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P400 in the Burb install

Going over the stock 1.5 ratio has proven to cause valve contact, P400 valve rescission is about 1/2 that of GM - GEP.. I don't remember what ratio you went with...

Crank the motor now and hold a piece of paper close to the intake runners, if the paper gets blown away from the port the compression is being pushed past a valve for what ever reason..

Did you check valve - piston clearance with putty when you put the motor together?
 
Well I just ran it and cracked open all of the injectors, I was really expecting #6 to be missing but it's not firing #1 and #6. as soon as the fans get all the exhaust out of my shop I am going to install my old original stock injectors 1 at a time and run it.
 
Twisted Steel Performance said:
Going over the stock 1.5 ratio has proven to cause valve contact, P400 valve rescission is about 1/2 that of GM - GEP.. I don't remember what ratio you went with...

Crank the motor now and hold a piece of paper close to the intake runners, if the paper gets blown away from the port the compression is being pushed past a valve for what ever reason..

Did you check valve - piston clearance with putty when you put the motor together?
Click to expand...

I think the rocker ratio is 1:6 or 1:7 and I did check valve to piston clearances multiple times, so much that I know I put different pushrods in it and I am sure they were shorter than stock. I'd have to look back through my thread and see if I posted that info.
 
Well I installed the old stock injector in the # 1 cyl and ran, still the same, then I swapped the #2 injector that I know was firing to the # 1 cyl and put the #1 cyl injector in the #2 cyl and ran, same results. I didn't mess with # 8 yet since I'm thinking there may be an issue with the pump.
 
spdgofast said:
Well I just ran it and cracked open all of the injectors, I was really expecting #6 to be missing but it's not firing #1 and #6. as soon as the fans get all the exhaust out of my shop I am going to install my old original stock injectors 1 at a time and run it.
Click to expand...

This was supposed to read #1 and #8 is not firing
 
I didnt catch you ssking about the smoke before the video post.

your are talking about 2 different issues here.

You already started it- so with valve strike / pressure on intake side concerns.
Do a full compression test NOW.
Do EACTLY as Chris describes.

This is WAY more crucial than fueling issues. You might be pulling heads. Don’t do more damage.

After that is done. Then look at injector situation. There is a reason i said crack each injectors and listen for difference first. Swapping out old injectors one at a time is a bad method of doing it. I need to type a book to expalin why. Just crack one at a time while Idling. The one that sounds different than the others is the cylinder in question.

I need to go back and reread your valvetrain alterations in a bit...
 
I did crack each individual injector one at a time while idling and there was no change when I cracked open #1 and #8 then I installed a original injector in the # 1 cyl and it still didn't fire #1 then I put the #2 injector that I know fired into the # 1 cyl and put the #1 injector that wasn't firing into the #2 cyl and the miss stayed in the # 1 cyl. I also did the paper test on all of the intake ports and they all only pulled the paper into the port no pressure coming out of the intake ports. I also ran compression on #1 and # 2 cyl and they where the same but the tester I have doesn't read accurate but I would trust it to be equal or consistant from cyl to cyl. I don't believe there is any engine damage, it ran fine when I removed the pump and now it doesn't fire on #1 and # 8 cylinders, I believe the issue is in the pump but I could be wrong but I'll bet $100.00 that if I run compression with the correct gage that every cyl would be within spec.
 
1 and 8 are side by side on the pump . Are you sure the lines , on the pump , are in the correct locations ?
 
I wished it could be that simple, I've checked at least 6 times the #1 and #8 lines are connected to the correct ports on the IP.
 

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You mean swap the #1 and #8 lines on the pump? For one I would probably have to force the lines to that position, they are already fitting the ports that they are connected to. I guess I shouldn't have sold that spare DB2 that I had. I should have put the 5.9 Cummins I had in the POS.
 
Well it's something to do with 1&8, could be the IP but a line in the wrong place would be more likely just thinking about it is all... I guess if you don't feel a line is wrong the only thing it could be is the IP... I find it hard to believe the IP is wrong inside due to how it is made, it turns in the firing order internally but anything is possible...
 
I do know a couple lines will seem to fit several different places, I've had them fool me before..

Guess your next step is send the IP back...

I know it's a pain but myself would remove all the lines and start over installing them, I'm not saying their is anything wrong and I have no reason to doubt your ability, heck I doubt mine sometimes, but it does sound like a line is crossed...
 
I don't like doing things twice that's why I triple check and quadrupole check my work, I quadruple check before I remove the tape off of the cylinder head intakes before I fire up the engine so I don't have a worm clamp or anything land on top of a piston and I have run my engines without a intake multiple times without any negative effects. Therefore the intake only gets bolted on once after a test run. I will check the injector lines for probably the 6th time and I'll have a 100 dollar bill stuck to my forehead for the taking if I'm wrong.
 
Don't mistake me for anything, I'm only making observations and suggestions to maybe help save removing the IP and sending it back not insisting you missed something...
 
The way it missed and started to smoke worse,when you give it more throttle, sounds like retarded timing. I would also be worried about the custom fit pump plungers.
 
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