings for other spots.

Our 96 burb broke on Christmas Eve a few years ago
 
I don't know...... I replaced mine with the NAPA steel one a few years ago, after the stock one leaked, I broke it getting it out. Less than 10 bux as I recall. Was a real PIA to get the old one out, but it's been all good since.

Art
 
did it, fine.

I'll be doing mine soon. I'll get the napa 660-1700, as it has the right restriction.

PO replaced the OEM with another OEM! this one has silicone on it, though. After draining the H2O, I'll torch the aluminum a little, apply ice to the fitting, and smoothly remove the POS!

Of course I will.

REALLY.

I did as mentioned. no troubles :D I also had to replace the T fitting on the Hotter of the two heater lines, and made some reducers to match the factory ones in the fittings, so the heaters would still work. All covered in another thread, IIRC.
FYI
 
Mine came right out with no drama. I installed a brass AN fitting in its place.

Enginein8.jpg

You can just see the brass fitting for the heater hose to the water crossover. After realizing there was a restriction on the original snap in fitting, I installed a home made restrictor.

waterfitting.jpg

Here is the restrictor for the fitting. I took a brass reducer bushing and turned it down to a nice press fit into the fitting and then drilled it to the same size restriction hole as the original fitting. It works great, both heaters work as they should. Plus, it will never leak like the factory snap in fitting. Once you get use to AN fittings, you want to use them everywhere. They make it so easy to remove & replace the hose.
 
no my dad was helping me pull the motor and didnt realize that was a quick connect fitting (i didnt either at the time) and he tried to turn it with a wrench not very hard either and it snapped.
 
I took one out for ericinak the other day pushed sow into the fitting while I heated the housing and it came right off.
 
C'mon Matt, quit weenie-ing out and fix it B4 it breaks and strands you.

I just picture it breaking when trying to fix and me saying to myself as I watch antifreeze helplessly drip, "Should have left it alone." :)

I have the 5/8 Heater hose, and the barb. I keep it on board in the truck. So if it fails, I can then attempt the fix right then and there on the side of the road. So I am ready.
 
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