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Poor Boy Special 6.5 Refresh

I got the engine back into the truck today. I wrapped the pass side exhaust manifold with header wrap, as the truck was missing the heat shield when I got it. I didn't want to cook the rubber injector return lines, so I did this instead. Hopefully, I'll get it fired up in the next couple days. Thanks

Matt
 

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You can make an oil pump primer from an old gear drive
OR
pull the hot wire on IP and just crank the engine til you see oil pressure on the gauge then fire it up.
 
I noticed your missing your firewall insulation. Kinda surprised you didn't remedy that before you put the engine back in. NICE looking engine BTW
 
You can make an oil pump primer from an old gear drive
OR
pull the hot wire on IP and just crank the engine til you see oil pressure on the gauge then fire it up.

I thought about making a priming tool Leroy, but decided that this engine should be good, and primed by the time I've finished cranking on it, trying to get all the air out of the fuel system. I already ran the oil pump, which filled the filter, just didn't get the oil top side.

I noticed your missing your firewall insulation. Kinda surprised you didn't remedy that before you put the engine back in. NICE looking engine BTW

The old insulation was disintegrating. If you touched it, it crumbled. I don't know if GM still makes these pieces, and I'd be afraid to find out how much they cost, if they did. I thought about using some reflective heat tape, but I didn't. Probably should have. I'm not worried about the noise level in the cab, but I am a little concerned about the heat. I'll heat wrap the down pipe, and hope I'll be ok. :eek:15:

Matt
 
I got a couple more hours in on the truck today. I don't know what happened to the a/c condensor in the past, but a large part of it had the fins laid over, and I knew air wasn't going to flow very well thru that, not to mention, all the crud behind the oil cooler. I started to try, and straighten the fins out, but it wasn't going well, so I called the auto parts to check the price on a new one, and was surprised that my price was only $65. So. it got a new condenser. Thanks to a fellow member here, I have a good used radiator on the way. Thanks Nick.
If I had a little more time today, I think it would have been running. Maybe tomorrow, depending on how busy I am. Here are a couple pics. Thanks

Matt
 

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Good move. Next time I have to do major work on my a/c I think i'll look at Vintage air or equivilent options.
Seems like expansion valve systems do better??
 
If it is not too late . . . A remote mount for the oil filter will make life in the future a *lot* easier. You will thank yourself at the next filger change. Am sure that Leroy can help out with either a single or dual mount setup.

And, nice color choice :D :thumbsup:
 
Good move. Next time I have to do major work on my a/c I think i'll look at Vintage air or equivilent options.
Seems like expansion valve systems do better??
I've never noticed an expansion valve doing any better than an orifice tube system. Actually, expansion valves get on my nerves. I take care of a fleet of vehicles, and the majority of them are 15 passenger vans, with dual a/c's. The front evap core runs an orifice tube, while the rear has an expansion valve. Quite frequently when I fix a leak in the system (o-ring, hose, etc.), and recharge the system that the front blows cold, but not the rear, because the expansion valve gets plugged on recharge. It seems silly, that a guy should have to flush the a/c line going to the expansion valve, when doing a simple repair to the system. Expansion valves just seem to finicky to me.

Matt
 
IT LIVES! I ran a jumper to the lift pump to prime the fuel filter, and opened the T valve until it had a steady flow of fuel. IT only had the 2 hardest to get to glow plugs installed, as I left the other 6 out for bleeding the fuel system. Within 45 seconds of cranking that silly diesel tried to start on 2 cylinders! I put the other 6 glows back in, and it fired off immediately, and only ran rough for about the first 10 seconds until it finished bleeding. It runs fantastic, and sounds great. The sound of the video below doesn't do it any justice, as my cheap little camera never has good audio. I let the engine run for over an hour, and at operating temperature in drive, it holds just under 40 psi oil pressure. I can't wait to take it for a drive. I just have to wait for my radiator to arrive, as well as the correct oil fill tube. The oil fill on it currently is from my van, and its to tall for the hood to close. After running awhile I checked for leaks, and everything is nice, and dry.:)
I decided to check the posi rearend out, and as you can see in one of the pics below, it works quite well.:hihi:

Here is the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_RVIZIjhAg&feature=youtu.be
 

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Way too nice looking for me... I'd have to polish the engine every time I shut it off. :hihi:
 
Way too nice looking for me... I'd have to polish the engine every time I shut it off. :hihi:

I know it won't always look this good, but there's just something about opening the hood of a crusty looking old vehicle, and having it look like you opened a jewelry box.:smilewinkgrin: Not to mention oil leaks will be easy to see.

Thanks for all the kind words guys. My radiator will be here tomorrow, but I did drive it some today, and it did great. I couldn't help it, I just had to drive it! :rofl: My shop is out in the country, so I have lots of back roads. The transmission has all its gears, and the lockup works perfectly. I think I'm going to install a Transgo HD-2 kit in the tranny, as it shifts to soft for my liking. My G30 van shifted more firmly. The power felt decent, but I have the wastegate set very loose, as I'm going to let it break in before pushing it very hard, and I don't have gauges yet. I was expecting more hassle from this 6.5, but it just rens great. When I got to the shop this morning, it stated immediatly (after glow plugs of course), and just idled rock solid. I was all smiles!

Matt
 
Quick update. I you recall, I said I had the TM set very loose, but I had no idea how much boost it was making. I have a vacuum gauge tool in my shop, but I never paid attention to the fact it reads 0-10 psi boost as well. So I hooked it up to the truck to see, and I was making a whopping 2 psi boost!:lol: Anyway, I turned up the TM untill I was making 8 psi. That reading was taken with converter locked up in OD at about 75 mph and 3/4 throttle. I figure that will keep me out of trouble untill the rings are broke in, and I have an EGT gauge. Cruise PSI is between 2-3. There was a noticable difference in part throttle power, when I turned the TM up from its max PSI of 2.
I now have the correct radiator, and shroud back in the truck, and I charged the a/c. This truck has a good, cold a/c in it. Before I install the grill back on the truck, I swapped the trans cooler from my van over to the truck as well. Here are a couple pics. Thanks

Matt
 

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