tanman_2006
Just a farm kid...
Looks really good!
source unknown
source unknown
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Poor Boy Special 6.5 Refresh
- Thread starter bowtiebutler956
- Start date
btfarm
America First!
Jorge6.5
Well-Known Member
Great job! I like
bowtiebutler956
Active Member
Thanks guys, its easy to do nice work when you really enjoy what your working on. I only wish I would have had the extra money to upgrade to a later model GEP engine like the ones Ted's sells. It would be nice to not have to worry about cracked blocks, but I have to say this old 6.5 runs like a new one. I'm very pleased, and looking forward to adding some extra power in the future.
I put my kids to washing the truck today, and we had a great time soaking each other down with the water hose as well. I also painted the wheels black, polished up the center caps, and reinstalled them. I'll go get insurance for it Monday, so I can get it tagged. I'm also going to try, and get some used tires for now, but I'm hoping to buy a set of these recaps soon. http://www.tirerecappers.com/tires/lt-28575x16-backwoods-overstock-special
I know they don't have a perfect track record, but you can't beat the price, and if you buy 4 the shipping is free. I'm thinking 285's would look great on the truck. Thanks, and here are a couple pics.
Matt
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tanman_2006
Just a farm kid...
Doesn't look too bad at all.
source unknown
source unknown
btfarm
America First!
Looks good. It'll look even better with the new tires
Sent from my SCH-I535
Sent from my SCH-I535
The condenser dirt build up photos also belong in the reference library to point new owners at. The pictures get the point across that no one understands till they see it themselves.
Context of my comment is the funny part.
I wouldn't be able to work up the courage to start your truck looking that good. (With my luck there would be a bad or loose oil line.) You see under my hood I am happy when it doesn't look like a new Texas oil well after they strike oil and the gusher goes off. A highly polished engine under my hood is diesel oil black. I even painted the front of my trailer black when the oil cooler exploded at 55 MPH due to an elk. Never mind the soot coatings... on the trailer and under the hood when the manifold warped and leaked. Typical look under my hood.
Polish and painting my engine would just be heartbreaking.
pronghorntractorworks
Member
Looks like mine. I call it "work clothes".
bowtiebutler956
Active Member
Your definitely highly skilled in the art of getting them good, and greasy WarWagon!The condenser dirt build up photos also belong in the reference library to point new owners at. The pictures get the point across that no one understands till they see it themselves.
Context of my comment is the funny part.
Typical look under my hood.
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Polish and painting my engine would just be heartbreaking.
I bet after a few minutes of doing a repair under that hood, you end up a bit on the greasy side as well. :hihi: I didn't have the extra cash to replace the oil cooler lines, so who knows, maybe I'll have some oily pics to post up before long. Hopefully I'll replace the lines before then. Any particular reason your CDR tube is disconnected? Can I put those dirty rad pics in the reference section myself, or does a staff member have to do it?
Matt
bowtiebutler956
Active Member
I put about 100 miles on the truck today, and although I do intend to eventually upgrade the cooling fan, I have to say that I'm quite impressed with the modded oe fan clutch. I currently have a 180 t-stat, HO water pump, and the modded oe clutch. The fan engages at about 1/3 the way on the temp gauge, which is about 1/4 inch before the 210 mark on the gauge. It roars under the hood, untill it gets back down to about 1/4 on the gauge. It was 100 degrees outside today, and the a/c was on at all times. It may be coming on a little to early, but I'll take that any day over waiting till between 220-230 for one to really kick in.
Matt
Matt
bowtiebutler956
Active Member
Quick update. The 6.5 is running perfectly, not even a hiccup. I'm used to having to deal with some sort of a gremlins after a project like this, but not this one.
I've still been working on cleaning it up, because even with money being tight, my labor is free. I completely removed the seats, and carpet from the truck, so I could give them a proper cleaning. Its cleaning up quite well, and I'll pull the door panels tomorrow, as they are in need of new fasteners. I'll give them a good cleaning as well. Here are a couple pics.
Matt
I've still been working on cleaning it up, because even with money being tight, my labor is free. I completely removed the seats, and carpet from the truck, so I could give them a proper cleaning. Its cleaning up quite well, and I'll pull the door panels tomorrow, as they are in need of new fasteners. I'll give them a good cleaning as well. Here are a couple pics.
Matt
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Diesel Nut
Member
Interior looks great. Almost as if it came from the factory yesterday.
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
While working on the interior . . . Realize that money is a concern, but might consider adding sound deadener under the carpet while it is out. It helped a smidge on the Burb, but not enough so I am adding a FTE to the exhaust.
bowtiebutler956
Active Member
Thanks, I thought it turned out really nice for what it is. Its amazing what a really good bath can do for them.
Thats a good idea Jay, but as you can see by the pics, the interior is already back together. Thanks
Matt
bowtiebutler956
Active Member
Just thought I'd give a quick update on the 6.5. I have 1500 miles on the engine now, and it runs great. It always has good power, holds great oil pressure, no oil leaks, no blowby, and the oil level hasn't gone down at all. I couldn't be happier with the engine. However, I do have one issue I'm going to have to deal with. I was pulling about a 6500lb trailer the other day (18ft car hauler with a 86 chevy C10 on it), and my temp started going up. This truck generally runs about 195 unloaded with the AC on. Our temps have stayed over 100 now for awhile. Anyway, the truck got to about 220, and I shut off the AC, and within about 2-3 minutes it came down to 210, and stayed there. At 70mph, loaded, running just over 2000rpm, its running a steady 3-4lbs boost. I've already ordered an EGT gauge that should be here tomorrow, or the day after. I also ordered a steel 9 blade fan to replace my 6 blade, and a new severe duty clutch that I will be modifying for early engage.
My truck currently has a 1 core (about 1.25in thick) radiator in it. I know it should have the thicker 2 core rad, but the correct one is almost $400 at Orielly auto. I found this radiator on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/400751555755?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Its an all aluminum 2 core, and the price seems really good. Has anybody used one of these before? Did it work well?
I already have a later model high flow water pump on the truck. Thanks
Matt
My truck currently has a 1 core (about 1.25in thick) radiator in it. I know it should have the thicker 2 core rad, but the correct one is almost $400 at Orielly auto. I found this radiator on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/400751555755?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Its an all aluminum 2 core, and the price seems really good. Has anybody used one of these before? Did it work well?
I already have a later model high flow water pump on the truck. Thanks
Matt
Your definitely highly skilled in the art of getting them good, and greasy WarWagon!
Can I put those dirty rad pics in the reference section myself, or does a staff member have to do it?
Matt
CDR hose blew out as well as the driver's side valve cover gasket. Chugged like a steam locomotive out of the oil fill.
The factory fan and clutch resulted in this when towing:
High temps ---> Fan clutch gave it up ---> Radiator cap (defective) Suddenly let off pressure ---> engine quit running for a moment then continued to run. It ran another 7000 miles then the cracked piston burned through.
The engine went to the scrap yard with the worthless 6 blade fan and worthless clutch.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Yup, mount that new fan and fan clutch asap. Even if you have to wait on the new radiator. No experience with that seller. Aluminum is #2, copper is best. Unless someone speaks up against it get that one.
That egt gauge will tell you when your about to get hot almost every time...
That egt gauge will tell you when your about to get hot almost every time...
bowtiebutler956
Active Member
Why do I have to be so cheap?! I ordered my 9 blade fan from a salvage yard on ebay for $30, even though I could have bought a new one for $55, because the fan isn't really a wear item. The listing was just a generic photo, so I didn't see pics of the fan I was buying. The fan arrived damaged, with 2 bent blades! :mad2: It wasn't from shipping either, as the box was in great shape. I don't know why anyone would ship something like this! I've opened a case with the seller, so hopefully he'll get me refunded quickly, but in the meantime I guess I'll order a new one. Pics below.
Matt
Matt
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Will L.
Well-Known Member
Yup, id give that dude bad ratings. He is trying to rip people off, or doesn't know a thing. Either way get back your $ and keep that clown from rippin off the next guy.
bowtiebutler956
Active Member
Well, on a more upbeat note, my gauges came in today. They aren't the most ideal gauges for my truck, but the price was right. The boost gauge was designed for a gasser, as it has vacuum as well, but it functions fine. The EGT gauge is working well, and the highest temp I've seen was 1100, and that was a wide open run, and that temp was seen at around 100mph, and 11psi boost foot to the floor. I was amazed to see how fast the exhaust temp climbs when the throttle is mashed. I would have liked to install triple gauge pillar pod, but this is what I could afford, and it works. Here are a few pics of the install, and a couple pics of the gauges while under power. Thanks
Matt
Matt
