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Parts supplier

KrisML

KrisML

Active Member
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132
Location
Space coast, FL
So after the runaway issue and not really trusting the 6.5 block in my truck to another rebuild, would be #4 for it. I've started looking for parts to build the 6.2 block that I have. Block has already been machined .020 over and bearing a few years back. A quick cleaning and it'll be usable. In my search for a decent price on pistons and such I found this place in Orlando, http://mrengine3.com/index.html . Their price for standard .020 pistons is $30 each. Most places I've been finding the for almost double that. So while I want to save money, I'm kinda leary when one place has something that much cheaper then everyone else. They have name brand parts so I'm kinda torn.
So has anyone on here heard of them before? Or should I look else where. I'd live to pick up a Teds engine, but not sure I can swing that cost right now.

Thanks.
 
I know you said the machining on the block has been done but by the time you pay for pistons and everything else that you need, you probably won't be but several hundred away from a takeout Optimizer.

Did you find the cause of the runaway?
 
You're probably right about not being far off from a take out if I get parts from a good know supply house. That's why I'm debating if this place is any good. Course the phrase "you get what you pay for" keeps running through my mind when I compare prices.

I haven't found the "smoking gun" of why. But it's looking either the turbo seals went or a seal in the injection pump. I'm leaning more towards the ip since there is fuel mixed in the oil.
 
Sorry no help on the pistons.

What IP did you have. A broken governor could be ip runaway, but would be easily seen opening up the ip.

Most runaways are engine oil- turbo, rings, valve guides.

I agree also on take out optimizer vs rebuild requiring machine work and new pistons. No cracked mains, less head cracks, stronger crank,etc is worth a lot to me. If it's just rering then ok, but your already this far in after machinist costs.

You really need to find a couple satisfied buyers or skip those pistons and buy what's proven.
 
Not meaning to hijack this thread, but, after how many miles should the turbo seals be changed ?
My truck has 240,000 + on it and I am sure it is the original turbo.
 
ak diesel driver said:
Pretty easy job assuming the center section is good. Kit's about,$50
Click to expand...
I have done a couple of turbo seal jobs, been a long time though, it was on the bigger engines. I think one was a Cat and the other a 400 Cummins, been to much bridge under the water, just can not rememer the details. LOL
 
Will L. said:
Sorry no help on the pistons.

What IP did you have. A broken governor could be ip runaway, but would be easily seen opening up the ip.

Most runaways are engine oil- turbo, rings, valve guides.

I agree also on take out optimizer vs rebuild requiring machine work and new pistons. No cracked mains, less head cracks, stronger crank,etc is worth a lot to me. If it's just rering then ok, but your already this far in after machinist costs.

You really need to find a couple satisfied buyers or skip those pistons and buy what's proven.
Click to expand...

I don't have the exact numbers in front of me but I do know the pump is a .033 plunger db2 with the fuel screw turned up 1/2 a turn. It's never given me any problems before but I'm going to have it checked out before reusing it.

Yeah I haven't really found anyone who's used that company. So think I'll stay with one that has a good rep.

The take does seem the way to go. Now to just figure out getting the money for it.

Course I did find this. https://jacksonville.craigslist.org/pts/d/gm-62-diesel-th400-and-case/6279343838.html
I could use that engine if good as a stop gap for the time being, say a year or so. But it would mean doing two engine swaps.
 
For $200 I would grab that, and store it in the garage or backyard, Then relist the jeep parts. Probably why I have to do a parts purge every 5 years- haha.
Seriously though, good price.
 
I would definitely jump on that. $200 is a deal for that setup. You could sell the axles and frame for double your money to the right person most likely. If it's a NP205 t-case you could double your money or more around here just to the rock crawling competition guys or the mud dragster guys. I seen a NP205 go for $600 about a month ago when me and my wife went to a off-road park called The Gulches that's about 3 miles away from my house.
 
Oh, the was so focused on the killer deal for $200 that I forgot to say about the IP- just pull the top cover off and look inside to see if the governor assembly is together correctly or not as in -Is there broken pieces laying around in there?

The other question is- did someone just turn up the fuel screw by going through the top and put it together wrong- Then it ran away the after getting started?
This is a real possibility. So much so that I never recommend turning up the Screw by going through the top, I only say to go through the little side plate.

If you are not going to buy that $200 deal, you ought to say so, that way one of the guys/gal here can jump on that. I know guys that would have bought it just for the trans/Xfercase and scrap metal the rest including the engine.
 
Will L. said:
Oh, the was so focused on the killer deal for $200 that I forgot to say about the IP- just pull the top cover off and look inside to see if the governor assembly is together correctly or not as in -Is there broken pieces laying around in there?

The other question is- did someone just turn up the fuel screw by going through the top and put it together wrong- Then it ran away the after getting started?
This is a real possibility. So much so that I never recommend turning up the Screw by going through the top, I only say to go through the little side plate.

If you are not going to buy that $200 deal, you ought to say so, that way one of the guys/gal here can jump on that. I know guys that would have bought it just for the trans/Xfercase and scrap metal the rest including the engine.
Click to expand...
I turned up the fuel screw. I went through the port on the side of the pump. I'll have to pull the top cover to see if something broke.

I left a message for the person with that chassis/engine this morning. Just waiting to hear back from them.
 
Will L. said:
So the IP is probably not the issue.
Click to expand...

It might be. I just finally drained the oil to check. There was enough fuel mixed in that it filled an empty 5 gallon bucket to within 3 inches of the top. So lot more fuel then I thought at first. Only suppose to have 8 quarts and she dumped out around 4.5 gallons.
 
I know diesel itself is like a lubricant in its own way kinda but with it running through the journals and everything else in the engine at such a high rpm. I would inspect everything really good before I reused it or sold it.
 
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