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Quick Disconnect Removal Poll

Share your experience with removal of T-Stat Quick Disconnect

  • Removed It successfully With a Socket

    Votes: 6 9.1%

  • Broke It with a Socket

    Votes: 7 10.6%

  • Removed it successfully with a wrench

    Votes: 16 24.2%

  • Broke It with a Wrench

    Votes: 12 18.2%

  • Never tried with above methods. Took Apart and broke it up safely instaed.

    Votes: 1 1.5%

  • Havn't tackled this yet. Thanks for doing this poll thread.

    Votes: 24 36.4%
  • Total voters
    66
vail426 said:
I installed a new one after I had to carve the broken pieces of the old one out of the coolant crossover. It was becoming leaky and the aluminum fitting had cauliflower growing on it. It was not a hard job - just slightly time consuming, as I removed the crossover for the carving operation. The new fitting is steel not aluminum.
Click to expand...

DITTO

Art
 
I just warmed mine up with a propane torch and it came right out. I replaced it with a barbed steel fitting and 1" hose and clamps.
 
Steeveo said:
I just warmed mine up with a propane torch and it came right out. I replaced it with a barbed steel fitting and 1" hose and clamps.
Click to expand...

I've had the parts for a while but haven't felt the need until now. I'm doing mine tomorrow and will follow this line of attack because, as I posted earlier on another thread, I've got an orange Stalactite hanging off mine. "Change is good" in this case.

PB blasted it a couple of times today and the torch is at the ready.
Paul
 
I have a fitting in my glovebox to replace my crappy fitting in the crossover, but I haven't tackled this project yet. The crossover i have on the engine on my stand has the fitting broke inside, so I'll get that one out first and if I have troubles with the one on my truck I will just swap the crossovers :D.
 
I'll be doing mine soon. I'll get the napa 660-1700, as it has the right restriction.

PO replaced the OEM with another OEM! this one has silicone on it, though. After draining the H2O, I'll torch the aluminum a little, apply ice to the fitting, and smoothly remove the POS!

Of course I will.

REALLY.
 
dangerousdave said:
I'll be doing mine soon. I'll get the napa 660-1700, as it has the right restriction.

PO replaced the OEM with another OEM! this one has silicone on it, though. After draining the H2O, I'll torch the aluminum a little, apply ice to the fitting, and smoothly remove the POS!

Of course I will.

REALLY.
Click to expand...

I'm not a metalurgist, but are you sure heating, the severly cooling an already questionably weak piece of aluminum is a good idea?
 
Can someone post a picture of this part so I know what you're talking about? I'm thinking of the aluminum pipe that comes into the turbo side of my dual t-stat housing. It has a connection where the pipe stabs into the other with a plastic barb that locks it into place. At my t-stat housing this attaches to a bronze barb that screws into the housing.
 
That was me who replaced it as it came with the '97 cooling upgrade kit I installed soon after I bought the truck back in '98. I don't recall what the original one was like. However, IMO the stab in connection to the left is also a POS. That is corny looking and I've had to replace it at least once. IMO this whole thing needs a mil spec version from Bill Heath.
 
YO, Matt

Matt Bachand said:
I'm not a metalurgist, but are you sure heating, the severly cooling an already questionably weak piece of aluminum is a good idea?
Click to expand...
:nono:

:rolleyes5:"I'll torch the aluminum a little, apply ice to the (pot metal)fitting, and smoothly remove the POS!"

No real stress on the aluminum (expensive part), only shock and awe on the OEM POS FITTING.

):h
 
Or try try MGW's way only to discover the Tstat housing is split at the connection point:mad2:
Wonderful day...not.
E-Bay $30 free shipping...oh well. Something to think about on the flight to Korea.
 
dangerousdave said:
:nono:

:rolleyes5:"I'll torch the aluminum a little, apply ice to the (pot metal)fitting, and smoothly remove the POS!"

No real stress on the aluminum (expensive part), only shock and awe on the OEM POS FITTING.

):h
Click to expand...

Only asking out of curiosity as I want to do the best method possible, I can't be down a few days.... big $$$ loss for me in missed work.
 
Paveltolz said:
Or try try MGW's way only to discover the Tstat housing is split at the connection point:mad2:
Wonderful day...not.
E-Bay $30 free shipping...oh well. Something to think about on the flight to Korea.
Click to expand...

You split the T-stat housing by trying to unscrew the fitting? Is that what your saying, after reading you're other thread, Can you share more details on how this is split?

Did it split by trying to undo the fitting?

Or was it already split?
 
Matt Bachand said:
You split the T-stat housing by trying to unscrew the fitting? Is that what your saying, after reading you're other thread, Can you share more details on how this is split?

Did it split by trying to undo the fitting?

Or was it already split?
Click to expand...

It snapped off at the housing. I'd used a the torch methode to warm up the housing but the sucker busted like it was on a perferated line.

Using a tap out tool, the sucker dug in and that was it. My fault.

Calling my flight. CU
 
I have been thinking about replacing mine with a pipe nipples and some hose, It was weeping when I pulled my intake, but only when I had it pulled to the side so I could remove the intake bolts. Otherwise I have'nt seen a drop when its bolted down.
 
mine started to leak after i did head gaskets. i used a torch to heat the aluminum and spun it out with a cresent. But i have also touched them and had them snap. I always use heat now.
 
I'm thinking of replacing mine with a brass 1/2" NPT to 5/8" barb. I had heard of some concern - either here, or elsewhere, about the heat from the turbo/engine - so would it be best to get another type of hose? Would it be best just to buy a bigger hose to insulate the 5/8" ID hose with? or wrap it with duct tape (the actual, aluminum duct tape used on metal duct work)?
 
Well let me put this way, I replaced mine 2 years or so ago with the aftermarket steel kind. Took it off the other day whilst doing something else and examined it closely not a hint of corrosion/degradation. Seems to me why reinvent the wheel have to reconfigure the hose etc when the aftermarket style works as others have posted here and in other disconnect threads.

Cheers
Nobby
 
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