Project FRANKENTRUCK 2nd Gen Ram / Cummins

[dbrannon79]

This site has a lot of real thinkers!
Thanks everyone!
I oversimplified the "Hold Open" with a sturdy cable bracket and a small wire tie to hold the cable in the open position. If i get in a panic situation to kill it, A good tug will break the wire tie. I did a simulated shutdown with it not running and the zip tie broke relatively easily. I keep a bunch in the console in case I want to use it as an anti theft device. They can get it to turn over and maybe even try to start but it won't go anywhere. lol.

Exhaust brake and Intake shutdown would kill it in a hurry, but might be pretty complex.
Diesel Tractor pull guys use air shutoff, so I went with that.

if those wire ties are made of plastic, the heat in the engine compartment alone will eventually weaken or melt them. that might give you a "surprise" situation at some point when it's unexpected.

you might even be able to set it up in a spring loaded way so it slaps shut like it would normally as it would in it's intended use. then rig up a solenoid that would lock it in the open position with the key on. on start up the default method is (works for theft deterrent too) key on, pull cable to open (solenoid holds it until key off), crank her up and be on your way. as soon as you shut the engine off with the key it automatically snaps shut pulling the cable handle in too. you can then use your ignition key as the emergency off shutdown. maybe even wire it in such a way that it also will snap shut if you have other issues like loosing oil pressure.

in this scenario the cable you have will also always get exercised so you know it's not trying to rust up locking open or closed a few years into service.

 

[J_dude]

if those wire ties are made of plastic, the heat in the engine compartment alone will eventually weaken or melt them. that might give you a "surprise" situation at some point when it's unexpected.

you might even be able to set it up in a spring loaded way so it slaps shut like it would normally as it would in it's intended use. then rig up a solenoid that would lock it in the open position with the key on. on start up the default method is (works for theft deterrent too) key on, pull cable to open (solenoid holds it until key off), crank her up and be on your way. as soon as you shut the engine off with the key it automatically snaps shut pulling the cable handle in too.

in this scenario the cable you have will also always get exercised so you know it's not trying to rust up locking open or closed a few years into service.

My TDI has a similar setup, vacuum actuated butterfly valve that functions exactly the way you describe, called the “Anti Shudder Valve” as it helps eliminate that classic diesel slow-down shudder when you turn the key off.

 

[Will L.]

When we spoke of this before for those that missed it

Runaway shut off valve (positive air flow valve)

Engine run away is not something a lot of 6.2/6.5, dmax, owners face. But once someone faces it or something similar like WOT pmd or bad fuel shut off solenoid- it becomes more of a consideration. As soon as most people experience it first hand- they either mandate it on all their diesel...

www.thetruckstop.us

 

[J_dude]

When we spoke of this before for those that missed it

Runaway shut off valve (positive air flow valve)

Engine run away is not something a lot of 6.2/6.5, dmax, owners face. But once someone faces it or something similar like WOT pmd or bad fuel shut off solenoid- it becomes more of a consideration. As soon as most people experience it first hand- they either mandate it on all their diesel...

www.thetruckstop.us

Well that was an interesting read, was definitely worth it even if just for the turbo hickey comment

 

[Frankentruck]

if those wire ties are made of plastic, the heat in the engine compartment alone will eventually weaken or melt them. that might give you a "surprise" situation at some point when it's unexpected.

you might even be able to set it up in a spring loaded way so it slaps shut like it would normally as it would in it's intended use. then rig up a solenoid that would lock it in the open position with the key on. on start up the default method is (works for theft deterrent too) key on, pull cable to open (solenoid holds it until key off), crank her up and be on your way. as soon as you shut the engine off with the key it automatically snaps shut pulling the cable handle in too. you can then use your ignition key as the emergency off shutdown. maybe even wire it in such a way that it also will snap shut if you have other issues like loosing oil pressure.

in this scenario the cable you have will also always get exercised so you know it's not trying to rust up locking open or closed a few years into service.

The wire tie is through the cable knob inside the truck.
I do like the concept of using something like a fuel shutoff solenoid to hold the cable open. I am not a big fan of electrical things that can fail without notice (hence currently messing with a 12 valve mechanical dinosaur), but I do like the concept... thank you.

 

[Frankentruck]

When we spoke of this before for those that missed it

Runaway shut off valve (positive air flow valve)

Engine run away is not something a lot of 6.2/6.5, dmax, owners face. But once someone faces it or something similar like WOT pmd or bad fuel shut off solenoid- it becomes more of a consideration. As soon as most people experience it first hand- they either mandate it on all their diesel...

www.thetruckstop.us

Check out BD Diesel's shutdown valve options. After I built mine I saw those. They look pretty robust.

 

[Frankentruck]

UPDATE.. After replacing the 5x.013 injectors with the DDP stage 4's (I know they are overkill for where my setup is curently), I've had to adjust my everyday AFC Live setting to all of the way down, in order to improve smoke control. I haven't tweaked the pre-boost screw or changed to a stiffer AFC spring, to see how they change things, but am thinking abut it. The truck feels the same at this lower setting as it did adjusted up a little with the smaller injectors. I've found keeping the truck above 1,700 rpm when pulling hills makes a huge difference in EGT. At 2000 rpm with Overdrive OFF I'm running 55mph. On flat ground EGT settles to around 500*. At 2000 rpm with OD ON, I'm running 80 and EGT settles around 700*.
I went to RockyTop Diesel Shootout this past weekend which is about 150 miles and through the mountains to get to I-75 then I-40. With overdrive on and driving normally I saw up to 1200* EGT and exhaust was pretty smoky. With Overdrive off I barely hit 1000* and that was accelerating up a hill. Mileage the whole trip running with traffic was hand calculated at 17.2mpg. I lost about 1mpg with the big injectors, which is better than expected.
I'm planning to hit a drag strip in the next few weeks just to find out where the truck really is performance wise, before I switch to the bigger pump and add timing.

 

[Frankentruck]

I haven't posted in a while.
I noticed a little different turbo noise before heading to Rocky Top Diesel Shootout. I pulled the interstage intake pipe off and discovered some traces of oil. Closer inspection revealed the compressor end of the hi pressure turbo had more radial play than it should have. The atmosphere pair were fine, and the axial end play was good on all 3. Instead of pulling it apart, I buttoned it back up. The 3 hour trip each way was uneventful, and I got some more feel on driveability. I then took it to a Drag strip a couple hours from home to make some test & tune passes just to have a feel for where it is before the next series of upgrades. Unfortunately it was a special event, and no hard tires were allowed. Since I had driven there just to test & tune they offered to let me make 1 pass after everything was over. I got on the track at 1:am. I chose not to leave very hard because I didn't want to try finding a ride / tow that far that late. Long story short the time slip read: 2.0sec 60ft / 8.71 1/8 mile @ 80.1 mph. With a now 7000lb truck that started with 160 flywheel hp I wasn't insanely disappointed. My buddy used my phone to video but stood behind the starting line. After 3 seconds everything disappeared behind the smoke from the bigger injectors. My inside video to watch the gauges turned off before I got to the starting line, so no data to report.
It's getting the new upgrades that I've had in boxes now.... Farrell built 180 P pump, 20* of timing (instead of 17) Tappet Cover, Timing Cover, Adjustable timing gear, street conical valve springs, and better crankcase ventilation.
I also took the time to rebuild the hi pressure turbo and swap in a Mamba 5+5 style 67/76 turbine wheel in place of the normal 10 blade 67/76.
We will see what happens.

 

[J_dude]

Beautiful! Nice to hear an update.
Curious, what’s the adjustable timing gear all about?

 

[Frankentruck]

Beautiful! Nice to hear an update.
Curious, what’s the adjustable timing gear all about?

Cummins engines have fixed timing set by the relationship of the pump orientation to the timing gear. The pump shaft and gear ID are tapered and press fit by the pump gear nut. Changing the timing requires breaking the press fit, Index the engine to the desired timing change, (or remove fuel lines, and #1 Delivery valve on the pump and checking with a dial indicator against a table for your pump), getting the tapers meticulously clean, and pull the gear back on with 144ft lbs without moving anything.
With the adjustable gearm you just remove part of the cover, loosen 6 bolts, and in my case remove a small stop bolt. Then rotate the pump one way or another until a pair of stop bolt holes (that align every 2 degrees), line up at the timing you want. Then torque the 6 bolts back down and replace the cover. The adjustable gear system also uses a woodruff key to the pump shaft preventing it from slipping.

 

[J_dude]

Cummins engines have fixed timing set by the relationship of the pump orientation to the timing gear. The pump shaft and gear ID are tapered and press fit by the pump gear nut. Changing the timing requires breaking the press fit, Index the engine to the desired timing change, (or remove fuel lines, and #1 Delivery valve on the pump and checking with a dial indicator against a table for your pump), getting the tapers meticulously clean, and pull the gear back on with 144ft lbs without moving anything.
With the adjustable gearm you just remove part of the cover, loosen 6 bolts, and in my case remove a small stop bolt. Then rotate the pump one way or another until a pair of stop bolt holes (that align every 2 degrees), line up at the timing you want. Then torque the 6 bolts back down and replace the cover. The adjustable gear system also uses a woodruff key to the pump shaft preventing it from slipping.

Now that is cool!
Means you have to pull the case cover off though unless one has a sexy billet one like yours eh?

 

[Frankentruck]

Yes. If you had a stock cover, the adjustable gear might even take longer to adjust timing. Although it would be less apt to slip, or move when re-tightening the nut (which are fairly common occurrences)